Tag Archives: cold process soap

Apr
24

Insulate Soap

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, cold process soap, homemade soap, make your own soap, Natures Garden, soap, soap ingredients, Soap making supplies, soap mold, wholesale supplies and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

insulate soap As soap crafters, there are hundreds of variances allotted to us that allow our soaps to be special. Maybe it is the combination of oils in your recipe, the process to which you soap, your unique scents, your particular decorating method, or really any number of things that makes your soap exclusive. Well, in this blog post, we are going to throw a new option into the mix.

To insulate or not to insulate that is the question.

As with many aspects of soap making; when it comes to insulation, it is really a personal preference.

Being new to soap making, a lot of research is involved. You read, read, and read some more in order to learn everything you can about soap making. Well, as many of us found, insulating is always advised.

The insulating step involves taking your freshly poured, molded soap, and surrounding it with layers. These layers help to keep the soap at an even heat while the batter goes through the saponification process. During the saponification process, as the lye reacts with the various soap making ingredients, soap (and glycerin) is produced. The process itself is an endothermic reaction, meaning that it absorbs heat from the surroundings.

This “heat stage” of soap making is commonly called the gel phase. During the gel phase, saponification works at an accelerated rate, hardening the fats of your recipe. This phase will also be the time where any discoloration of ingredients or colorants will occur from the heat.

Keeping the soap uniformly heated will prevent a partial gel from occurring. Not keeping the soap uniformly heated allows for the soap that is in the center of the mold to stay hot, while the soap on the outside loses heat rapidly. And, since the saponification process is endothermic, it needs to be able to draw heat from its surroundings. What this results in is an off colored look in the center of your soap, usually in an oval like shape. This shows that the center of the soap gelled, and the outside of the soap never reached gel phase.

Speaking in terms of soap, gel phase or not reaching gel phase does not harm the soap itself. The soap will still function after cure; it is only an aesthetic issue. So, it is for this reason that it is often believed that insulation is vital to an amazing looking bar of cold process soap. But, there is an alternative.

Lets look at the flip side.  If you do not want to insulate the heat in the soap, what would happen if you chilled the soap instead?

Chilling your molded soap would prevent the gel phase from occurring. This would be a handy trick of the trade for a few reasons. It should however, be noted though that in order for the gel phase prevention to occur, you need to be able to control the area. Operating out of a loaf mold for example, still allows enough soap in the middle for a partial gel to occur. You want to keep the size of the soap easily manageable for temperature reasons. Remember, because saponification deals with heat, while the lye and fats are reacting, heat will be present. To completely increase your chances of preventing the gel phase, you must minimize the area that needs chilled, aka use smaller molds.

Not insulating your soap, and instead placing your freshly molded soap into the fridge or freezer for 24 hours will help to prevent the gel phase from occurring. But, please note the size of your soap will directly determine whether the gel phase will occur or not.   This also rings true for the soaping ingredients that are in your recipe. Chilling your soap is not a guarantee, partial gelling can still transpire.

In closing, there is another option if you choose not to insulate your soap. There are benefits and drawbacks to chilling your soap. Stay tuned for a future blog posts discussing preventing gel phase and what the outcome will be.

 

Apr
22

Rebatching Soap

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath and body fragrances, bath products, cold process soap, cold process soap colorant, cold process soap scents, Fragrance Oils, handmade soap, homemade, Natures Garden, soap ingredients, soap making recipes, Soap making supplies, soap mold and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

rebatching soap Whether you view rebatching as an art, a doorway for the addition of gentle ingredients, or a second chance for your soap, this method of soap making offers opportunity.

The term rebatching for soap simply means remaking soap.  This method would be very similar to melt and pour soap in that you are melting down soap that has already gone through the saponification process.  Rebatching is more intricate than melt and pour soap though.  Rebatching involves cold processed or hot processed soap bars that are melted down for specific reasons.

A common technique used in soap making, rebatching allows many soap making handcrafters the chance to rework their soap recipes, introduce delicate scents and herbs, as well as add ingredients or colors they may have missed the opportunity to add the first time.

Since rebatched soap has already gone through the saponification process, the rebatching steps do not involve lye.  This is why rebatching allows the opportunity to add those delicate soaping ingredients; without fear.  With the rebatching method, these ingredients; which normally would not survive the saponification process, now have the chance to add wonderful benefits to your finished bars of soap.

