Tag Archives: soap

Aug
27

Apple Cinnamon – Body Safe Fragrance

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Apple Cinnamon - Body Safe FragranceApple Cinnamon – Body Safe Fragrance Oil Spotlight

Finally done with almond scents, we move onto apple fragrances. Trust me, there are plenty more apple fragrance blogs to come. But why wouldn’t there be? Apples smell absolutely delicious. Not to mention the taste, but no matter how good fragrance oil smells, we never eat it. Apple Cinnamon – Body Safe is a perfect autumn aroma. As fall approaches, it’s heartwarming to smell the sweet, spicy scent of apples and cinnamon, reminiscent of a nice, hot cup of apple cider.

What Does Apple Cinnamon – Body Safe Fragrance Oil Smell Like?

If you’re looking for a wonderful blend of apples and cinnamon without an overkill of bakery base notes, then our apple cinnamon fragrance oil is just for you!  The aroma of a red juicy McIntosh apple, sprinkled with freshly ground cinnamon sticks.  Best of all, this fragrance is body safe!  It is both an NG Original Scent and a best seller!

How Do Our Customers Use Apple Cinnamon – Body Safe Fragrance Oil?

Candles, of course. This apple cinnamon aroma is ideal for creating succulently-scented decorative candles. Apple Cinnamon fragrance oil performs perfectly in joy wax and wow wax, and is nice and strong in soy wax. The maximum recommended usage percentage in vegetable waxes and paraffin wax is 10%. Apple Cinnamon – Body Safe is not gel wax compatible (but it is body safe- and we’ll get to that). Our coloring recommendations for candles are to use two drops of red liquid candle dye and two drops of brown liquid candle dye per four pounds of wax or shred a small amount of cinnamon color block into your melted wax.

Surely they make sweetly, spicy-scented soaps, and other bath and body products. This is where the “body safe” part is important. The maximum recommended usage percentage for this fruity fall fragrance in soaps, bath oils, bath gels, and cleaning products is 5%. We’ve found that Apple Cinnamon – Body Safe performed well in bath and body products. Our cold process soap testing results found that in CP soap, Apple Cinnamon – Body Safe caused slight acceleration, no ricing, no separation, and discolors to a light beige, with good scent retention. Our coloring recommendations for soap are: use red soap dye in the amount that satisfies you (of our four red soap colorants, I would recommend Tomato Red or Red Oxide- but it’s ultimately your decision, so do whatever you’d like!)

We’ve got this awesome 3D Apple Mold (that I’m going to be pushing a lot with all of the upcoming apple aromas) that you can use to make life-sized apple soaps! You could even get crafty and use this mold to make an apple-shaped candle. Simply use wick pins in the mold while pouring your wax (I’m not sure how simple it is, I just thought it was a neat idea, maybe someday I will have time to test it out! I’ll get back to you on that.)

This amazing autumn aroma is also perfect for perfumes and lotions. It performed perfectly in perfume and the maximum recommended usage percentage for lotions and perfumes is 5%.

Why not fill your whole house with this sweet cinnamon scent? The maximum recommended usage percentage for Apple Cinnamon – Body Safe fragrance oil in incense and potpourri is 50%. It comes across nice and strong in aroma beads.

Jul
28

Acorn Harvest Fragrance

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, candle fragrance oils, candle making supplies, cold process soap, Fragrance Oils, Natures Garden, Natures Garden Fragrance Oils, Soap making supplies, Uncategorized and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

acorn harvest fragranceAcorn Harvest Fragrance Oil – Fragrance Oil Spotlight

Feeling squirrely? Then you’ll go nuts for this fragrance oil! Imagine walking through the oak trees in the crisp fall air. You take a deep breath and suddenly something hits you on the head. Is the sky falling?! Don’t be ridiculous, loosey goosey, it’s just an acorn. But ouch, yeah, those lil things sure pack a wallop when they fall from a tall oak tree. You look up to see where it came from and you hear a squirrel chattering. Weird. Squirrels make the weirdest noises. Almost like chirping but also yelling? You decide to high tail it out of there before the squirrel gets anymore ideas. The squirrel can rest easy knowing that his acorns buried in the ground, stored for later, are safe, for now.

What Does Acorn Harvest Fragrance Smell Like?

Acorn Harvest is a very unique, Nature’s Garden Original Fragrance Oil. It is comprised of a warm, earthy, nutty aroma paired with rich buttery vanilla notes. It’s nuts. You’ll feel like you’re standing directly under an oak tree in autumn. What better place is there to be?

How Do Our Customers Use Acorn Harvest Fragrance Oil?

