Category Archives: bath products

Jul
02

Coconut Oil 76 in CP Soap

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, cold process soap, Natures Garden, Natures Garden Fragrance Oils, Soap making supplies, Uncategorized and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

Coconut-Oil-76-in-CP-SoapCoconut Oil 76 in CP Soap

You’ll go coco-nuts for coconut oil 76 in CP soap. What does the ’76’ mean? It simply denotes that this type of coconut oil has a melting point of 76 degrees Fahrenheit. Coconut oil has many beneficial properties for use in all sorts of products–it’s even edible!!–but for our purposes, we’re going to discuss coconut oil 76 in CP soap. (Please do NOT attempt to eat the soap.)

Coco Clean

Our cold process soap testing recipe features coconut oil as the second most abundant ingredient (by weight) after water. Rightfully so, for you see, coconut oil is comprised primarily of lauric and myristic fatty acids which are characterized in soap-making by providing cleansing properties, a bubbly lather, and hardness. Coco-o is a surfactant, meaning it reduces the surface tension of a liquid when it is dissolved, allowing the dirt and impurities to be rinsed off of the skin.

Coco Cream

In addition, the high content of saturated fat serves to give coconut oil a higher SAP value (the number of milligrams of lye that is needed to completely saponify, or turn into soap, one gram of a specific oil, butter, or fat. — Lye, while generally thought of as a bad guy, is a necessary evil for the saponification process. Always remember to follow safety procedures when handling lye. [Add lye to water, the mixture will get hotter; add water to lye, you’ll probably die]). Remember that rhyme to ensure safety.  While you will likely NOT actually DIE, you can surly get hurt from the lye volcano you will create if you add water to lye.  SO…Don’t ever do that!  Always add your lye to your water.  The high SAP value of coco-o helps to superfat the soap (the amount of lye used is less than the given SAP value), giving it a nice, creamy texture and more lather ability. You can thank coconut oil for making your homemade CP soap clean and bubbly.

Coco – What the heck does that mean?

Furthermore, coconut oil serves as an emulsion stabilizer. What the heck does that mean? You may already know, but I just learned about this today, so I’m going to recap for myself and the benefit of anyone out there who’s not entirely sure. An emulsion is a mixture of two things that don’t really want to go together– for instance, oil and water. Water is the number one ingredient (by weight) in our CP soaps, and just about everything else is some type of oil (apricot kernel oil, castor oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, fragrance oil, and- of course- coconut oil 76). An emulsion stabilizer helps to keep this mixture from separating. This means, not only will it help hold your soap together, it will also help hold the fragrance. (Don’t worry, the coconut oil itself has been refined so it is odorless. Unless you ARE looking for a coconut fragrance in your soap. If so, we’ve got ten coconutrelated scents you may enjoy using!)

Coco No-no

Oh, wow, you’re thinking. Coconut oil 76 in CP soap is so great, I want to use as much of it as possible! And of course you do, but how much is too much?  A typical soap recipe calls for 20-30% coconut oil. It’s important not to use more than 30% coconut oil. Why? Is it possible to be TOO clean? The excess coconut oil 76 in CP soap will interact with the natural oils on your skin and dry it right out. But if you use the appropriate amount of coconut oil, it works in the soap to help clean skin and even reduce inflammation.

Cococonclusion

Coconut oil 76 in CP soap is awesome as long as you’re careful not to use too much in your recipe. So go ahead– what are you waiting for? Follow the links above to purchase coconut oil 76 and other ingredients for our CP soap testing recipe or one of our other fun CP soap recipes. Browse our wide array of fragrance oils to find a scent that you love. Thanks for reading and happy soaping!

May
30

Shadowing Natures Garden

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IMG_0194Shadowing Natures Garden

The past couple of weeks we have had two high school seniors shadowing Natures Garden.  These two wonderful ladies, Kacie and Caitlyn, have been an absolute blast! We’re very sad to see them go but their time here was definitely well spent. Not only did they get the opportunity to see how we operate at Natures Garden, but they made some pretty cool projects along the way. Now, I’d like to share some of what these lovely girls have been working on during the past couple weeks.