Although time consuming, the rebatch process is fairly easy to do.  To put it briefly, the rebatching process is finely grating the soap, then heating (sometimes with the addition of a liquid like water to help prevent burning).  There are a few different ways to introduce heat to the shredded soap.  These ways would include:  double boiler, microwave, and crock pot.  But, please advise: you must monitor the soap while it is heating because you never want to scorch the soap.  This may be slightly more difficult using the microwave approach.

Now, as the soap is heated and starts to liquefy; it will have a very thick gel like density.  Once the soap hits this consistency, any additives or scents are added and stirred in.  Once the soap is stirred well, it is then scooped into a mold, left to harden, and finally cut into slices.

So, now that you have an understanding as to what the method of rebatching is, we will shortly post a blog as to the various reasons to rebatch.  This post will also cover the benefits as well as the drawbacks of rebatching your soap.

Apr
18

Why Rebatch

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, body safe fragrance oils, cold process soap, cold process soap colorant, cold process soap scents, essential oils, Fragrance Oils, handmade soap, homemade soap, natural colorants, Natures Garden, soap ingredients, Soap making supplies and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

rebatch soapRebatching your soap can literally be a “saving redo” for your soap recipe.

Sometimes your homemade soap bars are cracked, brittle, or just not performing like what you were hoping for. 

These are all perfect examples as to why you would rebatch your recipe.  But, it just doesn’t stop there. 

Soapers rebatch a soap recipe for a variety of reasons.  Below is a list of the benefits and key points you should know about rebatching a soap recipe.  Rebatching soap is essentially making the soap twice.  The first time you are completing the saponification process.  (Or, you may be using soap that has already been through the saponification process.)  Then, the second time you grate down the soap and melt it (for the reason you are rebatching). 

Benefits of a Rebatch
Rebatching a soap recipe for the addition of heat sensitive ingredients: 

Sometimes with homemade soap crafting, there are certain fragrances or essential oils that you really want to scent your soap bars; but worry that the scents cannot handle the high heat due to the saponification process.  Many times with low flash point fragrances or essential oils, there is scent burn off.  What results in your finished bars is soap that has little or no scent.  Rebatching soap will not only safely allow you to add these heat sensitive scents, but allow them to stay true to their scent (less burn off). 

Also, some fragrance oils may cause cold process soap to seize (turning your soap into a solid mass with no fluidity).  If you have your heart set on using one of these fragrances in your soap recipe, it can be done through the process of rebatching; without seizing your batch.  Usually fragrance oils that seize  your soap contain DPG.  None of the fragrance oils we carry at Natures Garden contain DPG. 

When it comes to coloring for cold process soap, it is very important to select ones that do not morph.  Through the process of rebatching, you do not need to worry about pH sensitive colorants.  And, sometimes this is just the answer to achieve that certain color.  With rebatch soap, the soap base that you are using has already completed the saponification process; therefore, the colorants that normally would discolor will not.   This is true for herbs that are used as natural soap colorants as well.  Although it should be stated that some herbs naturally discolor due to oxidation. 

Herbs not only offer color, but also wonderful and various benefits to your finished bars of soap.  The only problem is they can directly affect your soaping procedure.  Many herbs can speed up trace.  Even more so, some herbs cannot survive the saponification process and will discolor as a result.  With rebatching, this is not as big of an issue.  Herbs like lavender flowers, for example, can be added without worrying that those beautiful flowers will turn brown. 

Rebatch Opportunity
Rebatching allows for perfection:

Rebatching is also a wonderful method to use to correct a soap recipe.  Things can get a little chaotic when soaping, and it could be possible that you overlooked adding one of your soaping ingredients and did not realize it until after the soap was molded.  This resulted in your finished bars being too lye heavy.  A rebatch allows you the perfect opportunity to add that missing ingredient and balance out your soap.  This opportunity also allows for superfatting a recipe after saponification; or correcting soap bars that are too soft (made with too many fats or soft oils).

It is possible too that while making soap, your batter becomes too thick too quick for the addition of color or scent.  With rebatch, the soap can be scented and colored like you never missed a beat. 

Rebatch can also help correct a false trace recipe.
 
Rebatch, a Second Chance for Soaps
Sometimes, as a soaper, you will have pounds of soap scraps that you have on hand.  Rebatching the soap lets you make loaves (and bars) of them once more.  And will clear out all of that soaping space. 