For candle makers, this is just what you’re looking for – Acorn Harvest performs perfectly in joy wax, wow wax, and is nice and strong in soy wax. It is not gel wax compatible. For coloring candles, we suggest using 3 drops of orange and 2 drops of yellow liquid candle dye per 4 pounds of wax. Another coloring suggestion is to shred a small amount of an orange and a yellow color block into your melted wax. Just remember not to try to color your candle with a crayon or you’ll clog the wick! Burn an Acorn Harvest scented candle near an open window and watch the squirrels come a-runnin’.

For incense and potpourri, the maximum usage rate is 50% and Acorn Harvest is nice and strong in aroma beads. We’ve got a fun Autumn Leaves Potpourri recipe you could use this fragrance in, just substitute Autumn Woods fragrance for Acorn Harvest. They have the same usage percentages in potpourri so you should be okay if you stick to the original recipe.

For soap, bath oils, bath gels, lotions, perfumes, and cleaning products, the recommended maximum usage is 5%. Our cold process soap testing results show that Acorn Harvest fragrance does not cause acceleration of your soap batter, there is no separation, no ricing, and the soap retains its gorgeous scent. The fragrance oil discolors CP soap to a dark chocolate brown – the color of acorns..! (Almost.) If you don’t want brown soap, be sure to get some Vanilla White Color Stabilizer to help with discoloration, or add colorful dyes. We recommend using orange soap colorant in the amount that satisfies you (this particular colorant works well in melt and pour and cold process soaps).

We’ve also got some cute little Oak Leaves & Acorns embed molds that you could use to make soap samples or potpourri tarts. Just don’t let the squirrels get their little claws on them!

Apr
09

Fragrance Testing in CP Soap

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fragrance testing in CP soapFragrance Testing in CP Soap

Hello everyone! Do you have any questions about what happens when we test our fragrances? Specifically with fragrance testing in CP soap? Well, we actually go through this process with all of our fragrances and there are quite a few specific things we look for throughout.

To start off, when making a normal soap recipe, we recommend soaping at room temperature (72 degrees Fahrenheit). However, for fragrance testing, we soap at 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Using this temperature will give you less time to “play” with the soap, and will basically force the fragrance to show any problems it may have more quickly.

For fragrance testing, we use our free recipe for our Shea Butter Soap; a recipe that includes Olive Oil, Shea Butter, Coconut Oil, and Palm Oil.

Step 1:  Determining if a fragrance sample designed by our perfumist smells good enough for us to soap test.  We call this stage “Test Stripping”.  We start by putting a little bit of each fragrance onto a test strip (blotter paper) and smell them.  The initial smell of scent on a test strip allows us to see how strong the “top notes” of a fragrance is.  Then we let the test strips sit for about half an hour, then check to see if the scent has stayed, lessened, or gotten stronger. During this stage of smelling, we are able to notice more of the middle notes and base notes of the scent.  You see, at Natures Garden, we typically reject hundreds of scents each year during the test stripping alone.  For scents that do make the cut, we move on to step number 2.

Step 2:  Testing the fragrance in soap.  Once we have made our recipe and have added the correct amount of fragrance (typically 5% fragrance per batch unless IFRA is less), there are quite a few things we look for. We look for and record if there is any acceleration.  Acceleration is when a fragrance oil causes the soap to trace at a faster rate than soap without fragrance would.  When a fragrance oil causes accelerated trace, a soap maker must move faster when working with the soap.  This can also make it more difficult to create colored swirls in your soap.

We also look for ricing, (soap batter that looks like rice pellets).  Typically soap that rices can be beat into submission with a stick blender.  We look for separation (fragrance will not mix with the soap, oils keep separating from the soap).

Sometimes fragrance oil will separate out of the soap batter.  Usually fragrance oil will absorb back into the soap during cure, but if the oil separation is full-blown, it may cause even cured soap to be oily.

We also look for seizing (fragrance causes the soap to set up as soon as it as added).  Soapers refer to this as “Soap on a stick”.  Sometimes soapers are able to beat the batter back into submission with a stick blender, and other times it is impossible.  Seized soap is not ruined soap, it is just soap that is no longer pliable.  If allowed to cure, seized soap can be used just like soap that you had no problems making.

While cold process soap normally should cure for about 6 weeks, we oven-process soap for our fragrance testing. Oven-processing the soap in molds for about 2 1/2 hours on a temperature of about 170 degrees Fahrenheit will help the soap to cure faster, and you will only need to let it cure for about 4 weeks. When oven-processing the soap, you may see some separation. The fragrance may rise to the top of the soap and separate, but most of the time, the soap will reabsorb the oil.  Oven processing also allows us to see some discoloration (if the soap is going to discolor).  Typically, if a soap shows discoloration after oven processing, it will continue to discolor more during the cure phase.

