All about Soy
Soy wax is produced from
soybeans. It is a pure and natural
vegetable wax that is also considered kosher.
Not only is this wax non toxic, but it is also biodegradable. In fact, soy wax is very environmentally friendly
and is made from a renewable resource.
Soy wax is one of the most enjoyable waxes to work with. This is because soy wax is either in a pellet
or flake form. This form just makes
everything easier from the weighing of the wax out, to the clean up
The candles that are made from soy wax are very clean burning. Not only is there a reduction in soot, but
due to the makeup of soy itself, the burn time of a soy wax candle increases. This is because soy wax candles burn slower
and cooler; in relation to its counterpart paraffin.
To be completely honest, there are many reasons as to why soy wax candles are
so popular. But, it is also important to
note the disadvantages of working with soy wax.
Soy wax is very temperature sensitive.
Heating the wax over 200 degrees Fahrenheit for example will burn and
discolor the wax.
When it comes to the overall look of a finished candle, soy wax is in a world
of its own. Sometimes the finished soy
wax candle can look grainy. They also
have a tendency to frost. It is also
quite common for the tops of a soy wax candle to not be smooth and have a
flakey look to them.
There are 3 different types of soy wax that Natures Garden carries. All three types are Golden Foods Brand
Waxes. These waxes are NG 100% Soy Wax
(GF 415), Golden Foods Soy Wax 444, and Golden Foods Soy Wax 464.
NG 100% Soy Wax (Golden Foods 415)
This wax is 100% pure soy. There are no additives added to this natural
wax. As for melt point, GF 415 is
120-125 degrees Fahrenheit. This higher
melt point allows this wax to carry a higher fragrance load (up to 12% of scent
per pound of wax), therefore making a stronger scented candle. GF 415 can be blended with other waxes as
well. These waxes would include:
paraffin, beeswax, and microcrystalline waxes.
*The higher melt point of this wax helps with shipping candles in hotter
Golden Foods Soy Wax 444
What makes this wax different from the 415 is that there is a soy based
additive that is added to this wax. Yet,
GF 444 is still a natural wax. The
additive in this wax helps to combat some of the inefficiencies of the
415. First off, the additive increases
your pour temperature. With the 415, you
pour at 110 degrees Fahrenheit, and your wax will be somewhat in a slushy like
state. With the 444, you can pour at 135
degrees Fahrenheit, and your wax will still be in a fluid form. This additive also helps with the aesthetic
look of your finished candle. Using the
415, may result with frosting and an unsmooth top. With the 444, the additive reduces frosting
issues and also encourages a smoother finish in the wax.
Also maintaining a higher melt point, like the 415, GF 444 is 120- 125 degrees
Fahrenheit. This higher melt point also
allows this wax to hold a higher scent load (up to 12% of scent per pound);
making a stronger scented candle.
This wax can be blended with other waxes as well. These include: paraffin and microcrystalline waxes.
*The higher melt point of this wax helps with shipping candles in hotter
Golden Foods Soy Wax 464
This natural wax is very similar to the 444.
Also containing the soy based additive, GF 464 has an increased pour
temperature (135F), reduces frosting, and also has a smooth wax finish in a
candle. The main difference between the
GF 444 and GF 464 is the melt point. GF
464 has a melt point of 115-120 degrees Fahrenheit. This lower melt point allows for a better
glass adhesion in the finished candle.
Now, as for scenting this wax; the maximum scent load for this wax is
10-12%. However, we suggest keeping the
fragrance percent at 10 to reduce the possibility of fragrance oil seepage.
This wax can be blended with paraffin and microcrystalline waxes also.
Know How Much Wax
When figuring out how much wax you are going to need, here is the standard we
For measuring purposes, 20 ounces (weight) of
soy wax is equivalent to 16 ounces of fluid volume.