Points to Know about Rebatch
Some soapers love to rebatch soap, others rebatch only when necessary, and some soapers just do not like to rebatch.  What ever your stance is on rebatch, it is a method that allows for many otherwise missed opportunities.   Here are some key points to know about rebatch. 

When making soap that is a rebatch, it will never completely liquefy.  Even after spending hours in the crock pot, or on the stove top (with the double boiler method), the best you will ever achieve is more of a thick gel like state.  Sometimes the soap may even be globby like.  This does not affect the soap being soap, but it will affect the finished look of your bars. 

When it comes to molding your rebatch soap, it is highly likely to get trapped air bubbles.  This is just the nature of the thick gel like globby beast.  It is extremely important to tap your mold as your fill it to prevent these pesky little buggers from being a problem in your finished soap bars.  You may also notice that it may be slightly more difficult to mold your soap while in this state.  This will be especially true if you are used to pouring it (like cold process soap batter).  With rebatch soap, you will need a ladle and scoop the rebatch soap into your mold. 

For the finished bars of rebatch soap, they will look very similar to hot process soap bars.  They have a very rustic look to them, and will not have the traditional smooth and creamy look that cold process has. 

On a final note, rebatching soap is truly a labor of love.  There will be lots of TLC (because of the time put in) and additional work to do this method.  But, if you are willing to put in the extra effort in (grating the soap), you will be able to rebatch your soap and have the end results that you are looking to achieve. 

Apr
17

How to Rebatch

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, body safe fragrance oils, cold process soap, cold process soap scents, Fragrance Oils, homemade soap, how to rebatch, Natures Garden, soap ingredients, soap making recipes, Soap making supplies, soap safety and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

rebatched soap How to Rebatch

Sometimes it is a hard pill to swallow, but when it comes to soaping, mistakes will be made, tears will fall, and you learn from your errors!

This week, we had a slight oversight.

All of our soaping ingredients were weighed out and ready for the combination and melt down.  We had the lye and water ready to make the lye mixture.  Everything else was prepped and ready to go.

We put on our safety gear and started the soap making procedure.  Everything seemed to be going flawlessly.  Our scent was perfect, the color combination was the spot on, and the soap batter poured beautifully into the mold.  It was soaping bliss.

Then, we started cleaning up.  That was when we found the sunflower oil.  It was still in its dish, waiting to be added to the soap recipe.  And, it was about 5% of our total soaping oils no less.

Devastated, it was now time to play the waiting game.  We had to wait for our beautiful soap to mold for at least 24 hours before it would be sturdy enough to remove it.

What resulted, after unmolding, was a gorgeous shade of green soap that broke into pieces when sliced.  Our soap was too lye heavy.  And, we knew this was because of the forgotten and overlooked sunflower oil.

One way to correct this soaping error was through rebatching.  Rebatching is almost like a do over for soap.  Although there are various reasons as to why you would rebatch, one of them is the fact that you can add an oil to your soap.  Our soaping oversight would be a perfect example to rebatch.

So, in order to save the 4 pound soap batch we had, we decided that we would take this opportunity to learn about rebatching and write a blog post on how to rebatch.  Although it was the very first time we ever attempted a rebatch, here is the process we did to show how to rebatch soap (pictures included).

Step 1:  Grate the soap.  This was no small feat for us.  In total, 4 pounds of soap took us about 45 minutes to do.

grating soap for rebatch

Step 2:  Melt the soap back down.  For this we selected to use our crock pot.  Since we had missed the first opportunity to add the sunflower oil, we did this now to the grated soap.

superfatting the rebatch

Step 3:  Stir.  Actually, this step is more like trying to rotate the soap.  Since you never want to scorch your soap when using a crock pot, this stir was more like a rotation of the soap within the crock pot.

melting the grated soap

Step 4:  Wait about 25-30 minutes, then check the soap again and stir/rotate.  The longer the soap melts, you will notice more of it becoming very gel like.

soap is still melting down

Step 5:  At this point, we noticed that the soap looked a little dry.  If this occurs, add a little water.

adding water to rebatch
Step 6:  Stir to disperse the water among all of the soap.

stirring the water through all of the soap
Step 7:  Wait for another 20 minutes or so, then give the soap a good stir.

a final good stir before rescenting
Step 8:  Add fragrance and stir.  Although we did scent the original batch, we wanted to rescent the rebatch for any scent that may have been lost through the saponification process and the reheating process.

rescenting and stirring one final time
Step 9:  Get your mold, and start to fill it with the soap.  Remember to tap your mold as you fill to reduce any bubbles that may be trapped in your soap.

molding your rebatch soap
Step 10:  Continue filling your mold and tapping it until all of the soap is out of the crock pot and into your mold.

molded rebatch soap
Step 11:  Insulate and wait.  The soap will need about 12 hours or so in the mold.  Once the time elapses, remove the soap from the molds and slice.