After the soaps have finished their oven-process time, they can be unmolded 24 hours later. If any of the fragrances have separated during this process, wait until they reabsorb to unmold the soap. If they never reabsorb, you will know that that fragrance has a separation problem.

There are a few other things that we look for once we have taken them from the oven. We check for if the scent of each fragrance has changed or morphed throughout the saponification process. However, always remember not to judge the scent right away. Even if it has changed throughout the saponification process, wait to judge until after it has had enough time to fully cure, as it may change back.

We also look to see if there is any fragrance burn off that occurs during saponification, meaning that the fragrance may not smell as strong anymore or the notes you noticed in the beginning no longer exist. Usually, fragrance oils will not have a  major burn off problem as they contain fixatives that help to anchor the scent. However, lower flash point scents have a higher chance of some burn-off than higher flash point scents.  Some soapers add clay to their soap batter to help anchor their scents.  Essential oils do not contain fixatives, so if you are testing essential oils, you will have more of a chance of burn-off than you would with fragrance oils.

Another thing we check for after unmolding is for discoloration. Fragrances that contain vanillin can cause discoloration, but it is mainly with fragrances that have a content of above .5%.

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Oven Processing

 

 

 

Soaps for fragrance testing should sit and cure for about 4 weeks. Throughout that time period, we check to see if the scent of each fragrance sticks and stays strong throughout the whole time. Once in a while, a fragrance may come along that will not work in cold process soap and never will. Make sure to remember that if you come across a fragrance like this, it will work in hot process soaps! Once the 4 weeks has passed, we check again to see if any final discoloration or separation has happened and how well the fragrance has stuck. Make sure to check out our free class for our Fragrances Tested in Cold Process Soap. This class gives a full list of all of our fragrances that we have tested, as well as the recipe for our Shea Butter Soap that we use for testing.

Make sure to check out all the rest of our free classes and recipes as well! Keep watching for more Enlightened by Layla!

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Apr
06

Making Taiwan Swirl Soap

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, free recipe, Natures Garden, soap, Soap making supplies, soap recipe, Uncategorized and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

making taiwan swirl soapMaking Taiwan Swirl Soap

For all the soap makers out there, have you ever tried making Taiwan Swirl soap before? I’ve been experimenting with making so many soaps lately, and this one turned out absolutely beautifully! We’re bringing you the free recipe for this wonderful soap so that you can make it yourself! This is one soap that your friends, family, and even your customers are sure to love! We have used our Shea Butter Cold Process Soap recipe for the base.

 

Ingredients:

125 grams of Lye

272 grams of Shea Butter

272 grams of Olive Oil

181 grams of Palm Oil

181 grams of Coconut Oil

345 grams of Distilled Water

72 grams of NG Water Lily & Jasmine Type Fragrance Oil

11 grams of Titanium Dioxide 

11 drops of Neon Pink FUN Soap Colorant

10 drops of Neon Blue FUN Soap Colorant

10 drops of Ultramarine Violet FUN Soap Colorant

Other Ingredients Needed:

Square Loaf Mold Market Mold

Thermometer

Safety Gloves

Safety Mask

Safety Glasses

Vinegar

Scale

Stick Blender

Barbecue Skewers

Spatulas

Mixing Bowls

Cardboard or Straight Dividers for Soap Making

Directions:

making taiwan swirl soap

 

When working with lye, always make sure to wear your protective glasses, mask, and gloves! Start by preparing your lye water. Measure and weigh out 345 grams of distilled water and 125 grams of lye. Carefully pour the lye into the water. Never pour water into lye as this can cause an explosion! Mix thoroughly and set your lye water aside to cool.

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

While you’re waiting for that to cool, go ahead and get your butters and oils ready. Measure and weigh out 181 grams of Palm Oil, 272 grams of Olive Oil, 181 grams of Coconut Oil, and 272 grams of Shea Butter. Melt them down completely and set them aside to cool as well.

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

 

You can also prepare your colors as you’re waiting for those to cool. In three separate bowls, measure out 11 drops of Neon Pink colorant, 10 drops of Ultramarine, and 10 drops of Neon Blue. In another bowl, measure out 11 grams of Titanium Dioxide and pour in just a little bit of oil. Mix them together until it has a become a paste-like consistency.

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

You can also prepare your diving tool. We have used just regular cardboard to divide our soap, however you can also use a straight soap divider! Place your division tool inside your mold at this point to make it easier for you later!

