Category Archives: how to make cold process soap

Jun
26

Soap Making Terms


This entry was posted in cold process soap, cold process soap scents, cold process soap vs melt and pour soap, free soap recipes, handcrafted soap, hot vs cold process soap, how to make cold process soap, melt and pour soap, Natures Garden, soap, soap fragrance, soap making problems, Soap making supplies, soap recipe, soap scent, soapmaking, wholesale fragrance oils and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

Soap Making Terms

If you want to learn about different soaping methods and get help for potential problems, then it helps to know common soap making terms. Whether you are a beginner or experienced, you are likely to come across something new with your batches at least once. So, we are here to help you understand what to do and how to solve any soap-making issues.

Soap Making Terms: How Much Fragrance Oil Can I Add to Soap?

While you should always check the usage rate for each individual fragrance, the maximum that we recommend is 5%. Sometimes you can a scent where the IFRA sheet allows more and you can do more if you’d like. After you know the usage rate, you just need to do some simple multiplication to figure out how much scent you need.

Formula: Weight of Soap x Usage Rate = Weight of Fragrance Oil
Example: 912 grams of soap x 0.05 (which is a 5% usage rate) = 45.6 grams of fragrance

Soap Making Terms: Why Did My Soap Turn Brown?

Often fragrance oils that contains a high amount of Vaniilin will turn soap brown. Also, the color will be a darker brown with scented oils with higher amounts of Vanillin. We can use Vanilla White Color Stabilizer to reduce these effects and still use the scent. Since this ingredient is added to provide a vanilla scent, strong vanilla fragrance oils will almost always turn soap brown without the color stabilizer.

Soap Making Terms: Can I Use Essential Oils in Soap Making?

Yes, essential oils can be used to scent soap. We find that essential oils hold up better in MP soap than in soap made from scratch. This is because the saponification process can cook off the essential oil, which doesn’t have middle notes to anchor the scent. You may have some scent after the soaps cure, but it won’t be as strong as it is in MP soap.

Soap Making Terms: How Much Essential Oil Can I Use in Soap?

This can be different for each essential oil, so you will need to check the IFRA sheet for the usage rate. Then, you can figure out how much you need using the same method as you would for fragrance oils.

Soap Making Terms: How Do You Make Soap White?

You can add titanium dioxide to soaps to make them white. In fact, many of our white soap bases use this ingredient. If you wanted, you could use this ingredient to turn your clear soaps to white.

Soap Making Terms: What is Melt and Pour Soap Making?Soap Making Terms: What is Melt and Pour Soap Making?

Another option for soap making is melt and pour soap. This method starts with a soap base that has already gone through the saponification process. So, you cut need to cut and melt the amount your need before you are ready to add colorants, fragrance, or herbs. Then, you can pour the melted soap into a mold and spray the top with rubbing alcohol. As soon as the soap is hardened, it is ready to use!

Soap Making Terms: How Much Melt and Pour Soap Will I Need for My Mold?

For each ounce by volume in your mold you will need 31 grams of soap. Say the soap mold will hold 16 ounces, you will need 496 grams of soap

Formula: Constant Value for Soap Needed to Fill Mold x Volume of Mold = Weight of Soap
Example:
31 grams per ounce x 16 ounce mold = 196 grams of MP soap

Soap Making Terms: How Long Should Melt and Pour Soap Stay in the Mold?

This can vary based on the size of soap you are creating. Smaller soaps will take less time compared to bigger soaps. Just make sure that they are hardened all the way before you remove them. Also, you should be able to feel that the mold is no longer warm to touch.

Soap Making Terms: How Do I Get My Melt and Pour Soap Out of the Mold?

While you should be able to hold your molds upside down and lightly push, sometimes they get stuck. If you place your soaps in the refrigerator for a short amount of time, this should make it easier for you to remove your mp soap.

Soap Making Terms: How Do I Get Fingerprints Off My Melt and Pour Soap?

Sometimes when you are removing your soaps from the mold, you can transfer a fingerprint. Just use some rubbing alcohol to dampen a cotton swab and  gently swab the fingerprint. It should begin to fade as you do this.

Soap Making Terms: Can Melt and Pour Soap Be Used Right Away?

Of course! The saponification process is already complete before you get your soap base. So, there is no active lye to worry about. This means that you can use your soaps as soon as they harden.

Soap Making Terms: Why Is My Melt and Pour Soap Sweating?

There are a few reasons why your soap would sweat. First, it could be due to adding too much oil. Whether it is fragrance oil or carrier oil, the soap can only hold on to so much before the oil begins to leak out to create beads on the surface. More often, it is due to the soap drawing moisture from the air. Since your soap base uses vegetable glycerin, a humectant, it will draw moisture to it. Although this is great for you skin, it can lead to your soap sweating . However, you can prevent the latter by wrapping your soap as soon as it comes out of the mold. This way it can’t pull moisture from the air.

 

Soap Making Terms: What is Hot Process Soap Making?Soap Making Terms: What is Hot Process Soap Making?

Another way to make soap from scratch is hot process soap. This process is very similar to cold process soapmaking. However, in this method you will have a heat source to speed up the saponification process. You can use a crock pot or stove top to heat your soap mixture. After, you can technically use the bars immediately. However, letting them cure a week will provide you with harder, milder bars.

Soap Making Terms: Does Natures Garden Offer Any Hot Process Soap Recipes with Shea Butter?

Yes, we have a few! For example, we have our Manly Soap Recipe, the Beard Soap Recipe, and more that you can find under the Hot Process Soap Recipes page!

Soap Making Terms: How Long Do You Have to Wait to Use Hot Process Soap?

Yes. Although you don’t have to wait as long for your soaps to cure, there is still some lye left that needs to react. Typically, you will need to wait 1-2 week(s) before using your hp soap.

Soap Making Terms: What Does Rebatch Mean?

If you want to redo a soap batch or add more ingredients, then this is a great idea for you! It is common to rebatch to correct issues like seizing or forgotten ingredients. Also, this can be done to add ingredients that wouldn’t react well during the saponification process, like natural exfoliates or essential oils. First, take the soaps that you aren’t necessarily pleased with and grate them into pieces. Place these pieces in a crock pot and melt them with milk, water, or another liquid to prevent scotching. Also, add any additional oils that you want in these soaps. Allow you batch to reheat for one hour at which point it will by thick. After, add the color, scent, and herbs before scooping this soap into a mold.

Soap Making Terms: What is Cold Process Soap Making?Soap Making Terms: What is Cold Process Soap Making?

This process is one of a few that are refereed to as making soap from scratch because in uses water, lye, and oils to create bars of soap. Another key characteristic of this method is that you don’t need outside heat, as the lye provide enough heat for saponification. Once trace occurs, you are able to add colorants, scented oils, and herbs can be added at this point. After 24 hours, you can remove the soap from the mold and cut. However, you must let your soap cure for a period of 4-6 weeks.

Soap Making Terms: What is Lye in Soap Making?

Lye is a caustic base that is a key component for soap, as it drives the saponification process. It is sometimes referred to as sodium hydroxide for bar soaps and potassium hydroxide for liquid soaps.

Soap Making Terms: What Does Saponification Mean?

This is the process of lye reacting with the oils/fats/butters to produce soap. Saponification will produce both the soap and the glycerin in the soap.

Soap Making Terms: What Does Cure Time Mean?

Cure time is the period where the soap finishes the soaponification process until there is no more active lye present in the bars.

Soap Making Terms: What Does the Term Trace Mean in Soap Making?

In soaping, trace is when the lye water and the oils/butters have been fully combined. You will know that you’ve hit trace because the batter will thicken to a pudding-like consistency. Also, you can check to see whether you are at trace by using a spatula to “trace” a line of soap in the batter. You will notice that the line will not immediately disappear and you can see a trace of the soap you drizzled in.

Soap Making Terms: What Does Light Trace Mean in Soap Making?

Light trace is the point right before your soap comes to trace. You will begin to see a trace, but it won’t stay for more than a few seconds. So, the batter is about to hit trace where it will be thick enough to see the soap for a bit longer.

Soap Making Terms: How Long Does It Take for Soap Batter to Get to Trace?

The time is takes to get to trace will vary between batches for a number of reasons. The ingredients in a recipe can lead to different times. Also, fragrance oils and some soap additives can accelerate or slow trace in your batch.

Soap Making Terms: What Does Seize Mean in Soap Making?

If your soap seizes, then it means that your soap has gone through saponification enough that the batter is beginning to turn from liquid to solid. While this isn’t bad on its own, it makes it impossible to pour soap that is still in the bowl. This hardening soap that hasn’t yet made it to the mold will be too thick to mix and, at best, will be chunky in the mold.

Soap Making Terms: Why Do I Have Lye Pockets in My Cold Process Soap?

If you use too much lye in your soap recipe, then you can
Lye pockets can form in cold process soap most often when too much lye is used. However, it could also be a recipe that wasn’t properly formulated, an oil was left out, the soap seized, or even when the lye solution was not fully mixed. If the lye was not completely saponified you can always rebatch the soap and hot process the soap adding additional oil. Also, it is possible that it could be used in recipes such as laundry soaps that can utilize soap with a higher pH level.