Our rebatched soap bars are awesome now.  They have a creamy full lather, and even better they don’t crumble and are actual bars!  Although the finished rebatch bars do have a rustic appeal, it kind of suits them.  Overall, this was a great learning experience, and we were able to save the 4 pound batch of soap.  Learning how to rebatch really was not difficult, and was well worth the effort in the end.

 

Apr
11

Argan Soap

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, cold process soap, cold process soap colorant, cold process soap scents, Fragrance Oils, Natures Garden, soap, soap colorants, soap ingredients, Soap making supplies, titanium dioxide and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

argan soap Hello everyone, today I made Argan Soap!

I am here to share my recent adventure in the world of soap making.  Today I made CP soap.  For those of you that are new at this, CP means cold process.  This is soaping without adding any additional heat.

I made this soap by creating my own recipe using the soapcalc.  This wonderful soaping tool was able to help me find ingredients and exact percentages for my homemade soaping recipe.  All of this information assisted me in producing my latest project.

For this soap cleverly named “Argan Soap”, I used Mango butter, Avocado oil, Coconut oil 76, Argan oil, and Sunflower oil.  To add a vibrant and tropical look to my soap, I selected Fun Colorants:  Neon orange and Neon blue.  I thought that these colors would look nice in combination with white.  So, I decided to also use titanium dioxide to get a nice bright white soap color.  I really felt that these colors captured the tone of the scent Kulu Bay, which I was using to fragrance my soap.

Due to the fact that I am SO over winter (clearing throat); I decided to try a soap with a summery feel.  Sorry, was venting (smiley face).   Also, I was going to try something new with this soap recipe.  For my very first time, I was doing the “in the pot swirl” technique using 3 colors.  I do have to say, I was beyond excited to get this going since I created this soap from beginning to end all by myself.

That is the moment I quickly became aware that I was DOING THIS BY MYSELF….Oh boy I thought.  No supervision, no guidance, nobody standing next to me for support, only my directions.

Ok, so, after getting all of my supplies, I put on my safety gear and began the first step.  Lye and water.  I want to caution any new soapers reading this:  Please remember to wear your gloves, mask, and safety glasses when handling the Lye and lye solution.  It is also just as important to have vinegar by your side (as your best friend) throughout your whole soaping process.  Vinegar is used in case the Lye or soap batter gets on your skin.

Once I melted all of my oils and butter, I waited for my Lye solution and oils to reach their desired temperature.  I then proceeded to put it all together and stick blended quickly to emulsification.

Being it was an in the pot swirl soap, I did have to put some of my soap batter into 2 smaller bowls and mix my colors really good.  That way I was ready to accomplish the swirl.

Moving quickly, I “plopped” globs of the orange and blue soap batter into the white batter.  I did this until it was all gone.  And, let me just tell you how fast you have to move to color, mix, and plop when using more than one color…holy cow!  You need to fly!  At this point, I was wondering why I used 3 colors….what was I thinking?  Creativity, that’s what!  Now not all recipes will do this, but it seems the one I chose was just that…FAST!

I did however get everything together and really enjoyed seeing my white, neon blue, and neon orange soap come together as I “swirled” around and through my colors.  After using my spatula to make this pretty cool design, I poured it into my silicone mold.  But, I poured it slowly back and forth from end to end.  I was mesmerized at how cool the colors were as they moved about inside the mold.

After the soap  in the mold had set up enough, I used the remaining batter to get an awesome heaping loaf of soap.  When I was done, I was happy with what I created.  A little stressed but only because I wanted it to be perfect.  I strive for perfection and unfortunately for me, I will fail at this (and have) a few times before I perfect it.  I am glad that I will fail however, only because it will make me a better soaper.  This is how you will learn, right?