Prior to starting any projects we needed to know what types of fragrance oils the girls liked most. This way we could have them making all sorts of projects with their favorite scents! Therefore, we had them go to the fragrance bar, which is located in the Natures Garden store, to smell all sorts of our delightful fragrance oils. After smelling everything that they could, Kacie and Caitlyn each picked out ten of their favorite scents. They also picked out some of their favorite recipes from our recipe box. Finally we could begin on the real fun, turning these fragrances into your very own soaps, candles, or anything else you can imagine.IMG_0153fragrance-barIMG_0154

 

 

 

 

The first project the girls tried out was the Hydrangea Candle Recipe. They used one of their shared favorite scents, Blue Raspberry Slushie Fragrance Oil, and they both turned out great. Not only was their first project a complete success, but we were all pretty impressed with these candles and their colors choices.

Another beautiful creation was done using the Easter Confetti Soap Recipe. This fairly simple melt and pour recipe turned out to be a very lovely loaf. Not only did their soap loaves look fantastic but the Pink Orchid and Amber Fragrance Oil had their bars smelling amazing as well.confetti-soap1confetti-soap

 

 

 

 

One recipe that the girls were especially excited for was bath bombs. These bath time delights were made using, one of Kacie’s favorite fragrances, County Apple Fragrance Oil. Although the girls used the Orange Dreamsickle Bath Bomb Recipe, they gave it a slight twist by adding pink!bath-bombs2bath-bombbath-bombs-3

 

 

 

 

Next, the girls even learned how to make their own soap from scratch! They did an awesome in the pot swirl using the World Peace Cold Process Soap Recipe. The colors were vibrant and amazing just like the scent that was used, Fruity Rings Fragrance Oil.

world-peace-soap

world-peace-soap2

world-peace-soap3

 

 

 

 

Another method they learned in soap making was how to do hot process soap. The Purrs and Paws HP Soap Recipe was used to create these loaves and NG Aqua Di Gio Type Fragrance Oil was added as well. The loaves had glitter added and turned out to be quite pretty.

Also, the girls helped create a couple new recipes that will be coming soon! The first recipe is a melt and pour soap recipe that we really hope you’ll enjoy. The second recipe is new a lotion recipe that we are very excited to share with you.

It was great to have Kacie and Caitlyn working with us on all of these fun projects. It seems that these ladies got everything that they needed out of shadowing Natures Garden and have a better understanding of Nature’s Garden and what goes on here. They are both very funny and wonderful girls and we hope that they come back to visit us in the future! We would like to wish them the best of luck as they graduate from high school and prepare for college.  It truly was a pleasure to work with the two of you!

Apr
09

Fragrance Testing in CP Soap

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fragrance testing in CP soapFragrance Testing in CP Soap

Hello everyone! Do you have any questions about what happens when we test our fragrances? Specifically with fragrance testing in CP soap? Well, we actually go through this process with all of our fragrances and there are quite a few specific things we look for throughout.

To start off, when making a normal soap recipe, we recommend soaping at room temperature (72 degrees Fahrenheit). However, for fragrance testing, we soap at 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Using this temperature will give you less time to “play” with the soap, and will basically force the fragrance to show any problems it may have more quickly.

For fragrance testing, we use our free recipe for our Shea Butter Soap; a recipe that includes Olive Oil, Shea Butter, Coconut Oil, and Palm Oil.

Step 1:  Determining if a fragrance sample designed by our perfumist smells good enough for us to soap test.  We call this stage “Test Stripping”.  We start by putting a little bit of each fragrance onto a test strip (blotter paper) and smell them.  The initial smell of scent on a test strip allows us to see how strong the “top notes” of a fragrance is.  Then we let the test strips sit for about half an hour, then check to see if the scent has stayed, lessened, or gotten stronger. During this stage of smelling, we are able to notice more of the middle notes and base notes of the scent.  You see, at Natures Garden, we typically reject hundreds of scents each year during the test stripping alone.  For scents that do make the cut, we move on to step number 2.