The Pour Line
It is important to know where to stop your pour in your containers when making
your candles. In order to guarantee the
best possible burn in your candles, the fill line has to be correct. The correct line in your containers is where
the jar begins to change shape before the top.
Filling to this point will allow a clean burn, without tunneling your
Scenting Soy Wax
When it comes to scenting your
soy wax, fragrance oils are the way to go. Luckily, Natures Garden just happens
to carry over 800 amazing candle scents.
IF you are wondering where a good starting place is for selecting which
fragrance oils are the best candle scents, please
click on this link to view the top 20 candle scents. These scents were nominated by our wonderful candle
The fragrance oils that are manufactured for candle making are formulated to
bind with soy wax and anchor themselves to provide both cold and hot throw in a
These scent throws are very important to candles. One of the most frustrating aspects to candle
making is to go through all of the research and steps, only to find that your
finished candle has no scent at all. We
believe that this main scenting issue can easily be solved by knowing when to
add your fragrance oil to your wax.
When seeking optimal results in your candles hot and cold throw, a fragrance
oils flash point must be taken into consideration. If you recall from earlier in the class,
temperature is everything for soy. Through
our testing we have found that the flash point of a fragrance oil will directly
correlate as to when the scent is added to the soy wax.
The flash point of a fragrance
oil is the temperature at which a fragrance will start to burn off. This burn off will directly affect the smell
of your finished candle. Always use
caution when adding a fragrance oil to hot wax, especially when the fragrance
oil has a lower flash point.
Now, it has been believed that in order for a fragrance oil to properly bind
with soy wax, it had to be added at 185 degrees Fahrenheit. This is not the case for every fragrance oil
though. The 185 degree temperature is
the highest degree a fragrance oil can be added to soy wax. Never
add a fragrance oil above 185 degrees, regardless of the flash point. This 185 degree temperature is the
temperature for the addition of any fragrance oil with a flash point of 185
degrees or higher.
Now, lets look at some fragrance oil flash points to decipher what is the
appropriate temperature to add them to the wax.
Royal B Fragrance Oil has a flash point of 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Since this flash point is above the 185
degree temperature, Royal B fragrance should be added at 185 degrees. This scent has a high enough flash point
where it will not experience any burn off.
Your finished candle will have a nice and full bodied scent throw, true
to the Royal B scent. This scent is an
example of a fragrance oil that is added to the soy wax at 185 degree
temperature, even though Royal B has a higher flash point.
Next, is Apple Orchard Fragrance Oil.
This fragrance has a flash point of 155 degrees Fahrenheit. Since this flash point is lower than the 185
degree temperature for fragrance addition; we do not want to add this fragrance
oil at 185 degrees. Doing so may cause
the fragrance to burn off, therefore changing the scent of the finished
candle. So, instead we will add this
scent to the wax at its flash point (155 degrees Fahrenheit). This degree will ensure the scenting of the
soy wax with the true apple orchard scent (without any burn off). This scent is an example of a fragrance oil
that is added at its own flash point.
Please Note: For many years, it has been
reported that you must add fragrance oil to melted soy wax at a temperature of
185F in order for the fragrance oils to bind with the wax. Our testing
has shown that this is simply not the case. Low flash point fragrance oils can
be added to melted soy wax as low as 130F (as we will discuss next); Just
be sure to agitate the wax with a full 2 minute stir (after the addition of the
scent) and you will have no oil seepage in your finished candle.
Now, for the lower end of the flash point spectrum: Although there are not many fragrance oils
with low flash points, there are a few.
Generally, they are your lighter fragrances like citruses. Blood Orange Fragrance Oil, for example, has
a flash point of 115 degrees Fahrenheit.
Typically, any fragrance oil that has a flash point lower than 130
degrees Fahrenheit; will be added at 130 degrees. So, you would add Blood Orange scent to your
melted wax at 130 degrees Fahrenheit.