When I tell my friends what I do here at Natures Garden, they are like, “wow, that sounds like so much fun”, and it is, creating and making your own stuff, heck ya!  Sometimes these recipes may seem a bit intimidating, but, be aware of your ingredients, and know their personalities and how they work together.  We have “fool” proof instructions, we HAVE failed too.  This is the best ways to become experts on what works.  When it comes to the free recipes that Natures Garden provides, what we present to you, is easily understood with virtually no guess work needed.

If you would like to see the full Argan Soap Recipe, please click on this link.

In closing, I can still say, it was a lot of fun making this soap; even if I did stress myself out.

We kids, until my next adventure, have a FABULOUS day!

Cindy

Mar
06

Tie Dye Soap

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, cold process soap, cold process soap colorant, cold process soap scents, colorants, creative, Fragrance Oils, Natures Garden, Soap making supplies and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

cup column swirl soapWatching all of the cool Youtube videos on making column swirl soap, we had to give it a try.  We thought that the column concept would make a great tie dye soap.  This soap recipe was our attempt at doing a column swirl soap.  Since we did not have wooden columns at our disposal, we thought we would improvise and try disposable cups.

To make this recipe, the majority of the ingredients and supplies can be found at Natures Garden.  You will however have to have water, lye, and your disposable cups- these items can not be purchased there.

For this soap, the scent that was selected was cannabis flower.  Now, since this scent has a vanillin content of .2%, we also included vanilla white color stabilizer in the recipe.  This decision was made after checking the cold process soap results for discoloration in this fragrance.  We saw that naturally without this additive the bar would discolor to a very light beige.  Considering we did not want our tie dye soap colors affected by this, it was a smart choice.  Also, since the mold that we are using is the 18 bar rectangle grid tray, we also decided to add sodium lactate to our recipe.  Not only will this allow the soap to be removed more easily from the mold, but it will also provide our finished bars with additional moisturizing aspects.

As for the colors in this soap, you can add as many or as few as you want.  Any of Natures Garden FUN Soap colorants will work!

So, lets get started in making tie dye soap.

Here is the recipe:
582 grams of water
215 grams of lye

413 grams of Shea Butter
306 grams of Coconut Oil 76
153 grams of Safflower Oil
107 grams of Rice Bran Oil
245 grams of Olive Oil pomace
184 grams of Meadowfoam Seed Oil
122 grams of Fractionated Coconut Oil
96 grams of Cannabis Flower Fragrance Oil
48 grams of Vanilla White Color Stabilizer
63 grams of Sodium Lactate

Now, if you would like to use the same colors shown in the steps, below are the weights.

Tie Dye Soap Colors:
6 grams of FUN Soap Colorant Neon Red
6 grams of FUN Soap Colorant Neon Yellow
6 grams of FUN Soap Colorant Neon Orange
6 grams of FUN Soap Colorant Neon Green
8 grams of FUN Soap Colorant Neon Blue
12 grams of FUN Soap Colorant Ultramarine Violet

If this is your first time making cold process soap, please Click Here For Basic CP Soap Making Class. Also, before attempting to make any cold process soap, please become familiar with Soap Making Safety Class.

Step 1:  Put on your safety gear:  This would include your safety gloves,  apron, safety mask, and safety glasses.

cp soap making safety gear

Step 2:  In your mold, space your 6 disposable cups equally apart from one another.

prepping your mold

Step 3:  In a small bowl, weigh out your lye.  In a separate bowl, weigh out your water.  In a well ventilated area, slowly pour the lye into the water.  Use a spatula to stir slowly.  Avoid breathing in any of the lye water fumes.  Keep stirring the lye water until there are no lye granules are left in the water.    Allow this to cool to 90-100 degrees F.

stirring the lye water

Step 4:  According to the recipe listed above: in a pot weigh out the Shea Butter and coconut oil 76.  Melt these two ingredients down on low heat until each one is in a liquid state.  Stir.  Then, add the safflower oil, rice bran oil, olive oil, meadowfoam seed oil, and fractionated coconut oil.  Stir again.  Remove from heat.  Then, transfer all of this into a large mixing bowl.

mixing your oils

Step 5:  Next, get your 6 mixing bowls.  Assign each bowl a color.  Then, weigh out the appropriate color amount for each bowl.