Step 2:  Testing the fragrance in soap.  Once we have made our recipe and have added the correct amount of fragrance (typically 5% fragrance per batch unless IFRA is less), there are quite a few things we look for. We look for and record if there is any acceleration.  Acceleration is when a fragrance oil causes the soap to trace at a faster rate than soap without fragrance would.  When a fragrance oil causes accelerated trace, a soap maker must move faster when working with the soap.  This can also make it more difficult to create colored swirls in your soap.

We also look for ricing, (soap batter that looks like rice pellets).  Typically soap that rices can be beat into submission with a stick blender.  We look for separation (fragrance will not mix with the soap, oils keep separating from the soap).

Sometimes fragrance oil will separate out of the soap batter.  Usually fragrance oil will absorb back into the soap during cure, but if the oil separation is full-blown, it may cause even cured soap to be oily.

We also look for seizing (fragrance causes the soap to set up as soon as it as added).  Soapers refer to this as “Soap on a stick”.  Sometimes soapers are able to beat the batter back into submission with a stick blender, and other times it is impossible.  Seized soap is not ruined soap, it is just soap that is no longer pliable.  If allowed to cure, seized soap can be used just like soap that you had no problems making.

While cold process soap normally should cure for about 6 weeks, we oven-process soap for our fragrance testing. Oven-processing the soap in molds for about 2 1/2 hours on a temperature of about 170 degrees Fahrenheit will help the soap to cure faster, and you will only need to let it cure for about 4 weeks. When oven-processing the soap, you may see some separation. The fragrance may rise to the top of the soap and separate, but most of the time, the soap will reabsorb the oil.  Oven processing also allows us to see some discoloration (if the soap is going to discolor).  Typically, if a soap shows discoloration after oven processing, it will continue to discolor more during the cure phase.

After the soaps have finished their oven-process time, they can be unmolded 24 hours later. If any of the fragrances have separated during this process, wait until they reabsorb to unmold the soap. If they never reabsorb, you will know that that fragrance has a separation problem.

There are a few other things that we look for once we have taken them from the oven. We check for if the scent of each fragrance has changed or morphed throughout the saponification process. However, always remember not to judge the scent right away. Even if it has changed throughout the saponification process, wait to judge until after it has had enough time to fully cure, as it may change back.

We also look to see if there is any fragrance burn off that occurs during saponification, meaning that the fragrance may not smell as strong anymore or the notes you noticed in the beginning no longer exist. Usually, fragrance oils will not have a  major burn off problem as they contain fixatives that help to anchor the scent. However, lower flash point scents have a higher chance of some burn-off than higher flash point scents.  Some soapers add clay to their soap batter to help anchor their scents.  Essential oils do not contain fixatives, so if you are testing essential oils, you will have more of a chance of burn-off than you would with fragrance oils.

Another thing we check for after unmolding is for discoloration. Fragrances that contain vanillin can cause discoloration, but it is mainly with fragrances that have a content of above .5%.

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Oven Processing

 

 

 

Soaps for fragrance testing should sit and cure for about 4 weeks. Throughout that time period, we check to see if the scent of each fragrance sticks and stays strong throughout the whole time. Once in a while, a fragrance may come along that will not work in cold process soap and never will. Make sure to remember that if you come across a fragrance like this, it will work in hot process soaps! Once the 4 weeks has passed, we check again to see if any final discoloration or separation has happened and how well the fragrance has stuck. Make sure to check out our free class for our Fragrances Tested in Cold Process Soap. This class gives a full list of all of our fragrances that we have tested, as well as the recipe for our Shea Butter Soap that we use for testing.

Make sure to check out all the rest of our free classes and recipes as well! Keep watching for more Enlightened by Layla!

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Apr
06

Making Taiwan Swirl Soap

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, free recipe, Natures Garden, soap, Soap making supplies, soap recipe, Uncategorized and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

making taiwan swirl soapMaking Taiwan Swirl Soap

For all the soap makers out there, have you ever tried making Taiwan Swirl soap before? I’ve been experimenting with making so many soaps lately, and this one turned out absolutely beautifully! We’re bringing you the free recipe for this wonderful soap so that you can make it yourself! This is one soap that your friends, family, and even your customers are sure to love! We have used our Shea Butter Cold Process Soap recipe for the base.