Soap Making Terms: Can I Change the Soap Making Recipes?

Unlike many other bath and body recipes, you can’t simply swap out oils in the Natures Garden formulated recipe. Each oil has a certain saponification value that determines how much lye it will react with. So, switching an oil could result in your batch being lye heavy. Even if you wait longer to cure, there won’t be enough oils to react with the lye and the bars will irritate the skin or even cause burning. Instead, use SoapCalc to determine what you would have to change to get the recipe that you want!

Soap Making Terms: Reach Out to UsSoap Making Terms: Reach Out to Us

If you have any other questions or concerns about soapmaking, then please reach out to us! One easy way to ask us something is on social media. You can find us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram. Have fun soaping!

 

May
24

How Do You Make Homemade Soap?


This entry was posted in bath products, cold process soap, cold process soap vs melt and pour soap, Free Recipes, free soap recipes, homemade soap, how to make cold process soap, melt and pour soap, soap supplies, soaping terms, soapmaking and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

How Do You Make Homemade Soap? How Do You Make Homemade Soap?

Are you a new soap maker? If so, then this is going to be a great blog for you! Today we are answering the following question; How Do You Make Homemade Soap? Since there are a few different ways to make soap, we are going to talk about the two basic methods for soap making. First, we will talk about Melt and Pour Soap, which will include things like adding colorant, choosing scents, and finding the right mold. Then, we will talk about how to make Cold Process Soap, which includes formulating the recipe, choosing a mold, scenting, and adding colorant. While these two methods are similar in a few ways, there are many differences between the two and ether one can be a better option depending on the situation. So, let’s get started in learning all about soap!

How Do You Make Homemade Soap?: What are the Different Types of Soap?How Do You Make Homemade Soap?: What are the Different Types of Soap?

Before we introduce you to soap making, we need to talk about the difference between Melt and Pour Soap and Cold Process Soap. Both can be made at home, but they each require different steps. Melt and Pour soap is the simplest option of the two, as soap batch has already been created. Plus, the lye has already cured and you can use the soap immediately. All you have to do is melt your soap base and create the appearance you want for your batch. The other option is Cold Process Soap, which allows you to formulate your bars to be perfect for your needs. While this method has a bit more time invested, there is a lot more that you can do creatively with CP Soap.

How Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Melt and Pour Soap Making

If you are just ready to get to making cute soaps, then you may want to start with melt and pour soap. While you can’t change the properties of the soap base too much, this method of soap making gives you the freedom to make some pretty amazing soaps.

How Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Different Kinds of Soap BaseHow Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Different Kinds of Soap Base

While you can’t choose every ingredient, you can choose between several quality soap bases that will be sure to clean and moisturize your skin. We have soap bases that contain real honey, skin loving goats milk melt and pour soap base, and so many more. Regardless of what you are looking for in a bar of soap, you will find that all of our soap bases have quality ingredients that are hard to beat. You can look though all of the melt and pour soap bases available at Natures Garden.

How Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Coloring MP SoapHow Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Coloring MP Soap

There are a few different routes you can take with coloring your melt and pour soap. If you are trying to create a more natural bar of soap, then you may want to use herbs to color your soap. This is a good idea for face soaps, as well. So, you soap will have a more natural hue and will have the added beneficial properties of the herb. You can find suggested herbs for colorants on our Soap Coloring Class. Another great option for coloring are Da Bomb of FUN Soap Colorants, which will provide bright colors that are perfect for creating vibrant hues.

How Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Scenting MP Soap

There are a few ways to scent your homemade soaps. Some people are curious about how to scent soap naturally. Of course, we could use essential oils, which are all derived from natural sources. You can find your favorite natural scent on the Essential Oils page of our website. Since there is more variety, other people have turned to fragrance oils. We at Natures Garden have hundreds of diverse fragrance oils, which you can find alphabetically by clicking here. For each scent you will find whether it can be used for soap and what amount you can use. So, there is no need to worry whether the scent you are getting won’t work for melt and pour soap.

How Do You Make Homemade Soap?: MP Soap MoldHow Do You Make Homemade Soap?: MP Soap Mold

Finally, you are going to want to choose the soap mold for your recipe. This will depend on how big you want you soap to be. If you are going to be creating an embed or want to make small soaps for guests, then you may want to look at our Guest Soap Molds. For larger bars, you can look through the Mold Market Soap Molds or the Silicone Soap Molds. These sections have larger shapes and even a loaf mold, which is perfect for creating a big loaf from which you can cut bars of soap.

How Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Recipes for Making MP SoapHow Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Recipes for Making MP Soap

If you are looking to get inspired, then you may want to check out our Melt & Pour Soap Recipes. There are many different types of soaps that we have created and there are step by step instructions available for each one. We have soap that looks like cupcakes, candy, flowers, and so many more gorgeous designs! One fun recipe that we have is the Rainbow MP Soap Recipe and is scented with the heavenly scent of Angel Wings Fragrance Oil. With all of these fun recipes available, you are sure to find a recipe that you love!

How Do You Make Homemade Soap? : Cold Process Soap Making

Once you learn the basics, making soap from scratch is such a fun process! You can create a bar that has all the best properties to make a batch that is tailored to be just right for you. All you need to do is choose your favorite ingredients and their amounts to formulate a recipe. Then, you can get creative with scented oils, soap molds, and soap colorants!

How Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Soap Making SafetyHow Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Soap Making Safety

One of the most important parts of making soap from scratch is safety, as cp soap uses lye. So, you will want to tie your hair back, wear safety goggles, clothing that covers arms and legs, closed shoes, and a face mask. You can read more about soap making safety and find the soaping safety supplies we offer by clicking here. Also, you will want to have a well ventilated area to create your lye solution. Another very important thing to remember is that you should only pour lye into water and make sure to go slowly while stirring. Don’t let these precautions scare you though. You will be perfectly fine as long as you are wearing your safety gear and are being cautious!

How Do You Make Homemade Soap?: How to Create a Soap RecipeHow Do You Make Homemade Soap?: How to Create a Soap Recipe

There are all kinds of properties that you may want to have in your batch of soap. Many people want to know how to make moisturizing soap, how to make sensitive skin soap, or any other properties. The best way to do it is formulate your very own soap recipe and the simplest way to create your very own uniquely perfect soap recipe is the Soap Calculator. All you have to do is enter the oils and butters that you will be using in the recipe and it will tell you all the characteristics of the bar before you even make it. From this point you can tweak the amounts or switch out an ingredient to create a batch that is just right.


How Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Adding Scent to CP Soap

While many of the same scents can be used in both CP and MP soaps, there are more factors to consider for cold process soap. Again, you can either use a fragrance oil or an essential oil. But, the fragrance oil’s have the potential to change the consistency and emulsification of your batch. So, you have to be wary of ricing, where the batch clumps and looks like rice pudding. Also, a scent could cause acceleration. This is when the trace happens sooner, which is when the soap emulsifies. The batch will get thick enough to leave a trace of soap on top of the batch after scooping some out and drizzling it back in. Lastly, you could have separation of the fragrance or discoloration of your finished soap.

Some fragrance oils won’t cause any issues and others may cause a few of these issues, its all about the chemical make up. For instance, vanilla scents will often discolor to a dark color due to the vanillin and may need a Vanilla White Stabilizer. If you are curious about a specific fragrance oil, then head over to the Natures Garden YouTube channel. We have tested every scent in one of our soap recipes to show exactly how the scent performs in soap! While we do have a brief explanation of the scent performance on each Fragrance’s page, this allows you to actually see whats happening to the soap.

How Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Coloring CP SoapHow Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Coloring CP Soap

Again, you can use either herbs or soap pigments to color you soaps. There a few pigmented herbs that can be used to naturally color your soap. In our coloring class, we have options you can use for creating yellow, green, brown, red, and purple hues. But, we have found that Da Bomb and FUN soap colorants are more stable and vivid in cold process soap. While these colorants are created in a laboratory now, they  are able to create versions that are more pure and better than what was previously mined. One example of CP soap that takes the best of both options is the Total Hot Man CP Soap Recipe, which includes Activated Charcoal and Tomato Red FUN Soap Colorant.

How Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Choosing a CP Soap MoldHow Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Choosing a CP Soap Mold

Once your batch of cold process soap has reached trace and is ready to pour, it will be hot. So, you are going to need to make sure that your mold can handle it. Otherwise, your soap mold could end up melting and making a big mess. This means that it would be unlikely that you will be able to make small cold process guest soaps. However, most Mold Market Soap Molds will hold up just fine! Also, all of the SIlicone Soap Molds are sturdy enough to handle the soap. If you are looking to create a loaf of soap, then you may want to try the Silicone Soap Mold- 4 Loaf Molds. Alternatively, you can use a mold like the Silicone Soap Mold- 6 Cavity Flower to create individual bars in fun designs.

How Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Recipes for Cold Process Soap MakingHow Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Recipes for Cold Process Soap Making

If you aren’t ready to create your very own formulations yet, then feel free to try out one of Natures Garden’s very own recipes! We have all kinds of different types of Cold Process Soap Recipes that you can choose between. Furthermore, you could enter a batch of soap we have created into the soap calculator and change a few ingredients. This would be a great to practice formulating recipes. Also, you may want to try out our Beginners Cold Process Soap Recipe if this is your first time with CP soap. Whether you make your own recipe or start with ours, you are sure to find what you need to create soap that you will love. 

 

How Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Talk to UsHow Do You Make Homemade Soap?: Talk to Us

We hope that this blog has been helpful in getting all of you beginning soap makers started. If you have any more questions about anything regarding soap making, then definitely reach out to us! You can find us at the Natures Garden store or online on any of our social media pages. We can answer any questions on our Facebook page. Also, you can reach out to us on Twitter and Instagram with @ngscents. Plus, we would love to see what fun soap creations you have been able to make. Can’t wait to hear from you!

Aug
03

Recipes with Sunflower Oil


This entry was posted in bath and body, craft recipes, how to make cold process soap, make your own soap, Natures Garden, Soap making supplies, soap oil properties, sunflower oil and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

Recipes with Sunflower OilRecipes with Sunflower Oil

Sunflower Oil makes a wonderful addition to all kinds of homemade bath and body products. This oil is great for skin care, as it has amazing vitamins and healthy acids, such as amino acids and fatty acids, that are great for taking care of your skin. These nutrients have been known to work to help wrinkle reduction. The skin utilizes this oil’s nutrients to replenish itself, thus, creating a more youthful appearance. Plus, this oil is great for moisturizing, which will leave your skin soft and healthy. You will love these cosmetic and soap recipes with sunflower oil.

Also, you should know how to effectively use this ingredient. While sunflower oil is great for the skin. This cosmetic oil works well in a variety of handcrafted products. Whether you choose to make lotion, lip balm, or even a body scrub, sunflower oil will be the perfect addition to your product. So, we are sharing all the best Natures Garden’s bath and body recipes with sunflower oil that you can try out for yourself!

Recipes with Sunflower Oil Pink Lemonade Scrub RecipeRecipes with Sunflower Oil Pink Lemonade Scrub Recipe

First, we have the gorgeous Pink Lemonade Scrub Recipe!  This layered sugar scrub is both super cute and effective. Like all of our scrubs, this recipe was designed to exfoliate and moisturize your skin perfectly. So, any dead skin will be gently removed to make way for your healthy skin. Then, this lovely sugar scrub will pamper your skin with luxurious oils and butters. Further, this pretty scrub is scented with the scrumptious Raspberry Lemonade Fragrance Oil! Plus, this layered scrub is bright and fun. Together, this all makes our sugar scrub recipe perfect for creating gifts or products to sell.

Recipes with Sunflower Oil Calendula Bath Melts RecipeRecipes with Sunflower Oil Calendula Bath Melts Recipe

Our Calendula Bath Melts Recipe is great for moisturizing, as you will be soaking in a warm bath with these luxurious oils and butters. Plus, this recipe incorporates Sunflower Oil perfectly with the other ingredients. These oils and butters care for your skin as you bathe. This will allow you to effortlessly nourish and care for your skin while you relax simultaneously. Further, the scent of the added Asian Pear and Lily Fragrance Oil is a complex and beautiful blend of florals. The aroma of the real calendula flowers combined with the fresh fragrance oil create a perfectly calming bath melt. So, get crafting and have yourself the most calming bath experience.

Recipes with Sunflower Oil Natural Beet Root Lip Gloss RecipeRecipes with Sunflower Oil Natural Beet Root Lip Gloss Recipe

Next, we have an amazing lip care product that is all natural. Instead of lip tints, this gloss uses beet root powder to provide the color. Further, this recipe uses the scrumptious Juicy Watermelon Flavoring, which is fresh and juicy. Plus, this recipe creates a silky smooth lip care product that works wonderfully. Our Beet Root Lip Gloss Recipe is smooth and will leave your lips feeling soft and nourished. Plus, the appearance is more glossy than a homemade lip balm. This product will leave your lips more glossy and moisturized, similar to a typical lip gloss.

Recipes with Sunflower Oil Solid Pink Salt Scrub Recipe

Also, you can use this lovely oil to create the Solid Pink Salt Scrub Recipe. This scrub is all you need for your body, as it is soap, an exfoliator, and a moisturizer. The melt and pour soap holds everything together and ensures this product cleans you. Then, the oils add extra softening power that is wonderful for your skin. Further, this amazing body product is perfectly scented with our NG Sun and Sand Type Fragrance Oil, which is a lovely blend of ozony blend of florals and citrus. Finally, the Himalayan Pink Salt provides exfoliation and a beautiful texture. Truly, this scrub is gorgeous due to the pink salt and mica that catches the light perfectly!

Recipes with Sunflower Oil Pumpkin Sugar Scrub RecipeRecipes with Sunflower Oil Pumpkin Sugar Scrub Recipe

Further, you can create a perfect skin care product with the Pumpkin Sugar Scrub Recipe. Of course, this recipe utilizes the moisturizing properties of Sunflower Oil. This oil combines well with our other included oils and butters to create a scrub that marvelously nourishes dry skin. Further, the sugar in this recipe will remove any dead skin remaining as you are moisturizing. Plus, this sugar scrub includes real Pumpkin Pie Spice Powder which adds to our fresh Pumpkin Walnut Biscotti Fragrance Oil to provide a more authentic aroma.

 

Recipes with Sunflower Oil Bath Bomb Without Citric Acid RecipeRecipes with Sunflower Oil Bath Bomb Without Citric Acid Recipe

Next, check out our Bath Bomb Without Citric Acid Recipe. This bath bomb is fun, fizzy, and perfect for bath time! However, this is not a typical bath bomb. This recipe was created without citric acid. While this makes a slightly softer batch, they are perfect for those looking for an alternative to the typical recipe. Plus, this recipe is great for creating alternative shapes. It was a lot easier to remove these bath bombs from our Lips Mold Market Molds. Not only is this bath bomb flirty and fun, but the scent is, too! This is due to the addition of our Love Juice Fragrance Oil. Additionally, this product contains Sunflower Oil to add some skin softening love to your bath product!

 

Recipes with Sunflower Oil Girly Girl Salve RecipeRecipes with Sunflower Oil Girly Girl Salve Recipe

Another body product you can create with this oil is the Girly Girl Salve Recipe. This moisturizing recipe is crafted from a variety of nourishing butters and oils that are perfect for the skin. This salve is perfect for soothing even the most dry and cracked skin and bring your body back to a soft, nourished state. Plus, this recipe includes menthol crystals to provide a cool, tingly sensation and fresh scent. Plus, this pairs perfectly with the Waterlily Fresh Mint Fragrance Oil. This fragrance has a fresh, delicate floral aroma that blends with refreshing mint to create the perfect feminine aroma. So, treat yourself girls!

Cold Process Soap Recipe with Sunflower OilCold Process Soap Recipes with Sunflower Oil

While Sunflower Oil is great for all kinds of bath and body products, this is an especially good soaping oil! Adding this oil to soap will provide a nice, creamy lather that is very moisturizing for the skin. So, those looking for a more nourishing soap will definitely want to add this oil to their formulation. In addition, sunflower oil is used in soap
recipes where swirled soap is
desired due to its ability to slow
down trace. Furthermore, this oil works wonderfully with palm oil and olive oil. So, using a recipe with these three oils together would be a marvelous idea. Also, you can use up to 25% of sunflower oil in your soap batch. Finding the right amount of moisturizing power for your soaps is all about balance. You want your bar to take care of your skin, but when using a high amount, you can end up with a softer bar! Using the right amount of this oil will help you find the perfect balance that you are looking for.

 Recipes with Sunflower Oil Sunflower and Sunshine Soap RecipeRecipes with Sunflower Oil Sunflower and Sunshine Soap Recipe

Next, try out the adorable Sunflower and Sunshine Soap Recipe. This cold process soap recipe uses the perfect combination for a creamy, moisturizing bar of soap. Along with a few other oils and butters, this recipe includes the perfect combination of Sunflower Oil, Palm Oil, and Olive Oil. So, this bar will be a perfect, creamy bar of cold process soap. Plus, the strong, fresh, citrus aroma of the NG Early Sunrise Type Fragrance Oil in this bar pairs perfectly with the layered design. We created a layered bar of soap with bright, happy colors that turned out to be super cute.

Recipes with Sunflower Oil Sweet Orange Chili Pepper Cold Process Soap RecipeRecipes with Sunflower Oil Sweet Orange Chili Pepper Cold Process Soap Recipe

Also, you can create a fun swirled cold process soap! Our Sweet Orange Chili Pepper Cold Process Soap Recipe uses wonderfully moisturizing ingredients, sassy scent, and a bold swirled design. First, this handmade soap uses moisturizing butters and oils that provide a lovely, creamy lather. Plus, the fragrance oil has an irresistible scent, due to the Sweet Orange Chili Pepper Fragrance Oil, that performs well in soap. In fact, this strong scent works well enough to create a gorgeous in-the-pot swirl!