colorants in bowls

Step 6:  Using your thermometer, check the temperature of the lye water.  When it has cooled to 90 degrees Fahrenheit, add your Sodium Lactate.  Stir carefully.  Now, once the temperatures of the lye water and the soaping oils and butters are within 5-10 degrees of one another, it is time to move on to the next step.

adding sodium lactate to the recipe
Step 7:   Now, slowly pour the lye water/sodium lactate into your oils and butters bowl.  Use a spatula to get all of this out and into the other bowl.

adding lye water to the soaping oils

Step 8:  Using your stick blender, carefully mix everything together.  You will notice your batter will begin to look creamy and thicken slightly.  Now, stop blending.

blending the soap batter

Step 9:  Next, add the fragrance oil.

scenting the column swirl

Step 10:  Then, add the Vanilla White Color Stabilizer.  Once added, stick blend to incorporate.

adding vanilla white color stabilizer
Step 11:
  Now, place 405 grams of the soap batter into each bowl.  Stir each bowl with a spoon.  This will help slow down trace.

spoon stirred colored soap
Step 12: 
Starting with any one of your colors, begin to pour about half of the batter over 3 cups.  Repeat with a second and third color.  Then, using a new color, pour about half of the batter over the 3 cups that do not have soap over them yet.  Repeat this with your two remaining colors.  Then, with the remaining batter, keep covering different cups.  While you are doing this step, if any cups move, use your spatula to put them back into place.  When all of the pourable batter is out of your bowls, use your spatula to scrape the soap from the cups.  Then remove them.

column swirl pour
Step 13:  Now, using your spatula, scrape the colored bowls.  Then, splatter this soap over the mold.

splattering the soap
Step 14:  When all the soap is in the mold, insulate it and allow it to harden for 24 hours.

insulating your soap
Step 15:  After 24 hours, remove your soap from the mold.  Carefully, using a knife or a mitre cutter, slice the soap bars.  Once all of the soap is sliced, allow it to fully cure.

cutting your soap

After the cure time has elapsed, enjoy your Tie Dye Soap!

Natures Garden is not responsible for the performance of any of the recipes provided on our website. Testing is your responsibility. If you plan to resell any recipes we provide, it is your responsibility to adhere to all FDA regulations. If there are ingredients listed in a recipe that Natures Garden does not sell, we cannot offer any advice on where to purchase those ingredients.

 

 

Jan
13

Handmade Soap

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath bombs, bath products, body butter, cold process soap, creative, Fragrance Oils, Natures Garden, Soap making supplies and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

handmade soap My name is Amy Garrett, and I own Alberta Handmade Soap Co. It’s a tiny “just me with the support of my family” company located in rural Alberta so it’s been a lot of work getting seen, but I love my work and products, and my customers really make it worthwhile for me!

I am an American from Oregon who married a Canadian from Alberta, which is what started my soap making adventure (and living in Alberta) – I wanted to make handmade soap wedding favours, and it turned into a major part of my life! There was no way I could do it as a hobby, there is too many soaps to make in a week and my house couldn’t contain them all, so once we finished the immigration process into Canada and got moved up here, *and* learned all the Canadian legalities, I formed Alberta Handmade Soap Co. and it just keeps growing. It wasn’t long after bar soap that I started expanding what I make – it makes me very happy to make bath and body products that my customers love.

My specialty is cold process handmade soap, but I also make lotions and body butters, lip balms, bath bombs, and more, with more products on the horizon. I’m a new customer to Nature’s Garden, and the fragrance oils have been so well received in all my products – I am so happy with the quality! I use a few suppliers but can easily say that Nature’s Garden has replaced a large portion of my regular scents, and I’m adding so many new ones, they are all so nice; Pink Sugar and Pumpkin Apple Butter sold huge this season, what I thought would last me til spring is just about out of stock from just a month of holiday sales!

Dec
11

Fragrance Oil and Candle Making

This entry was posted in bath and body, candle fragrance oils, candle making supplies, fragrance oil, Fragrance Oils, Natures Garden, Soap making supplies, wholesale fragrance oils and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

fragrance oilWhen it comes to candle making, in order to have the best smelling candles, you must use concentrated fragrance oil.  There are a vast number of fragrance oil companies in the market, many of them sell good quality oils for candle making, and on the other hand there are some companies that sell lower cost fragrances which are usually diluted.  Never use any fragrance oils that are alcohol based for candle making.  Caution- there are companies that sell “potpourri fragrance oils”, these fragrance oils are about 50% concentrated.  They are cut with a product called DPG.  DPG (or dipropylene glycol) is used to dilute fragrance oils.  Do not use these types of fragrance oils for candle making, they will inhibit your candles from burning properly.