 

Ingredients:

125 grams of Lye

272 grams of Shea Butter

272 grams of Olive Oil

181 grams of Palm Oil

181 grams of Coconut Oil

345 grams of Distilled Water

72 grams of NG Water Lily & Jasmine Type Fragrance Oil

11 grams of Titanium Dioxide 

11 drops of Neon Pink FUN Soap Colorant

10 drops of Neon Blue FUN Soap Colorant

10 drops of Ultramarine Violet FUN Soap Colorant

Other Ingredients Needed:

Square Loaf Mold Market Mold

Thermometer

Safety Gloves

Safety Mask

Safety Glasses

Vinegar

Scale

Stick Blender

Barbecue Skewers

Spatulas

Mixing Bowls

Cardboard or Straight Dividers for Soap Making

Directions:

making taiwan swirl soap

 

When working with lye, always make sure to wear your protective glasses, mask, and gloves! Start by preparing your lye water. Measure and weigh out 345 grams of distilled water and 125 grams of lye. Carefully pour the lye into the water. Never pour water into lye as this can cause an explosion! Mix thoroughly and set your lye water aside to cool.

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

While you’re waiting for that to cool, go ahead and get your butters and oils ready. Measure and weigh out 181 grams of Palm Oil, 272 grams of Olive Oil, 181 grams of Coconut Oil, and 272 grams of Shea Butter. Melt them down completely and set them aside to cool as well.

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

 

You can also prepare your colors as you’re waiting for those to cool. In three separate bowls, measure out 11 drops of Neon Pink colorant, 10 drops of Ultramarine, and 10 drops of Neon Blue. In another bowl, measure out 11 grams of Titanium Dioxide and pour in just a little bit of oil. Mix them together until it has a become a paste-like consistency.

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

You can also prepare your diving tool. We have used just regular cardboard to divide our soap, however you can also use a straight soap divider! Place your division tool inside your mold at this point to make it easier for you later!

 

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

Keep checking the temperatures of your lye water and oils using your thermometer. Once they have reached around room temperature (72 degrees Fahrenheit) and are within ten degrees of each other, they are ready to combine. Carefully pour your lye water into your oils and mix them together thoroughly.

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

 

When they are completely mixed, pour 358 grams of the mixture into each colored bowl. In a separate bowl, pour the last 358 grams and add your titanium paste. Mix all of these thoroughly until you have achieved all over white, pink, blue, and purple colors.

 

 

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

 

Then add 18 grams of Water Lily & Jasmine Type fragrance to each bowl, again mixing them thoroughly.

 

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

Now your soap will be ready to pour. Make sure your dividers go all the way to the bottom of the mold. We poured our pink first, into the first division on our mold. Leave a little bit in the bowl for the top of the soap. Repeat this will each other color.

 

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

Once you have finished pouring your soap, carefully remove your dividers from your soap. Once we removed our dividers, we used a skewer to swirl the base of our soap going in a mantra swirl from side to side across the whole soap.

 

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then pour the rest of each color on top in a straight line.

 

 

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

 

Using a skewer, place it down into just the top of your soap and begin to swirl, again in a manta swirl from side to side.

 

making taiwan swirl soap

 

 

 

After your manta swirl, place the skewer in a corner of your soap and drag it from end to end in a Taiwan swirl across the whole top of your soap.

 

 

After you have swirled your soap, it will need to set up for at least 24 hours before removing it from the mold. Once your Taiwan Swirl soap has been removed from its mold, it will need to sit for at least 4 to 6 weeks, giving it enough time to cure and become less alkaline. Make sure to check out all the rest of our free recipes and classes as well! Watch out for more Enlightened by Layla!

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Apr
06

Taiwan Soap Problems

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taiwan soap problemsTaiwan Soap Problems

Hello everyone! As I’m sure you all know, lately I’ve been experimenting with making many different soap recipes. One of the recipes I made this week was actually a Taiwan Swirl Soap. It seemed like such a gorgeous idea and I figured I could handle that! Well, I actually ended up making this soap twice, because the first time I tried out this recipe, I ended up having quite a few problems! However, being a beginner, these problems were actually a great learning experience.

