Tag Archives: soap dyes


Color Morphing in Soap

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, cold process soap colorant, Natures Garden, soap, Soap making supplies and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

color morphing in soapColor Morphing in Soap

For any new soap makers out there like myself, do you have specific questions? For example, do you know which kind of soap colorant to use when you are coloring cold process soap? Or have you ever wondered about color morphing in soap? Here at Nature’s Garden, we offer two different kinds of colorants for soap: one being a our FD&C Da Bomb Soap Dyes, and one being our FUN Soap Colorants which are pigments dispersed in vegetable glycerin. The use of each kind of colorant is based on pH levels and the actual saponification process. The saponification process is considered the creation of soap by combining oils/butters and water with lye (which has a high ph). Throughout this process as the soap cures, the pH level (alkalinity) become lower.  It is important to understand that pigments tend to withstand higher ph levels better than dyes (especially when dealing with the color blue).  In our experiment, we show how blue dye and blue pigment perform in both melt and pour soap (soap that has already been saponified) and cold process soap (soap that is made from scratch and will undergo the saponification process).

In melt and pour soap, because it is technically already soap, it has already gone through the saponification process;  so the alkalinity is lower. The dyes, our Da Bomb colorants, do not cause any color morphing problems when used in melt and pour soap. They will color beautifully, as well as our pigments, or FUN Soap Colorants. In the picture below, this light blue colored bundt soap is made with melt and pour soap, as well as our Blue Da Bomb colorant. You can see how nice and pretty this blue coloring is. When melt and pour soap is colored with blue FD&C dye, it will produce a beautiful blue colored soap since the dye never has to encounter a high ph.

color morphing in soap

color morphing in soap

However, when different colorants are used in cold process soap, as seen below, the outcome is very different. Because cold process is made completely from scratch, it must undergo the entire saponification process.  This means that the pH levels are much higher in cold process soap. In the pictures below, the darker blue soap was made using our pigmented, Ultramarine Blue FUN Soap Colorant. The purple soap, (started as gray and turned to reddish-pink-purple as it sat) was created using our Da Bomb blue dye. (We have used our Shea Butter Cold Process Soap recipe for this part of our experiment).  It is evident that blue FD&C dye (our Da Bomb blue dye)  will morph in color when exposed to a high ph.

color morphing in soap

color morphing in soap

color morphing in soap

In conclusion:  When desiring a nice blue color for your cold process soap, it is wise to use blue pigments instead of blue FD&C dyes.  While the blue FD&C dyes work wonderfully in melt and pour soap, they will indeed morph in color when making cold process soap.

Please contact us here at Nature’s Garden if you have any questions, comments, or concerns at all! We are here to help you and to make sure you succeed at all of your creations! Make sure to check out all of our amazing free recipes and classes as well, especially all of our soaping classes! And keep watching for more Enlightened by Layla!

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Lotion Recipe

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath and body fragrances, bath products, colorants, cosmetic recipe, emulsifing agent, Fragrance Oils, homemade, homemade lotion, lotion, Natures Garden, soap dyes, sodium lactate and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

Homemade Tropical Lotion RecipeThis amazing Tropical Lotion Recipe is filled with skin loving and moisturizing elements.  But, not only does this lotion sink right into your skin, it smells like a tropical paradise.  Just the perfect thing to snap you out of the winter blues, and get you ready for summer!

To make this lotion, there are some supplies you will need.  To heat and melt the oils/butters, you will be using a double boiler method on your stovetop.  You will also need a larger mixing bowl to combine the water and butters/oils, as well as a stick blender to encourage the emulsification process.  Other than that, the rest of the supplies are pretty standard:  a scale, a mixing spoon, a spatula, and a funnel (optional).

As for the rest of the ingredients in this lotion recipe, they can all be found at Natures Garden.  You will also be able to find the bottles and lids to package your lotion in by clicking on this link.

Here is the lotion recipe to make (2) 8 oz. bottles:
Water Phase:
425 grams Distilled Water
8 grams Sodium Lactate
Oil Phase:
24 grams BTMS 25
10 grams Mango Butter
28 grams Rice Bran Oil
30 grams Fractionated Coconut Oil
6 grams Vitamin E Oil 
To Scent and Preserve:
10 grams Optiphen Preservative 
12 grams Papaya Dragon Fruit Fragrance Oil 
To get the same color pictured, you will need:
5 drops Da Bomb Soap Dye Yellow
7 drops Da Bomb Soap Dye Blue

It is suggested before starting this recipe to prep your area with all of the supplies that you will need.  Also, clean and sanitize your work area as well as your packaging materials.

And now, the steps:

The Water Phase:
Step 1:  Using your scale, weigh out at least 525 grams of distilled water.  Even though you will only be using 425 grams for this lotion recipe, you want to account for evaporation while heating.  Place your water in a pot.  Place the pot on the stove top.  Heat the water to 180 degrees Fahrenheit.  Once the water hits that temperature, hold it there for 20 minutes.  This step will eliminate any bacteria that may be in the water.

heat your distilled water

Step 2:  When the time has elapsed, remove the water for the stove top/heat. Weigh out 425 grams of the water.  Then, add the sodium lactate.  Stir and set aside.

adding sodium lactate to lotion recipe
The Oil Phase:
Step 1:  Grab a larger pot.  Place a few inches of tap water into this pot.  Put this pot on to the stove top on medium heat.  Now, weigh out and combine the following:  Mango Butter, BTMS, Fractionated Coconut Oil, Rice Bran Oil, and the Vitamin E.  Place all of the ingredients into a smaller pot.  Then, place this smaller pot in to the larger one.  This is the double boiler method.  As the ingredients melt, stir occasionally.  Heat the ingredients in the smaller pot to 140 degrees Fahrenheit.

double boiler method for the lotion ingredients

The Mixing Phase: Get ready to move!
Step 1: Double check that your water and your oils are both around 140 degrees Fahrenheit.  Then, in a large mixing bowl combine the oil mixture and the water.

adding the oil phase to the water phase
Step 2:  Using your stick blender, begin to emulsify.  This will become apparent when your mixture turns white in color.

emulsifying lotion recipe

The Cooling Phase:
Step 1:  Now, allow your mixture to cool.  The temperature that you are looking for is 120 degrees Fahrenheit.  Once your lotion is this temperature, add the Optiphen preservative, colorant, and fragrance oil.  Once again, using your stick blender, mix.

preserving your lotion
Step 2:  Finally, let your lotion cool to room temperature and then place it into your bottles.

packaging your lotion

You have now turned your Tropical Lotion Recipe into Homemade Tropical Lotion.  You will just love how truly amazing this lotion is!  Enjoy the tropical fruits of your labor!

Natures Garden is not responsible for the performance of any of the recipes provided on our website. Testing is your responsibility. If you plan to resell any recipes we provide, it is your responsibility to adhere to all FDA regulations. If there are ingredients listed in a recipe that Natures Garden does not sell, we cannot offer any advice on where to purchase those ingredients.