Once you have found a company that sells concentrated fragrance oils, you will only want to use 1 ounce to 1.5 ounces of candle scent per pound of wax.  As long as you have selected the right kind of wax- a high quality one- you will never need to use more than 1.5 ounces of candle scent per pound of wax.  Using more than the stated amount of fragrance oil in your candle wax will result in unused fragrance in the bottom of your pouring pot or candle container.  This is wasted fragrance oil that was not absorbed by your wax.

Natures Garden supplies 100% concentrated fragrance oils to its customers.  These scents were formulated by master perfumists, using aromatic chemicals and essential oils to create wonderfully smelling fragrances that can be used to make candles.  In fact, about 99% of Natures Garden’s fragrance oils also work in other applications besides candles.  This includes:  cosmetics, bath and body products, and even cold process soap.  Natures Garden is dedicated to providing its customers with unique, fine, fragrance oils at wholesale prices not retail prices.  Our company is able to sell these high quality oils at great prices because we are the largest supplier of fragrance oils in the USA, which has allowed us to achieve bulk buying power from our perfumists.  And then, we pass the savings on to our customers.  Our high quality, affordable-priced fragrance oils allow our customers to maintain high profit margins on their finished products.

Chemistry of Fragrance

Essential oils are 100% natural (usually plant derived).  These scenting oils are commonly attained by a process known as steam distillation.  Essential oils are very costly as compared to fragrance oils.  Fragrance oils came into existence because of these high costs.  Perfumists started replicating the aroma of certain essential oils by mixing the right combinations of over 3,000 various aromatic chemicals.  These aromatic chemicals are known as aldehydes and ketones.  Aldehydes and ketones are all polar to some degree.  It is actually impossible for fragrance oils to be NON Polar.  Every fragrance oil has some degree of polarity to them.  Yes, it is true that some fragrance oils will be more polar than others, but a fragrance oil can never be completely NON Polar.  Perfumists are able to create a fragrance oil that is less polar by using isopar solvents, but once again, there will still be a small degree of polarity from the aromatic chemicals used to form the fragrance oil.

Fragrance oils that are used to scent gel wax have to be on the lesser side of being polar.  A great tip for testing if a fragrance oil will work in gel wax is to first check the flashpoint.  The flashpoint of the oil has to be above 170 degrees Fahrenheit.  Then, see if the fragrance oil will mix in mineral oil, if the solution becomes cloudy, the fragrance oil will not work.  If the solution is clear, the fragrance oil is gel wax compatible.

MSDS/IFRA/RIFM

We at Natures Garden want to keep you informed on every single fragrance oil we carry.  All of the fragrance oils sold by Natures Garden abide by the safety recommendations set forth by the IFRA and RIFM standards.  Natures Garden also supplies the MSDS information for each and every fragrance oil as well.  The MSDS and IFRA Certification of Compliance can be found on the website, under the fragrance performance- testing in various applications section.  Each MSDS and IFRA certificate can be easily printed right off the Natures Garden website.  EU customers are now provided EU allergen reports for all of our fragrances.

Dec
07

Gifts for Guys

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Dude Fragrance Oil On the hunt for gifts for guys? 

This holiday season show those special men in your life just how much you appreciate them with a homemade gift.    Homemade gifts are heartfelt, memorable, and are way less expensive than department store presents.  Plus, being that your gift is homemade, you can cater it exactly to the person whether it is your boyfriend, husband, grandfather, brother, uncle, etc.

These easy to make recipes are written with step by step instruction, and are tried and true being formulated, made, and tested.