One of my first problems was temperature. In cold process soap making, you have to wait for your lye water and oils to cool down to the right temperature before creating your soap. The most common temperature used is around 100 degrees Fahrenheit. However, for cold process soaping, if you wait until your lye and oils have gone down to room temperature (72 degrees Fahrenheit) and are within ten degrees of each other, the lower temperature will actually give you more time to work and create your soap. On my first batch of this soap, I did not wait to soap at 72 degrees. Instead, I began the soap making process at 100 degrees. The higher temperatures gave me less time to work and my soap ended up setting up much faster than I wanted!

Because my soap set up faster than I wanted, I had problems creating my swirls in this batch of soap. By the time that I was pouring the top of the soap, it had already begun to harden and clump. As you can see in the picture below, by the time I was able to begin swirling the top of the soap, the blue topping was already setting up. This caused the swirling effect not to turn out.

taiwan soap problems

 

I also colored the base the exact same blue as the blue on top. In theory, we thought a blue base with blue, pink, purple, and white on top would be beautiful! In reality, because they were the exact shade of blue, it was not an appealing look. For the second batch, I added all four colors throughout the entire soap and swirled them. This gave a gorgeous effect instead of just having random colors on only parts of the top of the soap.

Always remember, soaping at a lower temperature will give you so much more time to work to create your soap! If you soap at higher temperatures, you will have to work faster to create it all. While my Taiwan Soap problems were minor, I thought you would all like to know what happened! For all the experienced soap makers out there, I would love to hear about any problems you’ve encountered making a soap like this! Please contact us here at Nature’s Garden! You can always contact us if you have any thoughts, questions, or concerns as well! Make sure to go and check out all of our amazing free recipes and classes! Remember to keep watching for even more Enlightened by Layla!

enlightened-by-layla

 

Apr
01

Spearmint Soap Problems

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spearmint soap problemsSpearmint Soap Problems

Hello everyone! As you know, I’ve recently been making many different soap recipes and learning more and more about the soap making process. We posted a blog about the wonderful Spearmint Soap I made using our Spearmint Fragrance Oil, and now I’m back to tell you all about some of the problems I had making that gorgeous gray and green soap. That beautiful soap was actually my second time making this recipe, and as I’m sure you’ve figured out, the first time didn’t go so well! In the first recipe, instead of doing green and gray swirls, I instead tried out just an all-over green base.

One of my first problems was with my white topping for the soap. I had researched so many different pictures and had seen so many lovely whipped soap toppings that I thought this was one soap I could easily whip up and create myself! However, once I had prepared and poured my green soap base, I was waiting for my white topping to set up to a frosting consistency so that I would be able to fluff it all over the top of the soap. However, while I was waiting, I panicked and poured the white on top way too soon. This caused my top to not be able to peak as well as not being fluff-like. Because I poured too soon and my topping was still not fully set up, this also caused part of the white to sink into the green soap since the green soap was not fully set up either. You can definitely see the sinking after the soap was cut, there were no straight lines and you can see the spots where the topping sank right in! So for all of you other soap makers out there, always make sure to give your topping enough time to set up, or else you will end up with your topping sinking into your base! You also won’t be able to peak the top like you want!

Another big problem I had was using way too much green colorant for the base of my soap. Instead of coming out with a beautiful mint green color like the remake, the green of my first Spearmint Soap was a dark hunter-like green. While there is nothing wrong with a hunter green, this color did not go with the Spearmint theme. Once I completed the remake, this soap turned out absolutely beautiful! Have any of you experienced soap makers out there had any mistakes like these? I would love to hear about them! Please contact me here at Nature’s Garden, or you can always contact us here with any thoughts, concerns, or questions that you may have! Make sure to check out all of our wonderful free recipes and classes! You’re sure to adore each and every one of our recipes! Make sure to check out all of our Soap Classes as well to help you along! Make sure to keep watching for even more Enlightened by Layla!

enlightened-by-layla

Mar
30

Tiger Stripe Soap Recipe

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tiger stripe soap recipeTiger Stripe Soap Recipe

What inspires you? Well, here at Nature’s Garden, we are inspired by pretty much everything, but lately we’ve been on a serious animal print kick! We found this amazing picture of this gorgeous tiger and couldn’t wait to get started on making a tiger stripe soap recipe! And we of course have used our Animalistic Instinct Fragrance, I mean how could we not? It’s absolutely perfect!

tiger stripe soap recipe

 

 

 

Our wonderful inspiration!

