Tag Archives: herbs in soap


Natural Soap Colorants: Katie Makes Soap Part 2

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, citrus notes, melt and pour soap, Natures Garden, Natures Garden Wholesale, red Moroccan clay, Rose Clay, soap, soap colorants, Soap making supplies and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

Natural Soap ColorantsHi, there! It’s me, Katie, again. I’ve already told you about my first attempt at soapmaking. and guess what? I made more soap! Or at least tried to. This time I decided to experiment with natural soap colorants in melt and pour soap. (Different soap processes can affect natural colorants differently, but you’re generally OK with melt and pour- read the pages on the colorants for more information.) I wanted to make a color gradient with natural soap colorants, and I had the following powders: Red Moroccan Clay Powder, Orange Peel Powder, Carrot Powder, Rose Clay Powder, and Lemon Peel Powder. I used red clay, orange peel, and carrot in my first soap, and I got rose clay and lemon peel for a pink lemonade soap idea that I had (didn’t work out, going to try again- that blog will be coming soon!).

So, when you want to disperse a powder evenly in soap for coloring purposes, you want to ‘wet’ it with vegetable glycerin. Soap loves glycerin. I got a two pound slab of Shea Butter Melt and Pour, and first cut it in half because I was using a 1lb loaf mold. Then- lucky me- that slab was divided evenly into 20 squares- five rows of four- and I had five powders- so I separated my melt and pour base into five cups of four squares each. Then I measured out 0.1 oz of each powder into separate lil glass bowls. (One tenth of an ounce is the smallest amount [in ounces] that my scale would register.) I added 0.1 oz of veggie glycerin to each of my fruit and veggie powders, but the lemon peel powder was not mixing well- so I added more! I used 0.2 oz veggie glycerin for my fruit and veggie powders. I had to beat out the lumps of the carrot powder but with the extra veggie glycerin, it ended up being a very thin liquid. The others were more like pastes. I added 0.1 oz of veggie glycerin to my clay powders and that was enough to turn them into a workable texture. Woohoo! Here are my powders lined up:Powders

Out of habit, I had originally thought the lemon peel mixture would be the lightest- yellow, right? But it was actually a light brown. Hmm. Well. My eyes didn’t lie. So I lined the powders up this way since it seemed to be the most aesthetically pleasing- looked like a gradient and that’s what I was going for.

This time, I used the microwave for my melting and wow, that was so much faster and easier than trying to use the stove. I still wasn’t 100% sure on my carrot, orange, and lemon powders being in the correct order for a proper gradient (lemon = yellow, right, brain?) so I put my four squares each of melt and pour (cut up, of course, for easier melting) into three glass containers with spouts and thoroughly stirred in my powder-glycerin mixtures.

Natural Soap Colorants

Lemon was clearly the darkest of the three. It was a close call between carrot and orange, but orange was definitely closer to the color of the lemon powder soap. Well, alright. I had to melt them again because melt and pour isn’t really designed for stopping and taking photos and then I began pouring them into the mold one layer at a time. I poured my carrot layer first and sprayed the top with rubbing alcohol to get rid of air bubbles. I let that sit for.. I’m not sure exactly- about half an hour? It was only 1/5 of a pound so it didn’t take too terribly long to set up. Then I sprayed the top of that layer with rubbing alcohol (it evaporates out- so no worries there) and poured the next layer, sprayed it with rubbing alcohol, and let it set up. I repeated these steps for all five layers.

Natural Soap ColorantsI let the soap sit for a while before I popped it out of the mold to admire it, and then waited even longer before I cut it. I ended up with five ~1″ thick bars. I just cut it on a cutting board with a big knife- nothing fancy, so it’s not exact. And behold these beauties: the dark spots in the middle layers are likely spots where my powder clumped up but the carrot powder also seemed to settle into little specks on the bottom. I like it. It’s super cute. The lemon layer is also the most malleable, the other layers are quite hard and the lemon layer has a small bit of give. This bar smells slightly citrus-y near the lemon and orange layers, but overall, no overwhelming scent – I was more focused on the appearance anyway. It lathers like a dream, though. <3

Natural Soap ColorantsWhat did I learn? Well, the concentration of your powder is very important in determining coloring. That failed soap I mentioned above? I used the same amount of rose clay powder (and veggie glycerin to color an entire pound of it and you can really tell the difference 5x colorant concentration makes. The red clay layer actually looks closer to the solid-colored soap. Interesting. I think if I made another gradient soap, I would pick one colorant and do the different layers in different concentrations. No guess work when it comes to the proper order that way. It’s also been brought to my attention that certain non-clay powders may have the tendency to oxidize and eventually turn brown. I think they worked well in this soap not to mention the added benefits, but I may stick with clay for colorants in the future.

Here’s my first soap side-by-side with my second soap. So cute! Different combinations and different concentrations make different colors. I can’t wait to experiment with this further!



Herbs in Melt and Pour Soap

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, free recipe, melt and pour soap, Natures Garden, soap making recipes, Soap making supplies and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

herbs in melt and pour soapHerbs in Melt and Pour Soap

Hello everyone, it’s time for a new creation!! We have created our new Chamomile Clay Soap using dried chamomile flowers & Rhassoul Clay to create a soap that exfoliates your skin while removing toxins! There are many amazing benefits to having herbs in melt and pour soap, especially as they work as an exfoliant for your skin! Chamomile actually helps to make your skin softer, reduce wrinkles and stretch marks, as well as working to heal flaky skin!