Recipes with Sunflower Oil Hot Fudge Brownies Cold Process Soap RecipeRecipes with Sunflower Oil Hot Fudge Brownies Cold Process Soap Recipe

Furthermore, you can use this oil to create luxurious soap recipes that smell absolutely delicious. For example, our Hot Fudge Brownies Cold Process Soap Recipe creates deliciously scented soap that is great for the skin. Plus, these homemade bars of soap smell and look just like decadent fudge brownies! This realistic scent and appearance are due to the Hot Fudge Brownies Fragrance Oil, colorant, and real, organic cocoa powder. So, you are sure to create a delicious bar of soap that anyone would love!

Recipes with Sunflower Oil Wine Cold Process Soap RecipeRecipes with Sunflower Oil Wine Cold Process Soap Recipe

Also, our Wine Cold Process Soap Recipe is a great handmade soap recipe that you can create! This recipe uses all the amazing oils and butters that will work wonders on your skin, but this recipe has an added touch of elegance. This bar has all the ingredients of a creamy bar of soap with the addition of real wine! So, your soap will contain both the velvety aroma of Merlot Wine Fragrance Oil and the true scent of actual wine. While you can choose to include any of your spare wine, I would highly recommend using some type of red wine! Red wine has been shown to have amazing properties for the skin. In fact, this type of wine has been said to reduce signs of aging and  leave your skin rejuvenated.

Recipes with Sunflower Oil Herbal Soap RecipeRecipes with Sunflower Oil Herbal Soap Recipe

Next, you can check out our Herbal Soap Recipe. This handmade soap recipe uses nourishing oils and butters, like Sunflower Oil, to create an amazing bar of soap! Not only does this soap contain luscious oils and butters, but the recipe includes real herbs. For example, this soap is topped with real, whole Chamomile Flowers. This herb has been said to have both relaxing and skin softening properties, which makes this bar perfect for unwinding in the bath. Plus, this bar of soap uses the fresh and clean aroma of our Dandelion Pear Fragrance Oil. So, you are sure to enjoy this bath product!

Recipes with Sunflower Oil Argan Soap RecipeRecipes with Sunflower Oil Argan Soap Recipe

Also, you can use sunflower oil and the other moisturizing ingredients to create the wonderful Argan Soap Recipe. This bar of cold process soap includes a plethora of butters and oils that care for the skin. These ingredients reach deep into your skin to nourish your deeper layers. Further, this recipe has a fun swirled soap design. This uses orange, white, and blue soap batter to create a fun in-the-pot swirl! While each batch will be similar due to the technique, each swirl will have its own unique differences in the design. Not only will this soap have a great design, but our Kulu Bay Fragrance Oil performs perfectly in cp soap. This means that the scent is going to remain beautiful! So, get ready for a handmade soap that is gorgeous both inside and out!

Recipes with Sunflower Oil World Peace Cold Process Soap RecipeRecipes with Sunflower Oil World Peace Cold Process Soap Recipe

Finally, we have the amazing World Peace Cold Process Soap Recipe! This soap has a fun shape, creative swirl, and a strong scent. While many soaps are either sliced from a loaf or poured into the traditional rectangle shape, this bar is breaking the mold (figuratively, of course). Plus, we swirled bright colors to create an almost tie dye appearance. Furthermore, this recipe uses the Peace Fragrance Oil, which smells amazing and strong in soap! What more could you want in a handmade soap? This bar has everything!

Recipes with Sunflower Oil Check Out All Our Cosmetic Oils

We at Natures Garden hope that you have enjoyed these quality bath and body product recipes! If you are looking for more oils to pair with Sunflower Oil, then check out our natural fixed oils or our natural butters. These ingredients are perfect for creating cosmetics, applying essential oils, soap making, and so much more! We are sure that you will find the best nourishing ingredients for your products!

May
06

Jersey Soap Recipe


This entry was posted in cold process soap, cold process soap colorant, cold process soap scents, homemade soap, how to make cold process soap, make your own soap, soap ingredients, soap making recipes, Soap making supplies, soap recipes and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

jersey soap recipe

 

This manly themed Jersey Soap Recipe is easy and fun to make if you have soaped before.  Perfect for a Fathers Day gift or a gift for your favorite sports fan; using a combination of both cold processed and hot processed soap, you will be able to create a manly scented soap that looks very similar to a sports jersey.  In creating this masterpiece, feel free to swap out the colors to select ones that batter fit the theme of the end product you are looking for.

Please Note:  To complete this homemade project, it will take two days to create.  Day one will be the cold process soap steps.  Then, you will have to wait 24 hours before unmolding this soap.  Once that time has elapsed, the second day will involve the hot process soap steps.  Then, of course there is cure time involved due to the fact that there is cold process soap in your end product.  But, you will have nice and firm bars when finished.

The majority of the ingredients and some of the supplies used in this recipe can be purchased at Natures Garden.

Here are the ingredients that you will need to make the cold process portion of this recipe:
For the lye solution:
65 grams Water
24 grams Lye
For your soaping ingredients:
60 grams Shea Butter
50 grams Coconut Oil 76
33 grams Apricot Kernel Oil
21 grams Grapeseed Oil
9 grams Castor Oil
6 grams Sodium Lactate
11 grams Game On Fragrance Oil
2 grams Titanium Dioxide

As for the mold, you will need to have the Mold Market Square Loaf mold.  This mold is also available at Natures Garden.

Once you have everything and you are ready to start soaping, here are the steps, complete with pictures to show you how it is done:

make your lye solution

Put on your safety gear, and prep your area. Then, make your lye solution.

melting down your soaping ingredients

Now, melt and combine your Apricot Kernel Oil, Grapeseed Oil, Shea Butter, Coconut Oil 76, and Castor Oil.

adding sodium lactate

Once the lye solution has cooled add the sodium lactate and stir.

titanium dioxide paste

Next, remove 8 grams of the melted soaping ingredients, and place it into a separate mixing bowl.  Then, add your titanium dioxide to this and stir in to make a paste.   Set aside.

emulsify soap batter

When ready, combine the lye solution and soaping ingredients together. Stick blend to emulsify.

scenting and coloring the batter

Next, add titanium dioxide paste and stick blend to make the whole batter white in color.  Then, add the fragrance and stick blend.

pouring your soap

Once you have reached trace, pour the white soap batter into the 4 pound mold.  Please Note:  The batter will NOT fill the mold.  This is done intentionally.  Insulate.

measuring out your embed

After 24 hours:  Carefully remove the white soap from the mold.   Place it down flat and horizontally in front of you. Then, using a ruler, measure out 2 inches in height and mark it.

the number in your jersey soap
Now, using a knife, cut the soap so that you have one long bar.  This will be the number one in your jersey soap.  Then, set aside.

The cold process steps are now complete.  You are now half way there.  The next step is the Hot Process and here is the recipe (using the same ingredients with the addition soap colorant).
For the Lye solution:
420 grams Water
153 grams Lye
For your soaping ingredients:
387 grams Shea Butter
321 grams Coconut Oil 76
210 grams Apricot Kernel Oil
133 grams Grapeseed Oil
55 grams Castor Oil
35 grams Sodium Lactate
69 grams Game On Fragrance Oil
15 grams Ultramarine Blue Fun Soap Colorant

meling your ingredients for hp recipe

Set your crock pot to a low heat setting. Next, place all of your oils and butter into the crock pot. Heat and occasionally stir them until melted.

adding the sodium lactate to hp

While you are melting the soaping ingredients, make your lye solution.  Also, add the sodium lactate. Stir in to incorporate.

combining the soap ingredients

Once all of the soaping ingredients are melted, slowly pour the lye mixture into the crock pot.

coloring the hp soap

Next, in short bursts, stick blend directly in the crock pot. Once you have the batter at light trace, add the ultramarine blue soap colorant. Then, stick blend to incorporate throughout the whole batter.

hp soap pudding like state
Now, keep blending in short bursts with your stick blender until the batter reaches a pudding like state.  Remember to periodically stir the soap in between with your spatula.  Once the batter has reached this state, lid the crock pot.

hp soap with waxy appearance
Allow the soap mixture to cook, and periodically stir it. Doing this will prevent the soap from scorching.  As the soap cooks, the soap will start to dry out and take on a waxy appearance.

hp soap that has consistency of mashed potatoes
Remember to stir occasionally, but allow the soap to cook for about 2 hours.  You will know that your soap has cooked long enough once it has the consistency of mashed potatoes.

adding the scent and stirring it in
Next, quickly add the Game On scent to the soap.  Then, stir well throughout the whole batter.

about one inch of soap in the mold
Now, get your mold and place about one inch worth of the soap into it.  Gently tap the soap in the mold to remove any air bubbles.

placing the number 1 in the soap
Once the mold has been tapped, vertically place the white soap into the mold.  Using your fingers, gently wedge the soap into place.  Try to keep the white soap centered.  This will be the number 1 on the jersey soap.

filling in the rest of the mold

Once the number 1 has been set into the soap, begin to carefully fill in the open sides with soap.  As you are doing this, remember to gently tap the soap mold to remove any trapped air.  Please Note:  Due to the tapping  of the mold, you may have to recenter the number 1 in the soap if it becomes askew.

heap the top of the soap
Once the mold is filled, heap the top lip portion with the remaining soap.

how to get the jersey shape

Now, using your ladle, carefully run it down the center of the mold and remove the excess soap.  Place the excess soap along the sides.  This scooping manner will give your jersey soap its neck line.  Allow the soap to mold overnight.

removing the soap from the mold
The next morning, remove the soap from the mold.

cut your jersey soap

Finally, cut the soap into bar sized slices. Allow the soap to cure further (because of the cold process soap) before use.