 

 

 

animalistic instinct fragrance oil

 

 

 

Make sure to try out our amazing Animalistic Instinct scent!

 

 

 

Ingredients:

272 grams of Olive Oil

272 grams of Shea Butter

181 grams of Palm Oil

181 grams of Coconut Oil

70 grams of Animalistic Instinct Fragrance Oil

15 grams of Titanium Dioxide

7 grams of Neon Orange FUN Soap Colorant

5 grams of Black Oxide FUN Soap Colorant

125 grams of Lye

345 grams of Distilled Water

Other Ingredients Needed:

Square Loaf Mold Market Mold

Thermometer

Safety Mask

Safety Glasses

Safety Gloves

Stick Blender

Scale

Vinegar

Spatulas

Mixing Bowls

 

Directions:

animalistic instinct soap

 

Always make sure to protect yourself first with your gloves, glasses, and mask! Then you can prepare your lye water. Weigh 345 grams of distilled water, and 125 grams of lye. Carefully pour your lye into your water. Never pour water into lye! This can cause an explosion! Thoroughly mix your lye water and then set it aside to cool down.

 

animalistic instinct soap

 

 

Next, you can get your butters and oils ready. Weigh out 272 grams of Shea Butter, 272 grams of Olive Oil, 181 grams of Palm Oil, and 181 grams of Coconut Oil 76. Melt these down completely and then set them aside to cool as well.

 

animalistic instinct soap

 

While you are waiting for both of these to cool, you can get your colors ready. In separate bowls, add 5 grams of Black Oxide colorant, and 7 grams of Neon Orange. Then in another bowl, measure out 15 grams of Titanium Dioxide, mixing this thoroughly with just a little bit of your oils from your base bowl until you have achieved a paste-like consistency.

 

animalistic instinct soap

 

Make sure to keep checking your oils and lye water temperatures using your thermometer, until they have reached about 72 degrees Fahrenheit (room temperature) and are within ten degrees of each other. Then carefully pour your lye water into your butters and oils, mixing it together very thoroughly with a stick blender until you have come to a light trace.

 

animalistic instinct soap

 

 

When your mixture is at a light trace, pour 400 grams into the bowl with black colorant, 500 into the orange, and 500 in a separate bowl, adding your titanium paste to this last bowl. Then thoroughly mix each color. Make sure to add 20 grams of your Animalistic Instinct fragrance to your black bowl, and 25 grams to the orange and white. Again, make sure to mix them thoroughly!

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Once your colors are completely mixed, you can begin to pour them into your mold. We started with our orange, carefully pouring just a little bit in a straight line all the way across the mold.

 

 

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Then we alternated all three colors until the mold was almost full, leaving just a little bit of each color in our bowls.

animalistic instinct soap

 

 

 

 

With the remaining colors, we splattered it over the top of the soap into gorgeous designs! Splatter the rest of your soap however your heart desires!

 

 

Once you have finished your soap, it will need to sit to set up for at least 24 hours before removing it from the mold. Once it is removed, your new Tiger Stripe Soap will need to sit for at least 4 to 6 weeks to give it enough time to cure and become less alkaline. After that, your soap will be ready for you to use and enjoy! Check out all the rest of our free recipes and classes and watch out for more Enlightened by Layla!

enlightened-by-layla

Mar
28

Aqua di Gio Soap

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, free recipe, Natures Garden, soap, Soap making supplies, soap recipe and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

aqua di gio soapAqua di Gio Soap

What do you think of when you hear “Aqua di Gio?” Beautiful blue waters and hot summer nights maybe? And don’t forget about the hot man coming out of the crystal blue water.  LOL! Well, here at Nature’s Garden, we’ve come up with the perfect soap recipe to capture the feeling of a romantic summer night spent with a man so hot it raises the temperature in the atmosphere! We’re introducing our new free recipe for our Aqua di Gio Soap!