 

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

Keep checking the temperatures of your lye water and oils using your thermometer. Once they have reached around room temperature (72 degrees Fahrenheit) and are within ten degrees of each other, they are ready to combine. Carefully pour your lye water into your oils and mix them together thoroughly.

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

 

When they are completely mixed, pour 358 grams of the mixture into each colored bowl. In a separate bowl, pour the last 358 grams and add your titanium paste. Mix all of these thoroughly until you have achieved all over white, pink, blue, and purple colors.

 

 

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

 

Then add 18 grams of Water Lily & Jasmine Type fragrance to each bowl, again mixing them thoroughly.

 

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

Now your soap will be ready to pour. Make sure your dividers go all the way to the bottom of the mold. We poured our pink first, into the first division on our mold. Leave a little bit in the bowl for the top of the soap. Repeat this will each other color.

 

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

Once you have finished pouring your soap, carefully remove your dividers from your soap. Once we removed our dividers, we used a skewer to swirl the base of our soap going in a mantra swirl from side to side across the whole soap.

 

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then pour the rest of each color on top in a straight line.

 

 

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

 

Using a skewer, place it down into just the top of your soap and begin to swirl, again in a manta swirl from side to side.

 

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

 

After your manta swirl, place the skewer in a corner of your soap and drag it from end to end in a Taiwan swirl across the whole top of your soap.

 

 

After you have swirled your soap, it will need to set up for at least 24 hours before removing it from the mold. Once your Taiwan Swirl soap has been removed from its mold, it will need to sit for at least 4 to 6 weeks, giving it enough time to cure and become less alkaline. Make sure to check out all the rest of our free recipes and classes as well! Watch out for more Enlightened by Layla!

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Apr
06

Taiwan Soap Problems

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taiwan soap problemsTaiwan Soap Problems

Hello everyone! As I’m sure you all know, lately I’ve been experimenting with making many different soap recipes. One of the recipes I made this week was actually a Taiwan Swirl Soap. It seemed like such a gorgeous idea and I figured I could handle that! Well, I actually ended up making this soap twice, because the first time I tried out this recipe, I ended up having quite a few problems! However, being a beginner, these problems were actually a great learning experience.

One of my first problems was temperature. In cold process soap making, you have to wait for your lye water and oils to cool down to the right temperature before creating your soap. The most common temperature used is around 100 degrees Fahrenheit. However, for cold process soaping, if you wait until your lye and oils have gone down to room temperature (72 degrees Fahrenheit) and are within ten degrees of each other, the lower temperature will actually give you more time to work and create your soap. On my first batch of this soap, I did not wait to soap at 72 degrees. Instead, I began the soap making process at 100 degrees. The higher temperatures gave me less time to work and my soap ended up setting up much faster than I wanted!

Because my soap set up faster than I wanted, I had problems creating my swirls in this batch of soap. By the time that I was pouring the top of the soap, it had already begun to harden and clump. As you can see in the picture below, by the time I was able to begin swirling the top of the soap, the blue topping was already setting up. This caused the swirling effect not to turn out.

taiwan soap problems

 

I also colored the base the exact same blue as the blue on top. In theory, we thought a blue base with blue, pink, purple, and white on top would be beautiful! In reality, because they were the exact shade of blue, it was not an appealing look. For the second batch, I added all four colors throughout the entire soap and swirled them. This gave a gorgeous effect instead of just having random colors on only parts of the top of the soap.

Always remember, soaping at a lower temperature will give you so much more time to work to create your soap! If you soap at higher temperatures, you will have to work faster to create it all. While my Taiwan Soap problems were minor, I thought you would all like to know what happened! For all the experienced soap makers out there, I would love to hear about any problems you’ve encountered making a soap like this! Please contact us here at Nature’s Garden! You can always contact us if you have any thoughts, questions, or concerns as well! Make sure to go and check out all of our amazing free recipes and classes! Remember to keep watching for even more Enlightened by Layla!

enlightened-by-layla

 

Apr
01

Spearmint Soap Problems

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, Natures Garden, soap, soap making problems, Soap making supplies, Uncategorized and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

spearmint soap problemsSpearmint Soap Problems

Hello everyone! As you know, I’ve recently been making many different soap recipes and learning more and more about the soap making process. We posted a blog about the wonderful Spearmint Soap I made using our Spearmint Fragrance Oil, and now I’m back to tell you all about some of the problems I had making that gorgeous gray and green soap. That beautiful soap was actually my second time making this recipe, and as I’m sure you’ve figured out, the first time didn’t go so well! In the first recipe, instead of doing green and gray swirls, I instead tried out just an all-over green base.