That is it!  You have just accomplished the jersey soap recipe.  Enjoy your new soap!

 

May
05

Our First Stick Blender


This entry was posted in cold process soap, handcrafted soap, homemade soap, hot process soap, how to make cold process soap, Natures Garden, soap, Soap making supplies, soap supplies and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

our first stick blender

 

This blog is dedicated in remembrance of our first official soap making utensil, Mr. Smooth Operator.

3 years ago, we started to dabble into the wonderful world of soap making. As we learned all about this art, researching the steps, ingredients, and supplies; we welcomed a new soaping utensil into our lives. It was lovingly named: Mr. Smooth Operator. He was our first stick blender.

Today, with tears in our eyes; we lay Mr. Smooth Operator to rest.

Mr. Smooth Operator was an extremely hard worker, who took on each soaping endeavor with vigor and vitality. He was there for us through thick and thin batch, and never blinked an eye when it came to having to put forth extra effort; asking for nothing in return.

Looking back, there were times when we took Mr. Smooth Operator for granted; especially early on when we were new to the soaping game. But, he never held that against us. He was a happy, go getting fellow, who lived a life of sacrifice. He would take on the task of hard labor and getting dirty; all in order for us to be clean with our soap.

He was the best stick blender.

Strongly rooted in a family that strives on performance, the Cuisinart Smart Stick Immersion Blender series should be proud. Not only did Mr. Smooth Operator fulfill his calling as a stick blender, but he willingly exceeded expectations every day. And boy, were there some days that he put in the overtime.

Through all of these amazing qualities, Mr. Smooth Operator quickly became a part of our soaping family. He has set the standard of quality work (and easy clean up), leaving behind an awful big pair of shoes for the next stick blender to fill.

Mr. Smooth Operator will truly be missed by everyone on the creative team at Natures Garden.

We hope that in his passing, he is out there somewhere blending huge batters of joy and happiness. Achieving immersions, young and fresh as the day he was first opened and used.

Apr
28

Too Much Castor


This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, castor oil, cold process soap, cold process soap scents, Fragrance Oils, handmade soap, homemade soap, how to make cold process soap, Natures Garden, soap challenge, soap ingredients, Soap making supplies and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

too much castor

The following blog was written by a new employee of Natures Garden who is doing her best to learn the science and art of soap making.  Please take that into consideration before commenting on her experiences, successes, and yes…failures.

Hello everyone!

The other day I wrote a blog about how I figured out my own recipe and all the details of my soap. I was so very excited about this project. I did really well throughout the whole process and was happy with the outcome of my soap. My soap bars were gorgeous and I was  officially a successful soap maker!

Well, the following day, I was assigned a new project: to write another recipe from start to finish. This would include everything from ingredients, to scent, to color, whether or not to add sodium lactate or color stabilizer, the swirl technique (aka design), and the mold. We are talking about EVERYTHING! I said, OK, I can do that!

The only difference between this assignment and my last project was this time there was not going to be a double check. Yes, the last few times I embarked on this journey, my work was double checked. I am in training, and there are a lot of things you need to know about the soap making process and everything that comes along with it. With all of that being said, I felt confident I could do this…really! So off I went.

I figured out my recipe, gathered all of my ingredients, put on my safety gear, and prepped.

Once I melted all of my oils, put together my lye solution, emulsified and scented, I was ready to design. I placed my colors in their bowls, and I was ready for the in the pot swirl. If you have not noticed, I am fond of this technique! Everything was going smoothly!

I took the colored batter that I was using and plopped it into my main soap batter and began the swirling technique. And, let me just tell you, my soap looked beautiful. I couldn’t even get over how nicely it poured into the silicone loaf mold. I was excited!

Now this was on Friday so I had to play the waiting game all weekend. By Sunday night, I couldn’t wait to see my masterpiece. When Monday morning finally arrived, I was ready to unveil my homemade soap. I picked it up and started to the chopping block. Hmmm, this soap seemed a bit squishy. I thought this can’t be good.

Starting to work the soap out of the mold, I realized that now it seemed sticky. This was not at all what I was hoping for. Finally, I got the soap out of the mold, and proceeded to cut it. That was when the soap stuck to my knife…just great! Despite the fact that the colors were awesome and it smelled great, I had messed up somewhere.  My soap bars were tacky and very soft.

So, I checked my weights and percentages. Everything was good. Then, I had my recipe double checked by someone else. They pointed out their opinion of what the problem could be.  I had too much castor oil in my recipe. Oopsy! I had totally overlooked the frequently-held opinion that when making soap that contains  Castor Oil , you may want to stay at 8% or less castor oil in your formulation.   My addition was 20%.

In the end, I felt defeated, and was totally bummed! I did however, make a note to self: while Castor oil is good for the “bubbly” in your soap, my experience showed me that using too much castor oil may produce soap that is tacky and hard to remove from the mold.  In the future, if I want to produce a harder bar of soap, I may want to increase my percentages of oils that are known to produce harder bars of soap such as coconut oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil.

I predicted I was going to fail…and when I do, I do it right…lol.

So my epic failure is a lesson learned. And, even though I am hard on my little feelings, don’t be too hard on yourself for your mistakes. My advice to any new soapers: Turn setbacks into future achievements, and lessons to be taught to others so they don’t make the same boo boos.

Until next time, have a fabulous day!

Cindy

 

 

Apr
14

Brittle Soap


This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, cold process soap, handmade soap, homemade soap, how to make cold process soap, make your own soap, natural colorants, soap ingredients, Soap making supplies, soap mold, soap recipe, soap supplies, sodium lactate and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

soap that has too much sodium lactate
Warning, the following pictures may disturb some soapers!

Here was the scenario:  Using a Hot Process Recipe, we made a soap batch that we thought would work.  However, we got a little too sodium lactate happy.  As a result, our soap bars were not functional.  And, to be completely honest, some of our soap could not even be classified as a bar.

Can you feel the soaping life lesson coming on?

Our hot process soap was molded and ready to be removed and sliced.  The end was trimmed off, and we went in for our first cut… that was when the slice fell, and broke into two pieces.

brittle slice of soap

Again we tried, but to no avail…

crumbly soap

That was when we thought to slice the bars thicker.  Still the same result, a broken bar of soap.

high amount of sodium lactate

Heart broken, we came to the conclusion that there was too much sodium lactate in our recipe.

Yes, sad but true; we have brittle soap.  And, a 4 pound batch at that!  Even though the soap was brittle, we still wanted to find out how it performed.  So, we washed our hands with the bar pieces.  This action made the finished bars completely crumble as we rubbed them together under the running water.

testing the processed soap

The original recipe was a failure, but not a complete one.  We were able to see first hand what happens to soap when too much sodium lactate is added.

soap that needs a rebatch

In one of the earlier Natures Gardens blog posts, we wrote that using too much sodium lactate in your soap recipe will produce finished bars that crumble or are brittle.  This soap is the perfect example of exactly how this worked.

The recipe that we used contained 1 ounce of sodium lactate per pound of soaping oils in our recipe.  We thought that this would help harden the bar, especially since the soap was made from very soft oils.

Well, we were wrong.  This is why testing is highly suggested when dealing with soaping additives like sodium lactate.

Apr
08

Hot Soap


This entry was posted in bath products, cold process soap, cold process soap colorant, cold process soap scents, creative, Fragrance Oils, homemade soap, how to make cold process soap and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

hot soap

Sweet Orange Chili Pepper CP Soap Recipe

This hot soap is just too good to pass up!

For this recipe, we wanted to really knock it out of the box.  And, in the end, the whole Hot Soap theme really tied together nicely with the scent and color.  We could not be happier with the total package of this awesome soap and recipe.  In fact, our testing and end results were so amazing, we couldn’t even wait to share the cold process soap recipe, so you to can recreateyour very own hot soap.  Since, this cold process soap recipe makes approximately 4.5 pounds of  beautiful, creamy and rich lathering bars; we used the Mold Market Square Loaf Mold and have enough soap batter to achieve a nice and full heaped top to the soap.  This made for very hearty sized slices.

To scent the soap, we selected Sweet Orange Chili Pepper.  This fragrance oil qualifies as a hot soap scent candidate because it is one of Natures Garden’s top selling cold process soap scents.  Not only does this fragrance oil have a kick, but it also behaves.  This means it is a Perfect Pour, and the scent retention is hands down amazing in the cured bar of soap.  If you have yet to try this scent in soap, you are really missing out!