 

Ingredients:

181 grams of Coconut Oil

181 grams of Palm Oil

272 grams of Olive Oil

272 grams of Shea Butter

69 grams of NG Aqua di Gio Type Fragrance Oil

125 grams of Lye

345 grams of Distilled Water

17 grams of Titanium Dioxide

8 grams of Sodium Lactate

6 drops of Neon Blue FUN Soap Colorant

7 drops of Teal FUN Soap Colorant

Other Ingredients Needed:

Square Loaf Mold Market Mold

Thermometer

Safety Gloves

Safety Mask

Safety Glasses

Stick Blender

Vinegar

Scale

Mixing Bowls

Spatulas

Barbecue Skewers

 

Directions:

aqua di gio soap

 

Safety first! Always make sure you are wearing your protective glasses, gloves, and mask! Then begin by preparing your lye water. Weigh out 345 grams of distilled water and then weigh out 125 grams of lye. Carefully add the lye to your water, never add water to lye as this can cause an explosion! Mix thoroughly and then set it aside to cool.

 

aqua di gio soap

 

 

While you’re waiting for that to cool, go ahead and prepare your butters and oils. Weigh out 272 grams of Shea Butter, 272 grams of Olive Oil, 181 grams of Palm Oil, and 181 grams of Coconut Oil. Melt them down completely and then set them aside to cool as well.

 

aqua di gio soap

 

As you are waiting for those to cool, go ahead and get your colors ready. In two separate mixing bowls, measure out 6 drops of Neon Blue colorant and 7 drops of Teal. Then measure out 17 grams of Titanium Dioxide and pour just a little bit of your oils into the bowl with the titanium, mixing them together until you have achieved a paste-like consistency. This will be your color for your white swirl.

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Using the thermometer, check the temperatures of your oils and lye water until they have reached about room temperature (72 degrees Fahrenheit) and are within ten degrees of each other. Once they are at the correct temperature, pour 8 grams of Sodium Lactate into your lye water and mix it together thoroughly.

 

 

025

 

 

 

Then go ahead and carefully pour your lye water into your oils. Mix them together thoroughly.

 

aqua di gio soap

 

 

 

Then pour 459 grams of your mixture into the bowls with your colorants, mixing them thoroughly with a stick blender. In your base bowl with the remaining mixture, add your titanium dioxide paste and mix. In each bowl, add 23 grams of your NG Aqua di Gio Type fragrance and stick blend.

 

aqua di gio soap

 

 

 

Next, in a separate bowl, pour each of your colors into separate sections of the bowl.

 

 

aqua di gio soap

 

 

Once they are completely poured, place a spatula at the edge of the bowl and drag it all the way across in a straight line. Then place the spatula right where two colors begin to mix and drag it around the bowl in a full circle.

 

aqua di gio soap

 

 

When you are finished swirling your soap, you can begin to pour it into your mold. Carefully pour it from side to side in the mold, helping to achieve an even better swirl! Make sure to leave just a little bit of each color so that you can swirl the top of your soap!

 

aqua di gio soap

 

 

 

Taking the last of your colored soap, pour each color in a straight line across the top.

 

 

aqua di gio soap

 

 

 

Then with your skewer, swirl the top of your soap!

 

 

 

Make sure to let your soap sit for at least 24 hours before removing it from the mold. Once it has been removed from the mold, your new Aqua di Gio Soap will need to sit for at least 4 to 6 weeks before using; giving it enough time to cure and become less alkaline. Then it is ready for you to use and enjoy! Make sure to check out all the rest of our free recipes and classes as well, and keep watching for more Enlightened by Layla!

enlightened-by-layla

Mar
27

Sodium Lactate in Soap

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, Natures Garden, soap making problems, Soap making supplies, sodium lactate and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

sodium-lactate-in-soapSodium Lactate in Soap

Hello everyone! I’m sure you’ve seen from most of my recent blogs that I’ve been experimenting with making many different soaps lately. I recently attempted making a Tiger Swirl Soap, and I actually had one major problem with it! While it was a beginner’s problem, I’m actually glad it happened so that I could learn from it! Have you ever experienced any problems while using sodium lactate in soap? For the base of this soap, I used our Shea Butter Cold Process Soap recipe, which happens to have 181 grams of Palm Oil in it. The palm oil actually contributed to the problem I had with using a high amount of sodium lactate in the soap.