You would then stir for a full 2 minutes to encourage the binding of the
scent to the wax. Now it should be
mentioned that adding the scent at this temperature will reduce the amount of
burn off, but it does completely prevent burn off from occurring. This is where anchoring the fragrance comes
Anchoring a fragrance oil quite simply is blending the fragrance oil (with the
lower flash point) with another fragrance oil (with a higher flash point). This addition of the second fragrance oil therefore
increases the overall fragrance flash point, making for a more stable scent.
As an example: In order to secure and
stabilize Blood Orange (flash point of 115 degrees) in soy wax, we want to
raise the flash point temperature to at least 130 degrees or higher. This can be done by adding Vanilla Extract
for example (which has a flash point of 330 degrees Fahrenheit). This addition will both anchor the fragrance
oil in the soy wax, as well as eliminate the fuel scent (a common issue with
citrus scents in soy due to burn off); simply by increasing the overall fragrance
To break down fragrance addition to simpler terms:
IF a fragrance oil is 185 degrees or higher, add it to the soy wax at 185
IF a fragrance oil is below 185 degrees, but is higher than 130 degrees, add it
to the soy wax at its own flash point- with a full 2 minute stir.
IF the fragrance oil is below 130 degrees, add it to the soy wax at 130
degrees- with a full 2 minute stir.
*But remember, anchoring a lighter fragrance oil (one that has a flash point
below 130 degrees) is also another option to help prevent burn off.
It was commonly believed that the only way to color soy wax was with color
blocks. These color blocks are dyes that
are dispensed in your wax medium. A
typical color block is 1/2 oz to 1 oz in weight.
A color block of this size will color up to 15 pounds of candle
wax. But, all it takes to color a
smaller batch (1 pound) is about 1 gram, depending on the darkness of the hue
you are looking for that is.
When adding your color block to the wax, there are a few things you should
note. First, using too much color block
in your candle wax may clog your wick (preventing the candle from burning properly). Color blocks may also create more smoke in
your candle as it burns. And again,
using too much color block will also inhibit your candles melt pool
capabilities, therefore hindering your scent throw. As well, using a color block in your candle wax
may leave color speckles if not completed dissolved.
In order to reduce the chance of color specks appearing in your finished
candle, you must make sure that your color block is fully dissolved in the
liquid wax. That is why we suggest
grading your color block, and adding your amount in small pieces. Added at 185 degrees in soy wax (which is the
temperature that allows soy wax to bind nicely with color), beautiful pastel
hues can be attained. It is difficult to
produce a vibrant color with color blocks because as you recall, an
overabundance of color block will clog your wick. If you are looking for a vibrant color that
is where liquid Spectrum candle dyes thrive.
Up until recently, it was believed Spectrum Liquid Candle Dye could not be used
to color soy candles. The main issue was
due to the solvent in the liquid dyes.
This however, is simply not the case.
Through our testing, we have found that spectrum liquid candle dye
produces gorgeous and vibrant colors in soy wax. Also added at the 185 degree temperature,
these liquid dyes are a breeze to work with (adding by single drops). Plus, with the fact that these dyes are very
concentrated, a little bit goes a very long way.
Crayons should never be used to color candles. Crayons are pigments that are suspended in
wax. These pigments will clog your
candle wick. Due to this fact, pigments
(like crayons or micas) should never be used.
Also, it should be noted never use soap dyes or food coloring to color candle wax. Candle colors should be achieved using candle
Ever wonder what the color of your candle is going to turn out to
be? When working with colored wax, the
best way to see what color the wax is going to be is to drop a few drips of the
colored wax onto a piece of white paper.
Once the wax drips harden, that will show you the color of your
candle. Remember, when adding color to
candle wax, start with a little bit first.
You can always add more color to wax, but you cannot take it away.
Soy Candle Wicking
One of the most crucial elements to your soy candle is your wick. The wick will actually make or break your
candle. In a candle, the lit wick is the
means (through a complete melt pool) to which your scent will permeate the air
(the hot scent throw). The wick will also determine your candles burn time and
wax burning power.