One of my first problems was with my white topping for the soap. I had researched so many different pictures and had seen so many lovely whipped soap toppings that I thought this was one soap I could easily whip up and create myself! However, once I had prepared and poured my green soap base, I was waiting for my white topping to set up to a frosting consistency so that I would be able to fluff it all over the top of the soap. However, while I was waiting, I panicked and poured the white on top way too soon. This caused my top to not be able to peak as well as not being fluff-like. Because I poured too soon and my topping was still not fully set up, this also caused part of the white to sink into the green soap since the green soap was not fully set up either. You can definitely see the sinking after the soap was cut, there were no straight lines and you can see the spots where the topping sank right in! So for all of you other soap makers out there, always make sure to give your topping enough time to set up, or else you will end up with your topping sinking into your base! You also won’t be able to peak the top like you want!

Another big problem I had was using way too much green colorant for the base of my soap. Instead of coming out with a beautiful mint green color like the remake, the green of my first Spearmint Soap was a dark hunter-like green. While there is nothing wrong with a hunter green, this color did not go with the Spearmint theme. Once I completed the remake, this soap turned out absolutely beautiful! Have any of you experienced soap makers out there had any mistakes like these? I would love to hear about them! Please contact me here at Nature’s Garden, or you can always contact us here with any thoughts, concerns, or questions that you may have! Make sure to check out all of our wonderful free recipes and classes! You’re sure to adore each and every one of our recipes! Make sure to check out all of our Soap Classes as well to help you along! Make sure to keep watching for even more Enlightened by Layla!

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Mar
30

Tiger Stripe Soap Recipe

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tiger stripe soap recipeTiger Stripe Soap Recipe

What inspires you? Well, here at Nature’s Garden, we are inspired by pretty much everything, but lately we’ve been on a serious animal print kick! We found this amazing picture of this gorgeous tiger and couldn’t wait to get started on making a tiger stripe soap recipe! And we of course have used our Animalistic Instinct Fragrance, I mean how could we not? It’s absolutely perfect!

tiger stripe soap recipe

 

 

 

Our wonderful inspiration!

 

 

 

animalistic instinct fragrance oil

 

 

 

Make sure to try out our amazing Animalistic Instinct scent!

 

 

 

Ingredients:

272 grams of Olive Oil

272 grams of Shea Butter

181 grams of Palm Oil

181 grams of Coconut Oil

70 grams of Animalistic Instinct Fragrance Oil

15 grams of Titanium Dioxide

7 grams of Neon Orange FUN Soap Colorant

5 grams of Black Oxide FUN Soap Colorant

125 grams of Lye

345 grams of Distilled Water

Other Ingredients Needed:

Square Loaf Mold Market Mold

Thermometer

Safety Mask

Safety Glasses

Safety Gloves

Stick Blender

Scale

Vinegar

Spatulas

Mixing Bowls

 

Directions:

animalistic instinct soap

 

Always make sure to protect yourself first with your gloves, glasses, and mask! Then you can prepare your lye water. Weigh 345 grams of distilled water, and 125 grams of lye. Carefully pour your lye into your water. Never pour water into lye! This can cause an explosion! Thoroughly mix your lye water and then set it aside to cool down.

 

animalistic instinct soap

 

 

Next, you can get your butters and oils ready. Weigh out 272 grams of Shea Butter, 272 grams of Olive Oil, 181 grams of Palm Oil, and 181 grams of Coconut Oil 76. Melt these down completely and then set them aside to cool as well.

 

animalistic instinct soap

 

While you are waiting for both of these to cool, you can get your colors ready. In separate bowls, add 5 grams of Black Oxide colorant, and 7 grams of Neon Orange. Then in another bowl, measure out 15 grams of Titanium Dioxide, mixing this thoroughly with just a little bit of your oils from your base bowl until you have achieved a paste-like consistency.

 

animalistic instinct soap

 

Make sure to keep checking your oils and lye water temperatures using your thermometer, until they have reached about 72 degrees Fahrenheit (room temperature) and are within ten degrees of each other. Then carefully pour your lye water into your butters and oils, mixing it together very thoroughly with a stick blender until you have come to a light trace.

 

animalistic instinct soap

 

 

When your mixture is at a light trace, pour 400 grams into the bowl with black colorant, 500 into the orange, and 500 in a separate bowl, adding your titanium paste to this last bowl. Then thoroughly mix each color. Make sure to add 20 grams of your Animalistic Instinct fragrance to your black bowl, and 25 grams to the orange and white. Again, make sure to mix them thoroughly!