Sticking with the hot soap theme, we went with the additions of a bold red and vibrant orange color.  This was accomplished using the FUN soap colorant tomato red, and neon orange.  However, for these colors to truly dazzle, we decided that the colors should be added as swirls to a white soap base.  Now, although Sweet Orange Chili Pepper fragrance oil does not discolor, we wanted a clean white.  We attained this by adding titanium dioxide.

The red and orange colored batter was introduced to the white soap batter using the in the pot swirl technique.  We personally love using this method to create beautiful and flowing swirls in our finished soap bars.  But, don’t get overwhelmed, this hot soap is really easy to make; and in this blog post we will go over each step with pictures of our process included.

Now, before we get started, if you have never made cold process soap before; please read these two classes to familiarize yourself with the soap making process.  They are Basic CP Soap Making Class and Soap Making Safety Class.

If you have already soaped before, lets move on to the recipe and ingredients!

For the Lye Solution
517 grams of water
189 grams of lye
For your soaping ingredients
340 grams of Shea Butter
408 grams of Coconut Oil 76
122 grams of Sunflower Oil
136 grams of Rice Bran Oil
272 grams of Olive Oil-pomace
82 grams of Castor Oil
85 grams of Sweet Orange Chili Pepper Fragrance Oil
50 grams of Sodium Lactate
7 grams of Titanium Dioxide
6 grams of FUN Soap Colorant- Tomato Red
4 grams of FUN Soap Colorant- Neon Orange

As for other supplies that you will need in addition to the standard soaping supplies:  2 mixing bowls (1 for the red soap colorant, and 1 for the orange soap colorant) and a spatula (for the in the pot swirl technique).

So, now that you have everything that you need lets get our safety gear on and get started.

soap making safety gear

Next, make your lye solution.

making your lye solution

Then, weigh out and combine your soaping ingredients and melt.

melted soaping ingredients
Now, back to the lye solution.  Once it has cooled, add the sodium lactate.  Use your spatula to carefully stir this in.

adding sodium lactate

When your lye solution and soaping ingredients are within 5-10 degrees of each other, it is time to combine them together.

adding the lye solution to the soap ingredients
Then, stick blend for emulsion.

stick blending until emulsion
Now, get your two mixing bowls for the colorants.  To the first bowl, weigh out the tomato red soap colorant.  Then, to the second bowl, weigh out the neon orange soap colorant.

hot soap colorant
Next, add the fragrance oil to the soap batter and stick blend to incorporate.

scenting your hot soap

Then, get your soap batter, and place 400 grams into each soap colorant bowl.  To incorporate the orange soap colorant, stir this with a spoon.  To incorporate the red soap colorant, stick blend.  Once both colors are incorporated in their bowls, set them aside.

separating out soap batter for color
Moving quickly, to the remaining soap batter, add titanium dioxide.  Then, stick blend well to incorporate.

adding titanium dioxide to the soap batter

Now, bring the white soap batter over to your color soap bowls.  Then, drop some of the orange soap batter throughout the white soap.  Continue doing this until all of the orange soap is gone.  Repeat the same action with the red soap batter.

pouring the hot soap colors into the soap batter
Now, for the in the pot swirl:  Start by placing the spatula alongside the inside bottom edge of the bowl.  Then, come straight up the center.  When you reach the top, pick the spatula up.  Now, starting on one side, begin your swirls in a “s” pattern (using the spatula).  Repeat on the other side.

hot soap in the pot swirl

Next, carefully pour the soap batter into the mold.

pouring the hot soap
Once the mold has been filled, use the remaining batter to add a nice heaped topping.  You may need to wait a few minutes for the soap batter to thicken slightly before attempting this.  Then once all of the remaining soap has been heaped, insulate.  Please note:  You may want to insulate your soap using something that will not touch the top of the heaped soap.

one hot soap

After 24 hours, remove the soap from the mold.  Then, using your knife, slice the hot soap into bars.  Allow them to further cure before using.

That is it!  Your hot soap performs and smells fantastic.  Plus, you will have created the most beautiful swirls.  Enjoy!

Natures Garden is not responsible for the performance of any of the recipes provided on our website. Testing is your responsibility. If you plan to resell any recipes we provide, it is your responsibility to adhere to all FDA regulations. If there are ingredients listed in a recipe that Natures Garden does not sell, we cannot offer any advice on where to purchase those ingredients.

Aug
28

Finding the Perfect Soap Recipe


This entry was posted in crafts as a hobby, creative, Fragrance Oils, homemade, how to make cold process soap, New recipes, recipes, soap oil properties and tagged , , , , , , on by .

Soaping with knowledge, experience, and confidence.

With such a variety of soaping bases, fats, and oils available in the market, one can easily see where the excitement can collide with frustration, especially if you are new to soaping.  We strive for a perfect recipe, but where to begin, the possibilities are endless.  From this soap making blog series, we have already gone over the different types of soaping processes, soap safety, and soaping terminology.  Now, we seek out creating the perfect soaping recipe.

Soap is made by the chemical reaction that occurs when mixing fatty acids, lye, and water.  The lye component actually works as an emulsifier, bonding the fatty oils and water together.  Without the lye, this bond would never form.  These 3 elements, fatty acids, lye, and water are all essential components to the saponification process.

Each soaping oil/butter has a fatty acid composition, and since every oil/butter is different, so is their fatty acid composition.  It is through the variance of each fatty acid composition that important soaping characteristics and qualities are found.   Let’s briefly look at some of the most common fatty acids, as well as, the qualities that are provided by them in a cured bar of soap.

Lauric Acid:  Provides hardness, cleansing, and bubbly lather.

Linoleic Acid:  Provides conditioning

Myristic Acid:  Provides hardness, cleansing, and bubbly lather.

Oleic Acid:  Provides conditioning

Palmitic Acid:  Provides hardness and a creamy lather

Ricinoleic Acid:  Provides conditioning, bubbly lather, and a creamy lather.

Stearic Acid:  Provides hardness and a creamy lather.

As you can see, each and every element that is put into your soaping recipe has distinct benefits or uses, and some ingredients can also inhibit certain soap bar qualities.  Please also notice, that none of the fatty acids allow for all five of the soaping qualities that you are looking for in a bar of soap.  This is why; in order to find a good symmetry among these qualities, a soaping recipe usually contains several different oils (fatty acids).

In order to create a quality bar of soap, it is necessary to find a balance between hardness, cleansing, conditioning, bubbly lather, and creamy lather. This usually involves using a combination of oils/butters in your soap recipe. A typical bar soap recipe calls for 38% water content, and a 5% superfat (the percentage of oils that do not saponifiy).

Here are the values for a typical bar of soap; they are presented in a range:

Hardness 29 to 54
Cleansing 12 to 22
Conditioning 44 to 69
Bubbly lather 14 to 46
Creamy lather 16 to 48

There is however, one example of a soap recipe that can be done with just one oil.  For people who are allergic to nuts, olive oil soap can be made with just that…olive oil.  No allergen worries.  Once this bar has cured though, you have a nice conditioning soap bar that will not leave your hands dry, but, that same soap bar also will not produce a nice lather, and will be very limited in cleansing ability.  This is why being aware of all of the capabilities of your oils, fats, butters, and additives will give you a distinct advantage over other soap bars in the market.

Remember, since all oils have their own fatty acid makeup, they also have specific saponification or SAP values.  This is why it is extremely important that once the ingredients of your soaping recipe are calculated, you MUST use those oils.  They cannot be exchanged out for other soaping oils without recalculating your recipe.

Feeling overwhelmed yet?  Don’t!  We know that this is a lot of information to grasp.  This is why if you are new to soaping, it is our suggestion that you try a recipe that has already been tried and tested.  Doing this will allow you to initiate yourself with the soaping instruction and procedure.  Performing the steps from beginning to end will also give you a firsthand experience of the soaping method and key properties of the saponification process like trace or gel phase.

Congratulations Newbies!  Now is the time where we are actually going to make our first batch together.

If you have not read our blog on soap making safety, please do so now

http://www.naturesgardencandles.com/blog/soap-making-safety/

Working with lye can be very dangerous!

We have already went slightly ahead, and provided you below a recipe for your 1st time soaping.

Here is what you will need for a 2 pound batch:

6 ounces of Coconut Oil, 76 degree

8.4 ounces of Olive Oil Pomace

8.4 ounces Palm Oil

1.2 ounces of Castor Oil

1.5 ounces of a body safe fragrance oil ie Oatmeal Milk & Honey

9.12 ounces of Distilled Water

3.393 ounces of lye (NaOH)

This recipe range for soap bar quality is:

Hardness 43
Cleansing 17
Conditioning 54
Bubbly lather 22
Creamy lather 31

As you will notice all of the qualities fall within the suggested range nicely.  This soap recipe will give you a balanced overall bar of soap.

When selecting your body safe fragrance oil, please take the time to review the CP soap results.  We have a link with all of our fragrance oils listed alphabetically with the CP results:

http://www.naturesgardencandles.com/mas_assets/pdf/fragrtest.pdf

Good Luck and remember, once you feel confident with your testing recipe, it is time to break the mold and explore the realm of crafting your own soap recipe.  Soap that is completely made by scratch, every ingredient controlled by you!