In order to make the best soy candle possible, you have to have the correct
wick. The correct wick is one that will
burn hot, and provide an appropriate sized flame (and also a flame that will
not flicker). It is important to
remember, as the wick works its magic, and the melted wax pool is pulled
through the capillaries of the wick, the scent is released. To read a fascinating article on the science
of candle wicks, please click on
There are a few varieties of wicks available at Natures Garden. Each wick type varies slightly, and in
general it is up to personal choice as to which one you want to use. This size of wick is where the crucial aspect
takes place, but more on that a little later.
Before committing to purchasing 100 wicks from Natures Garden, we also carry a wick
sampler pack. These packs
are available for the CD, HTP, and Hemp wicks.
Each sampler pack includes 5 wicks of that size. This is the best route for testing wick sizes
and ensuring a proper burn in your finished candle.
CD wicks are precut, prewaxed, and pretabbed.
They are a flat braided coreless (not containing a metal core) wick that
provides a very clean burn. When it does
come to the burn, these wicks burn very hot, making them the perfect choice for
soy wax. We highly suggest using this
wick for soy wax candles. The CD wick is
also almost self trimming. This is due
to the fact that the tip of the wick bends slightly as it burns. This wick is a very popular choice in both
soy and veggie waxes, reducing mushrooming, soot, and smoke.
HTP wicks are an all cotton braided wick.
This wick also burns hot, making it a good choice for soy, veggie, and
gel waxes. The main highlight of this
wick is that it is structurally strong and provides less smoking and
mushrooming in a finished candle.
Hemp wicks are all natural. They too
provide a hotter burn. The wicks are
pretabbed and prewaxed. Another great
and popular selection for soy and veggie waxes.
Wooden wicks are super easy to use and great for soy wax candles. These soft wood series wooden wicks also work
with gel wax, vegetable waxes, and most paraffin waxes.
Selecting the Right Sized Wick
In order to know which wick size you need, you must first know what candle
container you are using. Selecting the
correct wick size correlates directly to your candle containers diameter.
To find your candle container diameter, simply grab your container and a
ruler. Place your container upside down,
and then place your ruler horizontally across the bottom. This will tell you what your diameter of your
candle container is in inches. Once you
have this information, and you know what kind of wick you would like to use, it
is time to move on to the wick chart to select your size. You can see this chart by clicking this link.
Wick Factors to Consider with Soy
Even with all of this information to consider there are still some more factors
to contemplate. To review, wick size can be dependent upon 4 factors. They are:
Now, if your candle container is larger or uniquely shaped, it is very common
to double or triple wick. This type of
wicking involves using multiple wicks in your jar. This method ensures that your candle will
have an excellent wet pool (melting wax).
The goal of a perfect wet pool is that it touches all sides of your jar.
Depending on which fragrance oil you use in your soy candle, you may need to
wick up. The term wicking up means
purposely using a larger wick than what your candle container diameter needs. This is an advantage in candles because it
allows for a hotter burn therefore increasing the candles melt pool.
Wicking up is also an advantage when it comes to the hot throw (the scent in
the air when a candle is lit) of the candle.
In order for a candle to have the best possible hot scent throw, the
fragrance oil needs to be in a volatile state.
What this means is that the fragrance oil needs to readily evaporate
into the air.
As mentioned earlier, vanilla fragrance oils tend to have a higher flashpoint,
what this means is that they almost always require a wick up in order to help
release the vanilla aroma into the air.
This is due to the fact that vanilla scents are thicker in consistency
and wicking up will inhibit the candle wick from clogging. This will also help with preventing your wick
from drowning out as well. Vanillas
however are not the only candidates that require a wick up. Fragrance oils with heavier base notes will
too. Ensuring the best hot throw for
your candles, any fragrance that has heavy (dominate) base notes of patchouli,
vetiver, amber, and musk should also be wicked up.