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Once your colors are completely mixed, you can begin to pour them into your mold. We started with our orange, carefully pouring just a little bit in a straight line all the way across the mold.

 

 

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Then we alternated all three colors until the mold was almost full, leaving just a little bit of each color in our bowls.

animalistic instinct soap

 

 

 

 

With the remaining colors, we splattered it over the top of the soap into gorgeous designs! Splatter the rest of your soap however your heart desires!

 

 

Once you have finished your soap, it will need to sit to set up for at least 24 hours before removing it from the mold. Once it is removed, your new Tiger Stripe Soap will need to sit for at least 4 to 6 weeks to give it enough time to cure and become less alkaline. After that, your soap will be ready for you to use and enjoy! Check out all the rest of our free recipes and classes and watch out for more Enlightened by Layla!

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Mar
30

Making Tiger Swirl Soap

This entry was posted in bath and body, free recipe, free soap recipes, Natures Garden, soap, Soap making supplies and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

making tiger swirl soapMaking Tiger Swirl Soap

I’m back everyone! I finished my remake of my Tiger Swirl Soap, without adding any sodium lactate, and it turned out absolutely wonderful! Now we’re bringing you the great recipe for this beautiful soap, and it is the perfect one to bring you right into the spring season with its wonderfully bright colors! We have used our Shea Butter Cold Process Soap recipe for the base.

 

Ingredients:

272 grams of Olive Oil

181 grams of Palm Oil

181 grams of Coconut Oil

272 grams of Shea Butter

345 grams of Lye

69 grams of Mint Mango Tea Fragrance Oil

15 grams of Titanium Dioxide

4 grams of Neon Orange FUN Soap Colorant

6 grams of Lime Green FUN Soap Colorant

125 grams of Distilled Water

Other Ingredients Needed:

Square Loaf Mold Market Mold

Safety Glasses

Safety Gloves

Safety Mask

Thermometer

Kabob Skewers

Scale

Stick Blender

Mixing Bowls

Spatulas

Vinegar

 

Directions:

making tiger swirl soap

 

Always start with safety first! Before preparing anything, make sure that you are wearing your safety glasses, gloves, and mask! Once you are protected, you can prepare your lye water. Measure and weigh out 345 grams of water. Then measure and weigh out 125 grams of lye. Carefully add your lye to your water, then mix together thoroughly. Set your lye aside to cool down.

 

making tiger swirl soap

 

While you are waiting for the lye water to cool, you can go ahead and get your butters and oils ready. Measure and weigh out 272 grams of Shea Butter, 181 grams of Coconut Oil, 181 grams of Palm Oil, and 272 grams of Olive Oil. Then melt them your oils and butters down until they are completely melted. Once they are melted, set your bowl aside for it to cool as well.

 

making tiger swirl soap

 

 

While you are waiting for both your lye water and oils to cool, you can get your colors ready. In one mixing bowl, measure and weigh out 4 grams of Neon Orange colorant, and 6 grams of Lime Green colorant into another. In a third bowl, measure and weigh out 15 grams of titanium dioxide.

 

making tiger swirl soap

 

One your lye water and oils are around 100 degrees Fahrenheit and within 10 degrees of each other, they are ready to be mixed. Then pour just a little bit of your cooled oils into the bowl with titanium dioxide. Mix it thoroughly until it has become a paste-like consistency. Then go ahead and pour your lye water into your butters and oils. Mix it together thoroughly.

making tiger swirl soap

 

 

 

Next, pour 477 grams of your mixture into each bowl with your green and orange colorants.

 

 

making tiger swirl soap

 

 

In the base bowl, add your titanium dioxide paste and mix thoroughly until your mixture has turned completely white. Then thoroughly mix your green and orange bowls until you have achieved an all over orange color and an all over green.

 

making tiger swirl soap

 

Once you have thoroughly mixed your colors, add 24 grams of your Mint Mango Tea fragrance to each bowl, and again thoroughly mix each bowl. Then you can begin to pour your bowls into your mold. We started with our orange, and carefully poured just a little bit into a straight line across the mold. Do the same with your green, pouring into the center of the orange line.

making tiger swirl soap

 

 

 

Same with the white, pouring it right into the middle of the orange. Keep doing this technique alternating your colors until you have almost filled your mold.

 

making tiger swirl soap

 

 

Once you have finished pouring your colors, take the remainder of each and dollop it around on the top of your soap, using all of your remaining soap.

 

 

making tiger swirl soap

 

 

 

Then take your skewer and carefully circle it throughout the top of your soap, mixing the dollops together thoroughly. This will achieve a beautiful swirl effect on top.