Hydrating Hand SticksHydrating Hand Sticks-  Perfect for your man in the elements, this recipe provides skin conditioning, moisturizing elements, and a “weather proof” coating for the skin, especially skin that is chapped and windburned.  A great gift idea for mechanics, construction workers, hunters, or anyone that enjoys the outdoors; these hydrating hand sticks are the perfect size to stay on the move with your busy man.

rejuvenating foot balmRejuvenating Foot Balm Recipe-  Great for tired and achy feet, this foot balm recipe will be heaven on earth for the men in your life that need a little pick me up.  With energizing essential oils and conditioning ingredients this recipe is awesome for any man on the move.

edible massage barSexy Edible Massage Bar-  A wonderful gift for any man that deserves a massage at the end of the day, this recipe is one you can both enjoy!  This massage bar is the answer if massage oils are a little to messy for you or the man in your life’s liking.

whipped-shaving-soap-pic2Whipped Shaving Cream-  A solution for any man of shaving age on your holiday gift list, this shaving cream recipe provides an excellent sleek shave free of nicks and cuts.   Plus with a rich lathering foam, this whipped shaving cream makes a wonderful gift for a ideal shave every time.

Winter Body Butter RecipeWinter Body Butter-  Winter can do a harsh number on the skin with the wind, low humidity, and bone chilling temperatures.  This winter time body butter recipe is especially moisturizing and nourishing.

beer candleBeer Candle-  What man would not love this beer candle?  Perfect for any manly man on your list, this gel wax candle smells and looks just like beer (it even has froth).  A great addition to any man cave!

green camoGreen Camouflage Candle-  If your man is the outdoors type, this granulated candle done in camouflage fashion is your answer.  Easy to make and fun to design, this scented candle will really stand out!

Cold Process Beer SoapBeer Cold Process Soap Recipe- If cold process soaping is nothing new to you, this beer soap recipe is a true winner.  With it’s thick and creamy lather, these soap bars are worth the extra effort.

Cold Process Shaving SoapCold Process Shaving Soap Recipe-  If the men on your holiday gift list hold grooming high in priority, this shaving soap will be exactly want they want.  With skin loving benefits and amazing lather, this easy to make shaving soap will have your man grinning from ear to ear.

Hunters Cold Process SoapHunter’s Cold Process Soap-  Receiving rave reviews, this cold process soap recipe is loved by every man, especially the “hunting crowd”.

On a special note:  Because you are making these recipes from scratch, you are able to scent these items with any fragrance oil (body safe fragrance oil if it is a body product).  To see a full list of all the fragrance oil possibilities please click here.  If you are interested in masculine type fragrance oils like designer scents, or man themed aromas, check out Natures Garden’s Masculine Category of fragrances.

 

Nov
18

Strawberry Passion Fragrance Oil

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath and body fragrances, candle fragrance oils, fragrance oil, Fragrance Oils, hot scent throw, Natures Garden and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

Strawberry Passion Fragrance OilStrawberry Passion Fragrance OilFragrance Oil Spotlight

Rated by our customers as the “perfect strawberry scent”, Strawberry Passion fragrance is the real deal when it comes to authenticity.  This sweet and amazing scent smells just like fresh cut strawberries, with no artificial notes on this yummy fragrance.  A mouth watering and well rounded aroma, strawberry passion fragrance oil is a best seller year round, but especially moves for Valentine’s Day!

What does Strawberry Passion Smell Like?

This fragrance oil by Natures Garden is a rich ripened strawberry fragrance with bottom notes of cotton candy and French vanilla. Your customers will love it! A Best Seller!  An NG Original Fragrance!

How Do Our Customers Use Strawberry Passion Fragrance Oil?

For all of you candle crafters out there; strawberry passion fragrance oil is used in Palm, soy, soy blends, paraffin, WOW, Joy, and Pillar of Bliss waxes.  If you are looking for a cute and creative spin, this scent also makes awesome pie candles.  Strawberry Passion has a strong and steady hot throw and a divine cold throw.  This fragrance oil also works great in oil burners, as well as for room fresheners, whether it is odor eliminator, smelly jellies, or sachet beads.

For bath and body crafters, this fragrance is a winner!  The usage percent of Strawberry Passion Fragrance Oil is 5%, and the Vanillin Content is 8.3% so Vanilla White Color Stabilizer is advised by our customers to stabilize discoloration in finished products.  This amazing fragrance is used to make: liquid soaps, solid lotion bars, bath bombs, body scrubs, lotions, perfumes, melt and pour soaps, body sprays, bath gels, whipped butters, body mists, and massage oils.  Finally, for those of you that are cold process soapers, this fragrance did awesome.  Here are the official results:  Perfect Pour.  No ricing, no acceleration.  Discolors to a dark chocolate.