As a rule of thumb, anytime you are using a vegetable wax you should wick
up. Using the next sized wick for your
candle will ensure that your candles burn will be hot enough to melt your
wax. Remember, the key to the best
candle possible always lies with the wick.
In order to attain the perfect melt pool (one that will essentially
leave no left over wax in your candle) you wick needs to be hot to battle those
hotter wax melt points (120-125F for both GF 415 and GF 444, and 115-120F for
GW464). That same melt pool (the fuel to
the wick) is also responsible for your candles hot scent throw.
In order to achieve the perfect color in your candle, sometimes you need to use
a little extra colorant. If this is true
for your candles, it may also be necessary to wick up once again. Candle dyes are literally dyes that are
dissolved in your candle wax. If you
used a heavier amount of dye to achieve a bold color, you risk the dyes
clogging your candle wick. This occurs
when the wick draws from its fuel source, the melt pool. The best way to combat a potential clogged
wick in this situation is to wick up.
As mentioned earlier, wicks are the vessel for your candles hot scent
throw. In order to ensure the best hot
scent throw possible, your candles wick must be the appropriate size; but also
centered and straight. Keeping the wick
centered and straight can be a tricky, especially while the candle wax is still
liquid. There are however, some tricks
of the trade. For our candle testing
purposes: After we have poured the
candle wax, we slide the wicks of the candle into the teeth of a barber
comb. This barber comb then lies flat across
your candle container; holding the wicks in place until the wax has
hardened. For other great tips that
candle makers use to keep their wicks straight, please click on this link.
Also, one of
Natures Gardens amazing customers, Angie Chism made a wonderful how to video
covering her tips to keeping candle wicks centered. To see her video, please click on this link.
While most soy wax candle makers do not use synthetic additives (vybar 260),
some candle makers do. Vybar 260 can be
used in soy wax candles to help extend scent throw in your candles. Used at an amount of 1/4 to 1/2 tsp per 16oz of
wax will accomplish this and provide very nice results. Physically speaking the addition of vybar
will make your candle wax more opaque looking, and a marbleized top portion of
Now, please note: Vybar will raise your candles melt point, as
well as make your wax consistency harder.
Now, the use of vybar 260 does
come with a precaution. If you add too
much of this, it will trap your scent, prohibiting scent throw. What this means, is there will be little to
no scent throw in your finished candle.
Heating your Candle Jars
The reason why you want to warm your candle jars in the oven is to reduce the
occurrence of frost and wet spots.
Frost is the appearance of white or a lighter variation of color in your
wax. Frost however will not directly
affect your candle burn, or the functionality of your candle. It is only an aesthetic issue, and may occur
in soy candles from time to time.
Wet Spots in candles are spots or patches that occur in container candles. They are extremely common in container
candles, but are especially noticeable when your candle container is glass or
transparent. These spots appear to have
air or wetness that is trapped between the candle wax and the candle
container. Wet spots occur when the
candle wax simply does not adhere to the container. Just like frost, they are an aesthetic issue
only, and have no affect on the functionality of your candle.
Soy Candle Making Tip
Soy wax naturally will have a frosted look in the finished
candle. This is especially true for the
GW415. Although many people who burn soy
candles are aware of this, you can reduce this look from your candles, by
heating the tops of the finished candles with a hair dryer.
Testing Your Candles
Once you have a finished candle, there are a few physical results that will
indicate if you are using the wrong wick size.
That is why it is crucial to have a few test candles to burn before
selling or giving your candles away to loved ones and friends.
An average sized lit candle that has been burning for 2-3 hours should have
established a full melt pool by this time.