Clay Soap Layer: 

120 grams of Oatmeal Melt and Pour Soap

6 grams of Watercress and Aloe Fragrance Oil

7 grams of Rhassoul Clay Powder

11 grams of Vegetable Glycerin

Chamomile Flower Layer:

180 grams of Diamond Clear Melt and Pour Soap

9 grams of Watercress and Aloe Fragrance Oil

10 grams of Whole Chamomile Flowers

Other Ingredients Needed:

Rectangle Dome Top Mold Market Mold

8 oz. Clear Bullet Bottle

White Fine Mist Sprayer 24/410

Rubbing Alcohol

Pam or other cooking spray

Mixing Bowls

Mixing Spoons

Paper Towels



Start by spraying a paper towel with your cooking spray and then gently rubbing your paper towel into your mold. The cooking spray will help to make the soap easier to release from the mold when it is finished. Next, go ahead and weigh out 180 grams of Diamond Clear Melt and Pour Soap into one bowl, and 120 grams of Oatmeal Melt and Pour Soap into another. Then into a third bowl, measure out 7 grams of Rhassoul Clay Powder and 11 grams of Vegetable Glycerin. Mix the clay and glycerin together thoroughly to make a paste.

herbs in melt and pour soap

Take the bowl with the Oatmeal Soap and in the microwave, melt down your soap. When it is fully melted, add your clay and vegetable paste mixture to the melted soap, as well as 6 grams of Watercress and Aloe Fragrance Oil. Make sure to mix it all together thoroughly. Once this is fully mixed together, pour your soap equally into 2 cavities of your mold. (Hint: If you pour into the middle, it will spread out more evenly!) Make sure to spray this layer with rubbing alcohol directly after pouring to defeat any air bubbles! Now let your soap sit, giving it enough time to set up and harden. If you pour the next layer too soon, the separate layers may combine with each other, and you may have brown coming into your clear layer.

herbs in melt and pour soap

Once your first layer has set up, go ahead and melt down your Diamond Clear soap in the microwave. When it is fully melted, add 9 grams of our Watercress and Aloe fragrance. Mix them together thoroughly. Before you pour it however, make sure to once again spray your first layer with rubbing alcohol, this will help each layer to adhere to each other. Then, go ahead and pour your clear layer on top of your brown layer. Once that is poured, you will need to work quickly to add your chamomile. Make sure to get your herbs down into the soap as much as you can, but do it quickly to get them in there before your layer hardens. (We have used 7 grams of chamomile for our soap, but you do not have to! Use as much or as little as you want!) Then leave your soap to sit until it has completely hardened.

herbs in melt and pour soap

herbs in melt and pour soap

Once it has hardened, your Chamomile Clay Soap is ready for you to use! Make sure to carefully remove it from your mold, and enjoy it! Make sure to check out all the rest of our free recipes and classes as well! Keep watching for more Enlightened by Layla!

enlightened-by-layla (1)


Coloring Cold Process Soaps with Herbs

This entry was posted in all natural, bath and body, cold process soap colorant, herbal oil infusion, herbal tea, herbs, natural colorants, Natures Garden and tagged , , , , , , , , , , on by .

Adding herbs to your soap not only provides great skin loving benefits, but also can naturally color your soaps as well.

If you are looking for a way to naturally color your cold process soaps, herbs may be your answer.  The addition of herbs to your soaping recipes not only can provide your skin with different skin loving benefits, but can also give your soaps beautiful color as well.

There are basically three ways to incorporate herbs into your soaping recipe they are:

1.  As is.  If the herb you are adding is in a powder or small leaf/seed form, they can be added when your soap batter has reached trace.
2. Herbs in tea form.  This is done by steeping the herbs in water to create a tea, and then this “tea” is used as the water portion of your soap recipe.
3.  Oil infusion.  If you are selecting to infuse your herbs this way, you must make your herb oil infusion several weeks before using it in a soaping recipe.  The selected herbs are placed into one of your oils (that will be used in your soap recipe) and allowed to set for 4-6 weeks.  Then, strain the herbs out and use the oil in your soap recipe.  Please Note:  This process can also be done by adding the herbs to the melting pot as you wait for your soaping oils to melt.

The choice of how you would like to infuse your herbs is up to you and testing.  It is important to keep in mind what the end goal of adding the herb is before choosing your herbal addition method.  The answers as to why some people prefer different methods over others various based on easiness, time frame, best color production, or even strongest herbal infusion.  However, if you are simply looking to add herbs to your soap recipe for natural color, the herbs are added to your soap batter at trace.

It is also important that you test for discoloration in a soap recipe before adding an herb for colorant.  Natures Garden has a list of every fragrance oil they carry and how it preformed in cold process soap.  It is on their website under each fragrance oil’s page in the Fragrance Tested area, or for a complete list click Fragrances Tested in CP Soap Results.  You want to be prepared when adding herbs to soaping recipes, so knowing a little about how the fragrance oil reacts will only prepare you more for what to expect, especially when it comes to colorants!