A very informative class has been created to help you find exactly which ingredients you may want to consider using in your recipe.  Here is the link:

http://www.naturesgardencandles.com/mas_assets/pdf/soapoils.pdf

As you looking at all of the various fats/oils/butters that are capable for soaping recipes, jot down or note any of interest.

In the next class, we will review how to use the soap calculator!

Aug
15

Soap Terminology


This entry was posted in how to make cold process soap, Natures Garden, soap oil properties, soap safety, soaping terms and tagged , , , , , on by .

Below is a list of some common terms used when soaping.  Although we tried our hardest to ensure that all important soaping terms are defined, this is by no means a complete soaping dictionary.

Absolute-

Derived from plants through a method of extraction involving solvent, this term refers to the highly aromatic, concentrated oil that is extracted.

Additives-

Ingredients that can be added to processed soap, which are not included in the original recipe which was used to calculate the SAP value for lye purposes.  This additive category would include all ingredients with the exceptions of: lye, water, soaping oils, butters, and fats.  This means that additives would describe the addition of fragrance oil, soap colorant, optiphen, vitamin E, herbs, clays, etc.  Note:  If you have a superfat recipe, any leftover or excess oils, butters, or fats, not saponified by the lye solution would also be considered an additive.

Alkali-

Any compound with a pH higher than 7.  Alkali is also referred to as a base.  Both sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are alkalis (or bases).

Allergen-

An element that can cause an allergic reaction (irritation, redness, swelling, discomfort) in one person, but does not adversely affect another.

Anhydrous-

Not containing any water.

Anti-bacteria-

The ability to fight off bacteria successfully.

Anti-oxidant-

Natural or synthetic elements that have the ability to decrease oxidation, preventing breakdown or spoilage.

Anti-septic-

The ability to fight or decrease an infection topically (on the skin), by restricting the growth of microorganisms.

Aromatherapy-

The use of certain fragrance or essential oils that can reform a person’s mood or actions.

Aromatic-

Being odoriferous, having a strong odor; usually found as a pleasant scent.

Astringent-

An element with the capability to pull together or constrict skin tissues (or pores), concurrently restricting the flow of natural secretion from the skin.

Base-

Also known as an alkali; any substance with a pH level higher than 7.  Both sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are bases (or alkalis).

Botanical-

Directly from or related to plant or plant life.

Carrier Oil-

A substance that is used to dilute a fragrance or essential oil so that it is safe for use on the body.  Carrier oils can also refer to an oil that is used to carry the fragrance out in a product like roll on perfume.  Oils used in this way typically do not have a very strong scent, ie: sweet almond oil.

Castile Soap-

Originally denoting an olive oil soap bar; which was named for the region in Spain where it originated.  This term now is commonly given to any soap containing 100% olive oil (no other soaping oil used in the recipe).

Caustic-  

Usually a term to describe a very strong acid or base, this refers to a substance that by means of a chemical reaction will breakdown or destroy other elements under certain conditions.  Caustic material is very dangerous especially to elements containing water such as organic tissue.  An example of a caustic ingredient is sodium hydroxide (lye).

Cold Process Soap Making-

The term cold process is actually attributed to the fact that there is no outside heating source required for saponification; the lye mixture itself heats and saponifies the oils.  This process, abbreviated as CP, involves diluting lye into distilled water to form a lye solution.  This lye solution is then added to melted oils/fats/butters and stirred.  After trace is present, other additives such as fragrance and herbs may be added.  Batter is then poured into molds.  Insulation of molds is required.  Within 24 hours, the soap is solid enough to be removed from the mold and cut, exposing more soap area to oxidation.  For a time period of 4-6 weeks, the soap must complete the saponification process.  During this time, any excess lye and water is evaporated out, creating a milder and harder bar of soap.  Note:  Using a CP bar of soap that still has active lye will irritate and burn the skin.  A pH strip test is the best way to test if your soaps are safe to use.

Cold Process Oven Process Soap Making-

This soaping process; usually referred to as CPOP, involves diluting lye into distilled water to form a lye solution.  This lye solution is then added to melted oils/fats/butters and stirred.  After trace is present, other additives such as fragrance and herbs may be added.  Batter is then poured into molds.  The molds are then placed into a 170 degree oven for 1- 2 1/2 hr.  Within 24 hours, the soap is solid enough to be removed from the mold and cut, exposing more soap area to oxidation.  To ensure milder and harder bars of soap, the soap is then cured for 2-4 weeks.  Note:  Using a CP bar of soap that still has active lye will irritate and burn the skin.  A pH strip test is the best way to test if your soaps are safe to use.

Cosmetic Grade-

Available in different grades which are priced accordingly, this refers to ingredients that are safe for use on the body or in cosmetics.

Cure-

The time period that it takes to saponify soap so that there is no longer any active lye present.

D&C-

D & C is the abbreviation for drug and cosmetics.  If something is approved as D&C safe, then it can be used for cosmetics or in drugs.

Deodorize-

This term refers to the removal of a scent from something.  Within soaping reference, many soaping oils are deodorized to take away their natural scent.  Using deodorized soaping oils is one way to keep your fragrance true to their original aroma.

Detergent-

This agent has cleansing benefits and performs very similar to soap.  However, detergent is made from chemical compounds other than the fats/oil/butters and lye (like soap).  When a detergent is found in the ingredients list of a product, it must be labeled as a cosmetic product under the specific guidelines of the FDA.

Dreaded Orange Spots-

These spots occur in processed soaps that contain are large amount of soaping oils that have turned rancid.  These spots are orangish, brownish, beigeish in color.  It is believed that they are  caused by using soaping oils which are old.

Embeds-

Embeds refer to pieces of soap that are placed into the processing soap during the light trace stage.

Emollient-

Refers to having certain properties that are both soothing and softening to the skin.

Emulsifying Wax-

This is an emulsifier (a product that allows water based ingredients and oil based ingredients to bind together) used in hair and skin care. Emulsifying wax is used in skincare recipes to allow for thick creams.

Emulsion-

This is when two liquids which normally would not blend together, are blended together (oil/water).  Typically, the process involves an emulsifier (a product that allows water based ingredients and oil based ingredients to bind together).

Essential Oil-

Natural volatile oils that are extracted through various means from plant matter.  Extraction could take place by means of:  Distillation, expression, or the use of chemical solvents.

Exfoliate-

An additive that is added to processed soap that allows for the removal of dirt and debris from the skin, as well as, the removal of dead skin cells themselves, for healthier skin.

Exothermic- 

A term referring to the heat that is produced and released when a chemical reaction occurs. Examples of an exothermic reaction would be when lye is added to water or when the lye solution is added to the oils and butters.

Extract-

For essential oils, this is when the oil can be extracted from the plant without the use of any chemical solvents.  This is the most pure, concentrated form of an essential oil.

F,D&C-

F,D&C is the short abbreviation for Food, Drug, and Cosmetics.  If something is F,D&C approved, that means that it is a safe ingredient for use in food, drug, and cosmetics.

Fatty Acids-

Fatty acids are compounds either saturated or unsaturated, that are found in all fats and butters.  The fatty acids are what is responsible for giving your soap bars conditioning, creamy lather, bubbles, hardness, and cleansing ability.

Fixed Oils-

These are oils such as olive, palm, and coconut, that can be heated without evaporating.

Flash Point-

The possible lowest temperature that will inflame the vapors of a liquid when introduced to a source of ignition.  Flashpoints are available for every fragrance and essential oil that Natures Garden carries.  They are located in three places, on the website under the fragrance information,  on the specific MSDS sheets, as well as on the fragrance labels themselves.  Fixed oils also have a flashpoint.

Fragrance Oil-  

The blended combination of essential oils, synthetic aroma chemicals, and resins to produce a liquid that is extremely aromatic. Certain scents can only be derived synthetically such as Strawberry, Coconut, Banana, Mango (to name just a few) because these particular aromas cannot be made into essential oil form.

Gel Phase-

A possible phase of saponification, since not all soap batches will do this; occurring in the beginning of the process, this refers to the short period of time when the soap batter transforms to a warm clear gel.  This gel will then slowly return to being opaque, but it will also be a little bit more solid and cooler.

Glycerin-

A natural emollient and humectant, glycerin is a product of processed soap.  It is also often removed from commercial brands soaps and used to created creams and lotions.

Hot Process Soap Making-

This soaping process, generally referred to as HP, has steps very similar to the CP soap steps, but varies in that you are adding heat to the equation to speed up the saponification process. The heat sources are usually a crock pot or stovetop.  The HP process includes: making your lye water mixture, adding your oils to the heat source, blending the lye water and oils together, stir, cook, stir, stir, stir, add fragrance/ additives, stir some more. With this process, it is not until the soap batter is closer to a solid than a liquid that it is scooped and packed into a mold. Since the saponification process has already completed from the heat, there is no need to insulate your mold.  Although a cure time for these soaps is not required, to get a milder and harder bar of soap, a cure time of 1 week is advised.  The final soap bars will have a very rustic appeal.

Humectant-

An ingredient that not only attracts water from the environment, but also aids the skin in absorbing the water as well.