A full melt pool is melted wax that is touching all sides of your candle
jar. If you notice that your candle has
only a melt pool around your wick (or only in the middle), this is
tunneling. Tunneling is an indicator
that the wick size you are currently using is not large enough for your
candle. A tunneled wick may also result
with a wick that continually extinguishes on its own (drowning out). This could be due to one or more of the 4
wick size indicators: Container Diameter, Fragrance Oil, Candle Wax, or
Colorant. To correct, either double wick
your candles, or wick up to the next wick size.
The Memory Burn
It is important to know, as well as stress to the people that are purchasing or
burning your candles; a memory burn should always be the first burn your
candles should experience. A memory burn
is essentially a complete wet pool of melted wax. This wet pool will encompass the entire top
portion of your candle (and be approximately 1/2 inch in depth). What the memory burn establishes is a
guarantee that every time the candle is lit, it will retain the memory of a
full melt pool. This will reduce
tunneling and the excess of unmelted wax along the sides of the jar, leaving
Another advantage to a memory burn is the hot scent throw. Ensuring a memory burn in your candles will
allow every gram of scented wax to be used.
Now that we have reviewed the essential
background of soy candles, it is time to look at the equipment.
Soy Candle Making Equipment
The general equipment and supplies that you need for candle making pretty much
stays the same, regardless. These items
Scale- Eliminate overage. When everything is measured out perfectly, it
takes away the guessing.
Thermometer- In order to add your
fragrance and color at the proper temperature, you will need a thermometer.
Pouring Pot- Perfect size for making
a 4 pound batch of candles. This pot also
has a sturdy handle, and spout for the candle pour.
The double boiler method is the only melting method recommended with
wax. Having a pot (or roaster pan)
designated for candle making makes this process easy.
Warning Labels- Whether you are selling
and giving your candles away as a gift, warning labels cover instructions for
use and safety precautions.
Cookie Sheet- Warming your jars for
soy candles is one of the best ways to prevent frosting.
Stirring Spoon- Fully stirring your
melted wax is the best way to bind both color and scent. Stainless steel spoons work best.
Hot Glue Gun/ Glue Dots- Either one can be used to adhere the wick to
the bottom of your candle container.
A Testing Notebook- Taking notes
during the candle making process will help ensure a repeatable outcome time and
Please Note: Many times some of the
equipment used for making candles can be every day kitchen items like stirring
spoons, measuring bowls, cookie sheet, etc.
It is important to know that once your candle making equipment has come
into contact with fragrance oils or candle dyes, those items should strictly be
used for candle making purposes only.
Not only can fragrance oils eat through (melt) certain plastics, but once
an item has been used for candle making, it should not be used for food again.
Steps to Making a Soy Candle
Prior to making a soy wax candle, you will want to have all of the supplies
and equipment in your work area. Once
you have all of that gathered, look at the flashpoint of your fragrance
oil. This temperature will let you know
when you are adding it to the melted wax.
Regardless of the soy wax you will be using:
As a rule of thumb: If a fragrance flash point is below 130F, then add it to wax at
130F. If the fragrance oil flash point
is between 130-185F, then add the fragrance to the wax at its flash point. If a fragrance oil has a flash point above
185F, then add the fragrance to the wax at 185F.
Also, it should be noted that even though you can pour the GW 444 and GW
464 at 135 degrees Fahrenheit, our testing has shown that the best looking
finished candle is one that is poured at 110 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature allows for the smoothest
finish in your candle; regardless of what type of soy wax you are using.
Step 1: The first step when making a
soy wax candle is to start melting your wax.
When melting any wax type, the double boiler process is always
recommended. This process will ensure
that your wax melts properly at an even rate.
This process also allows for a thermometer in order to best monitor your
wax temperature. The double boiler
process involves getting a pot (or roaster) and
placing a few inches of water into it.
Then, place your pot on the stove tops at a medium heat setting. If you are using a roaster, turn it on a
medium heat setting.