 

making tiger swirl soap

 

 

 

 

 

Make sure to let your soap sit for at least 24 hours to fully set up before removing it from your mold.

 

 

 

 

Make sure to wait about 4 to 6 weeks before actually using your soap, giving it enough time to cure. After the 4 to 6 weeks have passed, your Mint Mango Soap will be ready for you to use and enjoy! Make sure to check out all the rest of our free recipes and classes as well! Keep watching for more Enlightened by Layla!

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Mar
26

Spearmint Soap

This entry was posted in bath and body, free recipe, Natures Garden, soap, Soap making supplies, soap recipes and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

spearmint soapSpearmint Soap

Doesn’t the scent of spearmint just completely delight you? I know it’s an aroma that can instantly lift my spirits! This is one scent that everyone you know is sure to adore, and one that you can easily fill your home with! We’re bringing you a brand new free recipe, and it is for our beautiful new Spearmint Soap! Doesn’t this amazing combination of green, gray, and white just make you extremely happy? We have used our Shea Butter Soap Recipe for the base.

Ingredients:

272 grams of Shea Butter

181 grams of Palm Oil

272 grams of Olive Oil

181 grams of Coconut Oil

125 grams of Lye

345 grams of Distilled Water

30 grams of Titanium Dioxide

68 grams of Spearmint Fragrance Oil

4 drops of Neon Green FUN Soap Colorant

2 drops of Black Oxide FUN Soap Colorant

Other Ingredients Needed:

Spearmint Leaves

Square Loaf Mold Market Molds

Safety Glasses

Safety Gloves

Safety Mask

Thermometer

Scale

Vinegar

Mixing Bowls

Spatulas

Stick Blender

 

Directions:

spearmint soap

Always start with safety first! Make sure you are wearing your safety glasses, gloves, and mask! Once you are protected, you can prepare your lye water. Measure and weigh out 345 grams of distilled water. Then measure and weigh out 125 grams of lye, and add it to your water. Always add lye to water, never add water to lye as this can cause an explosion! Mix your lye water together thoroughly, and then set it aside to cool down.

 

spearmint soap

 

While you are waiting for your lye water to cool, you can get your oils and butters ready. Measure and weigh out 272 grams of Olive Oil, 181 grams of Palm Oil, 272 grams of Shea Butter, and 181 grams of Coconut Oil. Then completely melt these down, and set them aside to cool as well.

 

 

spearmint soapAs you’re waiting for your butters and oils and lye water to cool, you can prepare your colorants. In separate mixing bowls, add 4 drops of Neon Green colorant to one, and 2 drops of Black Oxide to another. Then measure and weigh out 8 grams of Titanium Dioxide in a bowl and pour just a little bit of your oils into it. Mix it together until it has become a paste-like consistency. This will be for your white swirl. For your white top, in a separate bowl, measure and weigh out 22 grams of Titanium Dioxide and pour a little bit of your oils, again making a paste-like consistency.

spearmint soap

 

Using your thermometer, keep checking the temperatures of your lye water and oils until they have reached around room temperature (72 degrees Fahrenheit) and are within ten degrees of each other. Then carefully pour your lye water into your oils, and thoroughly mix them until they have come to a light trace.

 

spearmint soap

 

 

After you have come to trace, pour 461 grams of your mixture into a another mixing bowl and add your Titanium Dioxide paste with 22 grams. Mix it thoroughly and then add 23 grams of Spearmint fragrance, once again thoroughly mixing. Then set this bowl aside to let it sit and set up to become your topping.

 

spearmint soap

 

Next, into the bowls with your green and black colorants, add 308 grams of your mixture to each. In a third bowl, add 308 grams of your mix and add your white paste with the 8 grams of Titanium Dioxide. Thoroughly mix these together until you have achieved an all over gray color, all over mint green, and an all over white.

 

spearmint soap

 

 

 

Add 15 grams of your Spearmint fragrance to each of these and mix them together thoroughly.

 

 

spearmint soap

 

 

Then using the in the pot swirl method in another bowl, pour each of your three colors into the bowl. pouring each into a separate section.

 

 

 

spearmint soap

 

 

 

Using a spatula, start at the edge of the bowl and drag it in a straight line all the way across.

 

 

 

spearmint soap

 

 

 

Then place the spatula right where two colors begin to mix and drag it in a full circle around the bowl.

 

 

spearmint soap

 

 

After you have swirled your soap, you can begin to pour it into your mold. If you carefully pour it from side to side using the “granny pour” method, this will help you achieve an even prettier swirl!

