What you will need:
-Wax (single pour WOW Wax )
-Coloring (you choose: color blocks, liquid dyes, powder dyes, color chips)
- Pouring pot
-Fragrance (oil-based, 100% concentrated and designed for candlemaking) –You’ll need 1 oz. to 1.5oz. of fragrance oil per pound of melted wax.
-Candle Additives (vybar 260, Crisco Shortening) optional
-Heat source (stove, hot plate, oven)
-Melting heat source (you choose: turkey roaster, presto pot, hot water heater)
The turkey roaster that I am referring to is an electric unit with a heat control knob on it. It holds 25 lbs. of wax. Hamilton Beach sells theses at stores like K Mart, and Ames.
-Stainless steel measuring cups and measuring spoons (fragrance oil will eat through plastic measuring cups)
-Stainless pitcher for transferring your melted wax from your roasters to your pouring pots on the stove
-Containers for single-pour candles
-Pan at least 13 X 9 with 1/2" water in it (This can hold 2 pouring pots at a time). This will be used as your double boiler.
-Wicks (CD wicks or Zinc core wicks work the best with WOW Wax)
-A room temperature environment of about 70 degrees - No drafts and no fans running.
-Floor mats or cardboard for your floors
-Scales for weighing wax
-Hot Glue Gun and Glue Sticks (optional)
Procedure to follow for making 4 pounds of candles
1. Weigh 4 pounds of WOW wax on a scale.
2. Turn your oven on 150-200 degrees F. Put your empty glass candle containers on a tray and put them in the oven to get warm. You want your glass containers to be about 150F when pouring into them. You never want to pour hot wax into a cold container because this will cause your wax to set up too quickly and your candles will develop jump lines.
3. Put 1/2" of water in your 13 X 9 pan on the stove. Set your temperature setting on your stove to low to medium. Get your pouring pots, color, additives, fragrance, containers, and wicks ready for the candlemaking process.
4. Put the 4 pounds of WOW wax into a clean pouring pot.
5. Put the pouring pot in the 13 X 9 pan that is on the stove, and allow your wax to melt. You never want to melt wax with the pouring pot directly on the heat source. This can become a fire hazard and/or can result in your wax becoming scorched. If your wax becomes scorched, it will smell like burnt oil or like burnt fuel. If you notice that your wax smells like this, it is ruined. You cannot correct wax that has become scorched.
6. Check the temperature of your melted wax periodically with a candy thermometer. You will want to get WOW WAX up to 190 degrees F. Be careful not to get your wax too hot or it will become scorched (as mentioned above).
7. Add 1-10 drops of liquid candle dye to the melted wax. Stir. When using liquid candle dye, we suggest never using more than 10 drops of dye per 4 pounds of melted wax. Using more than that will cause your candles to smell somewhat like chemicals. If you desire rich, dark colors, you may want to use candle blocks instead of liquid candle dye. It is at this time you can add candle additives to your melted wax. For this particular wax, you can use ½ tsp. vybar 260 per 4 pounds of melted wax. You may also wish to use 4 oz. of Crisco Shortening to your melted wax. Neither of these additives are required.
8. Remove warm glass candle containers from oven and place on a heat resistant surface. Line them up so that they will be ready to have hot wax pouring into them.
9. Remove pouring pot from heat and allow the temperature of the WOW Wax to drop to 170 degrees F.
10. Add 1 oz. to 1.5 oz. of fragrance oil per pound of melted wax to your melted wax mixture. Quickly stir, and begin pouring the hot wax mixture into the glass containers. Make sure that you stop pouring at the point where you see your candle jar start changing shape. If you fill your jars too full, you may develop sink holes.
11. Wicking candles is much easier when you use the pretabbed prewaxed zinc core or CD type wicks. Allow your candles to cool a little while until you see that the bottom of the container has about 1" of candle setting up. Now, straighten your wicks, and place them in the candle.... properly spaced apart and centered. The wicks will actually stick to the bottom of the containers. We use (2) 5" wicks in our 16 oz. apothecary. When making candles that contain more than 1 wick, make sure that the wicks are not too close to the sides of the container. This will increase the amount of soot on the sides of the candle.....and customers do not like that! Of course if you are making candles that are smaller than the 16 oz. apothecary jar, you will not want to wait until 1" of the candle has set up before you wick. In the case of 3 oz. flowerpots, for example, you will want to start wicking your containers once you see about 1/4" of the candle setting up. If you try to wick your candles too soon, your wicks will move position and will not be properly spaced apart. If you wick your candles too late, your wicks will not migrate to the bottom of the container. You can also use a hot glue gun to center and stick your wicks to the bottom of your containers, however this is not necessary. If you decide to use the glue gun, you will need to have your containers wicked prior to pouring the hot wax.
12. Cooling your candles-For the best results, allow your candles to cool at room temperature without any drafts. Double check your wicks to see that they are straight and centered before letting your candles set up all of the way.
13. Do not place lids on your apothecary jars until the candles have had a chance to set up at least 3 hours. Putting the lid on too quickly will cause condensation on the glass lid ofyour container.....not pretty!
14. Allow your candles to cure (set for at least 3 days so that the fragrance fully binds to the wax) before burning. You will want to cure your candles with their lids on (after they are completely set up and not warm).
For the complete How to Make Container Candles click the "Download Class" button above.