Step 2: Now, while your water is heating, weigh out
your soy wax. Once you have the amount
you are looking for, place all of it into your pouring pot. Next, place your pouring pot into the pot (or
roaster). As the water heats up, it will
begin to transfer heat to your pouring pot, therefore melting the wax. This is the double boiler
Step 3: Once you notice that your wax is starting to melt, place your thermometer
into the pouring pot. This is the best
way to monitor your soy wax temperature.
Do Not let the temperature go above 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Occasionally stir the wax as it melts.
Step 4: While you are waiting for
your wax to completely melt, set your oven to 170 degrees Fahrenheit. Now, while the oven is warming, place your
glass candle jars onto a cookie sheet.
When your oven is ready, carefully place the cookie sheet in. Allow your jars to warm at this temperature
for 10-15 minutes. Once that time has
elapsed, remove the cookie sheet from the oven.
You will also want to plug in your hot glue gun now (if you are using
glue dots, you do not need a glue gun).
Step 5: Check the temperature of
the wax. Once it hits 185 degrees Fahrenheit,
remove the pouring pot from the heat source.
Now, add your candle colorant and stir well.
If your fragrance oil flash point is
above 185 degrees Fahrenheit: add
your fragrance oil to the melted wax (after the color) at 185 degrees
Fahrenheit. Stir well for at least 2
minutes. This intensive stirring will
help the fragrance oil and color bind with the wax. Place your thermometer back into the wax.
If your fragrance oil flash point is
below 185 degrees but above 130 degrees Fahrenheit: add your fragrance oil to the melted wax at
its flash point. Stir well for at least
2 minutes. This intensive stirring will
help the fragrance oil and color bind with the wax. Place your thermometer back into the wax.
If your fragrance oil flash point is
below 130 degrees Fahrenheit: add
your fragrance to the melted wax at 130 degrees. This will not completely prevent scent burn
off. Remember, with lower flash point
fragrances, you may want to anchor the scent by blending in another higher
flash point scent. Stir well for at
least 2 minutes. This intensive stirring
will help the fragrance oil and color bind with the wax. Place your thermometer back into the
Step 6: Next, using your hot glue gun (or glue dots), secure and center your
wicks to the bottom of your candle container.
Step 7: Place your warning label
on the bottom of your jar.
Step 8: Check the temperature
of the wax. When the temperature reaches
110 degrees Fahrenheit, it will be safe to pour. Give your wax one final stir before
pouring. Through our testing, we have
found that pouring at this temperature will allow your soy candles the best
chance to have a smoother finished surface.
Step 9: Now, slowly pour the wax into your candle jar. You will want to stop the pour where the
candle jar changes shape.
Step 10: Now, straighten your
Step 11: Once your candles
have been poured, allow them to fully set up undisturbed. When the candles have fully hardened, lid
Step 12: Allow your candle to
cure for 24-48 hours.
Step 13: When your candle has cured;
trim your wick. Your Soy Wax Candle is
now finished and ready to burn. Enjoy!
Allowing your candles to cure will provide for the best possible cold
throw. Trapping the scent (by placing a
lid on your candle containers) keeps the scent where it should be (with the
wax) and enables the wax to absorb the scent even further. A typical cure time for candles is 24-48
For a Proper Burn
Do not forget the memory burn should always be the first burn of your
candles. It is also essential to keep
your wick trimmed to 1/4 inch to ensure the proper burn. And, keep the wick trimmings out of the
As for placement, do not place your burning candle anywhere there are fans or
drafts, this will prevent your candle from burning properly and evenly, as well
as possibly cause your wick to move and smoke as it burns.
In closing, we hope that this class has helped to answer some of the
questions you have about making soy candles.
We tried to make this class as thorough as possible. Though it is true that there are many things
to take into consideration when making a soy candle, the results of working
with this wonderful and natural wax far exceed your expectations.
If you are interested in making soy wax candles, Natures Garden offers
wholesale candle making
If you are curious and want to try soy wax candle making, we have a
wonderful Soy Wax Kit
to get you started on your