 

 

spearmint soap

 

 

Once your soap is completely poured, make sure your topping is set up to about the consistency of cake frosting and then pour it on top of your soap. You can peak it with your spatula.

 

 

spearmint soap

 

 

 

After all of your topping is on your soap, lightly sprinkle some Spearmint leaves over top!

 

 

Once your soap is finished, you will need to let it sit to set up for at least 24 hours before removing it from your mold. Once it is removed, let your soap sit for at least 4 to 6 weeks, giving it enough time to fully cure and become less alkaline. Be sure to check out all the rest of our wonderful free recipes and classes, and keep watching for more Enlightened by Layla!

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Mar
20

Making In the Pot Swirl Soap

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, free recipe, Natures Garden, soap, Soap making supplies and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

swirled-soapMaking in the Pot Swirl Soap

Hello everyone, I’m back with my fixed Nature’s Garden’s colors soap! And I’m even bringing you the easy free recipe so you can make it yourself! For this recipe, I have used our recipe for our Shea Butter Cold Process Soap. Learning from the mistakes I made the first time, I made sure to thoroughly mix my colors as well as bringing my colors to trace. This soap has turned out so beautifully and I am so excited! I also added more color to make the colors even brighter!

Ingredients:

125 grams of Lye

272 grams of Olive Oil

181 grams of Palm Oil

181 grams of Coconut Oil

272 grams of Shea Butter

345 grams of Distilled Water

69 grams of Aqua Di Gio Type Fragrance Oil

4 grams of Neon Blue FUN Soap Colorant

2 grams of Kelly Green FUN Soap Colorant

3 grams of Neon Green FUN Soap Colorant

4 grams of Yelp Yellow FUN Soap Colorant

4 Loaf Square Mold

Safety Glasses

Safety Mask

Safety Gloves

Thermometer

Vinegar

Mixing Bowls

Spatulas

Stick Blender

 

Directions:

072Always start with safety first, especially when working with lye as it can cause burns when it comes in contact with your skin! Make sure to wear your safety glasses and gloves! Once you are protected, you can go ahead and prepare your lye water. Measure and weigh out 345 grams of water into a mixing bowl. When making your lye water, always remember to pour your lye into your water, not water into lye as this can cause an explosion! Weigh out 125 grams of lye, pour it into your water, and mix it together thoroughly. Let your lye water sit to cool down.

074

 

 

While your lye is cooling, you can get your oils ready. In a mixing bowl, measure out and weigh out 272 grams of Shea Butter, 181 grams of Palm Oil, 181 grams of Coconut Oil, and 272 grams of Olive Oil. When you have all of your oils ready, go ahead and melt them down completely. Then let them sit to cool as well.

 

091

 

 

While you are waiting for your oils and lye to cool, you can get your colors ready. Using three separate mixing bowls, add 6 grams of Yelp Yellow colorant to one, 4 grams of Kelly Green and 5 grams of Neon Green to another, and 7 grams of Neon Blue to the last.

 

080

 

 

Using your thermometer, check the temperature of both your lye as well as your oils. Once they are both around 72 degrees (room temperature) or so and the temperatures are within 10 degrees of each other Fahrenheit, you can pour your lye water into your oils. Soaping at this lower temperature will give you a lot more time to work.

089

 

 

 

Using your stick blender, thoroughly blend it together until you have completely emulsified it and have brought it to a light trace.

 

096

 

 

 

Then go ahead and pour 459 grams of your soap into each bowl with your colorants. Add 37 grams of fragrance to each bowl. Thoroughly mix each bowl until you have achieved an all over green color, blue, and a bright yellow!

 

027

 

 

 

Once your colors are mixed, you can begin to pour them into a clean mixing bowl. Pour each color in separate sections of the bowl.

 

 

 

030

 

 

Using a spatula, starting at the edge of the bowl, drag it in a straight line all the way across.

 

 

 

032

 

 

After you have done the straight line, place the spatula right where two colors begin to mix and drag it around your bowl in a circle.

 

 

 

038

 

 

Once you have finished swirling your soap, you can begin to pour it into your mold. Carefully, and slowly pouring it from side to side in the mold using the “granny pour” (as we call it)  will help you achieve an even prettier swirl. Once it is all poured, you will need to let your soap sit for about 24 hours.

 

 

After the 24 hours, you can remove your soap from your molds and slice.  We like to allow our cold process soap to cure for about 4 weeks to allow it to become harder and less alkaline. Make sure to check out all the rest of our free recipes and classes as well! Keep watching for more Enlightened by Layla!

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