Hydrating-

Something that provides moisture or water to the skin.

Hydrogenated Oil-

An oil that has the addition of hydrogen added to it to make it a solid or semi solid at room temperature.  The process of hydrogenation helps to decrease the chance of oils turning rancid.

INCI Name-

Mandatory for labeling in the US and Canada, the INCI names were created to ensure that all ingredients would be listed the same on various cosmetic products.  This also allows for ease on consumers when comparing ingredient lists on cosmetics.  INCI stands for International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient.

Infusion-

Taking an additive such as a herb, and allowing it to steep in a liquid to extract the herb’s beneficial aspects.

Insoluble-

This means not able to be dissolved.  Oils/Butters/Fats will not dissolve in water.

Irritant-

Much like an allergen, irritants cause disturbing and painful reactions to skin.

Lye-   

Essential to the saponification process, lye is a caustic base.  Lye can also be referred to as either sodium hydroxide (used to make bar soaps) or potassium hydroxide (used to make liquid soaps).

Lye Discount-

The method of purposely decreasing the amount of lye that should be included in a soaping recipe.

Melt and Pour Soap Making-

This soaping process, usually referred to as M&P, involves using soap that has already gone through the saponification process.  The pre-fabricated soap base only needs a few steps before use.  First, the slabs are cut and melted down into a liquid form in order to add any fragrance, color, or additives.  Once this is complete, the liquid must be poured into a mold where it will harden.  The soap is finished and can be used once it has hardened and is popped out of the mold.  Since this process does not include the use of lye, no cure time is needed.

Melting Point-

The temperature at which a soaping oil will turn from a solid to a liquid, or starts melting.

MSDS-

The abbreviation of Material Safety Data Sheet.  These sheets contain all of the relevant information of a specific material.

Natural-

Anything that is of the earth, not containing any manmade or synthetic additions to its makeup.

Nutrient-

Within the realm of soap making, this refers to anything that is beneficial or has favorable advantages for the skin.

Organic-

Without the additions of anything man made or chemically altered, this term denotes anything that was once living.

pH scale-

A form of measurement for the acidity or alkalinity of a substance in ratio to water.  Ranging from 0-14, the lower the number, the more acid it is.  The higher the number, the more alkaline.  A pH of 7 will denote neutral (water has the pH of 7).  Processed soap will have a pH of 8.5-10.5 when cured completely.

pH strip-

Litmus paper containing water soluble dyes that when dipped into a liquid or set on a bar of soap will show a color.  The color is then compared to a chart to find the pH level.

Photosensitizers-

A substance that once used on the skin will make the skin super sensitive to the sun or to sunlight;  increasing the chance of a sunburn in some people.

Preservative-

An ingredient that is added to a substance that will prevent the breakdown and spoilage from microbial growth.

Potassium Hydroxide-

Symbolized as KOH, this is used for lye solution of gel or liquid soaps.  Also known as caustic potash.  This ingredient is a very strong base with a pH of 14.  Note:  The SAP values of your recipes fats/butters/oils will vary depending on whether you are using sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or potassium hydroxide (KOH).

Rancidity-

The breakdown or spoilage of oils/butters/fats used in soaping.  Often, there is a stale or off smell due to the decomposition of the oil/butter/fat.

Rebatch-

Considered a do- over in the soap making process, this process involves the use of soap that was already crafted through CP or HP.  The processed bars are grated down and melted with a heat source, usually a crock pot, but other sources are used as well.  A liquid, like water or milk, is added to help prevent scorching of the soap shavings.  If a rebatch is being done due to an error, the correcting elements are added too.  The rebatch heats for 1 hour.  Once it is in a thick liquid form, any additives such as color, fragrance, or herbs, are added.  The thick batter is scooped out and molded.  Once cooled completely, the soap is removed, cut, and cured as usual.  Rebatching is generally done for two main reasons.  The first is to correct a soaping error or seize.  The second is for the addition of additives that may not survive or react badly during the saponification with active lye.  An example of these temperamental additives would be natural exfoliates.

Refined oils-

These are oils that have been filtered, removing any impurities in the oils.

Safety Equipment-

A category for all of the equipment used to keep one safe during the soaping process.  This equipment includes but is not limited to:  Safety goggles and/or face shield, rubber gloves,  a face mask, aprons, etc.  This category would also include items like protective coverings for work areas, fire extinguishers, bottles of neutralizing substances (such as vinegar for lye spills), first aid kit, etc.

Saponification-  

This is the process of the chemical reaction that the lye solution and oils/fats/butters go through when making soap.  Saponification produces both soap and glycerin.  Glycerin naturally occurs as a byproduct of this chemical reaction.

SAP Value-

The abbreviation for Saponification Value.  This refers to the number of milligrams of lye that is needed to completely saponify one gram of a specific oil/fat/butter in a soap recipe.  Note:  The SAP values of your recipes fats/butters/oils will vary depending on whether you are using sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or potassium hydroxide (KOH).

Seize-

A term referencing the condition of the soap batter when saponification has occurred enough that the batter is no longer a liquid, and has started to solidify.  This occurs while mixing together the ingredients of a soap recipe when the batter becomes too thick to mix easily or pour into a mold.

Soap Measurements-

Soap Measurements are measured in weight, not volume.

Soda Ash-

Sometimes forming on processed soaps, this powdery substance has no direct negative effect on soap bars.  Soda ash can be cut or wiped off bars.  Insulating soaps while in the mold will help prevent soda ash.  Soap that has soda ash can be sprayed with rubbing alcohol to improve the appearance of your soap.

Sodium Hydroxide-

Symbolized as NaOH, this is used for lye solution of solid bar of soap.  Also known as caustic soda.  This ingredient is a very strong base with a pH of 14.  This is the component that is interchanged with KOH (Potassium hydroxide) for saponifying gel or liquid soap recipes.  Note:  The SAP values of your recipes fats/butters/oils will vary depending on whether you are using sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or potassium hydroxide (KOH).

Soluable-

A substance that can be dissolved in a liquid.

Superfat-

This term involves purposely adding an excess of soaping oils or fats to your batter that are not included in your calculated recipe for lye saponification.  This is done to intentionally make your soap bars richer in soaping categories such as creaminess, moisturizing, bubbles, etc.

Surfactant-

A substance that reduces the surface tension of a liquid when it is dissolved.  In soap, surfactants allow for the dirt and impurities to be rinsed off of the skin.

Synthetic-

Something that is created chemically.  Not natural.

Tallow-

Rendered from animals, this is the hard fatty substance used for soap making.

Trace-

This term references the stage in the soaping process where the batter begins to thicken because of the saponification process. You will know if your soap batter is at trace by drawing up some of the batter with your spoon to see if it leaves any trails on top.  If the lines in the batter disappear, the batter is not in full trace.  If the lines stay visible on the surface, then your batter has traced.

Vegan-

Products that are produced without the use of any animal ingredients or animal parts.  If a product contains tallow/lard/beeswax, it cannot be vegan.

Volcano Effect-

This term describes when water is added to lye, WHICH SHOULD NEVER BE DONE!  The top layer of the lye starts to dissolve from the chemical reaction with the water.  Immediately, the water starts dissolving and releasing heat.  The heat causes a hard crust to form, and the water starts evaporating.  The lye that is below the crust remains dry, and untouched by the water.  As more water is added, pressure starts to build from the dissolving and heat release.  The crust ruptures from this pressure and force, causing the dry lye, partially dissolved lye, steam, and boiling water to spew out the top resembling and active volcano eruption.  ALWAYS ADD LYE TO WATER!

Volatile-

Oils that will evaporate quickly under normal temperatures.

Water Discount-

The method of purposely decreasing the amount of water that should be included in a soaping recipe.  Doing so will accelerate trace and the saponification process.  Not recommended for newbie soapers.

Soaping Abbreviations:

-KOH: Potassium hydroxide

-NaOH: Sodium hydroxide

-H20: water

-TD: Titanium Dioxide

-DHHP: Direct Heat Hot Process

-HP: Hot Process

-CP: Cold Process

-MP: Melt & Pour

-B&B: bath and body

-SB: Stick Blender (or shea butter)

-FO: Fragrance Oil

-EO: Essential Oil

-ISO : In Search Of (or in reference to isopropyl alcohol)

-SS : Skin Safe

-OOB: out of the bottle

-CPHP: Crock Pot Hot Process

-CPOP: Cold Process Oven Process

-DWCP, DW: Discounted Water Cold Process

-OHP: Oven Hot process

-DBHP : double boiler hot process

-DHHP : direct heat hot process

-MWHP : microwave hot process

-RT: Room temp

-AVG:  Aloe Vera Gel

-SAP:  Saponification values

-DOS:  Dreaded Orange Spots

-AO:   Animal Oil

-PKO: Palm Kernal Oil

-OMH: Oatmeal Milk & Honey

-OM: Oatmeal

-GM: Goats’ Milk

-CM: Coconut Milk

-PKF: palm kernel flakes

-EVOO: Extra virgin olive oil

-OO: olive oil

-SAO: Sweet Almond Oil