In my Tiger Swirl Soap, I included Sodium Lactate in my recipe. Since Sodium Lactate helps to make your soap easier to remove from your mold, it seemed like a wonderful ingredient to include in my recipe! I added 55 grams of our Sodium Lactate to my lye water and thought that I was going to be so much better off! I finished my soap and it came out quite beautifully, beautiful bright orange, white, and bright green swirls! This was one soap that all of us here at Nature’s Garden were extremely excited about!

However, when we finally removed my Tiger Swirl soap from its mold and attempted to cut it, it just kept falling apart. This soap would literally just crumble in our hands. We were so disappointed, but then we tried to figure out what our problem might have been. First we thought maybe our calculations were off? But then we got to thinking about the Sodium Lactate since this was the first soap I’ve ever made with that particular ingredient. Sodium Lactate is used in cold process soap to help make a harder bar of soap. It can also be used to help your soap set up faster, so that you can remove it from your mold sooner!

After some research, we finally figured out my problem! Because I already had a high amount of Palm Oil in my soap, the addition of high levels of sodium lactate actually hardened the soap more than what we would have liked. This was caused because the combination of Palm Oil and Sodium Lactate made my soap way too hard and crumbly.

Don’t worry, these beautiful orange and green swirls will be back! I’m going to remake this soap without the Sodium Lactate and see how it turns out then! I will be back to report! While using a high amount of Sodium Lactate with Palm Oil is apparently not a good idea, you can still use just a small amount. For example, in the Aqua Di Gio soap I made after the Tiger Swirl, I only used 8 grams. (I still used our Shea Butter Soap for that base.) That soap turned out absolutely perfect! However, now we do recommend using Sodium Lactate mainly in palm-free recipes. Have you ever had any problems using sodium lactate in soap? I would love to hear from you! Make sure to check out all of our free classes and recipes, and keep watching for more Enlightened by Layla!

enlightened-by-layla

Mar
24

Soap Dye Color Morphing

This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, cold process soap, Natures Garden, soap, Soap making supplies, Uncategorized and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

soap dye color morphingSoap Dye Color Morphing

We’ve been experimenting with our soap colorants lately here at Nature’s Garden, going between our dyes and pigments. We’ve talked about our blue dye and how it can morph your cold process soap, but have you tried our reds or yellows? Well we have! Like with the blue colorants, we used our red and yellow FD&C Da Bomb dyes in cold process and melt and pour soap to show you the differences! As we all know, our pigmented colorants, or FUN Soap colors, will not cause any morphing problems in melt and pour or cold process, and we have conducted this experiment to see if the same is true for our yellow and red FD&C dyes!

Our red FD&C dye was experimented with in both our melt and soaps as well as cold process. In melt and pour, it brought an awesome bright red color as soon as it was added! However, when used in cold process at first we were concerned that it may have the same problems as our blue FD&C dye with color morphing. When I first mixed it into the soap, it was definitely red! However, after I poured it into the mold, it did start to look like an orange color! But after we let the soap sit for the required 24 hours we realized that it was a brick red. So don’t be concerned if you use our red FD&C dye in cold process and it looks orange at first! It does not color morph as badly as the blue! We do recommend using our FUN Soap pigmented colorants over the FD&C dyes for cold process soaps however since the Da Bomb soap dyes can bleed and fade over time.

soap dye color morphing

 

 

 

Melt and Pour Soap using FD&C Dyes

 

 

 

soap dye color morphing

 

 

 

Cold Process Soap Using FD&C Dyes

 

 

 

cold process soap pigments

 

 

 

Cold Process Soap Using Pigments

 

 

 

With our yellow FD&C dye, as you can see in the pictures above, we have tried it out in both melt and pour soap and cold process. It brought a beautiful bright yellow to our melt and pour, and the same goes for our cold process. There was no doubt that it was yellow in cold process! Both of our yellow colorants, FD&C and FUN Soaps, work very well in melt and pour and cold process soap.

The usage of each different kind of colorant for your soaps is based on the pH levels as well as the actual saponification process. Melt and pour soap is technically soap that has already gone through the process of saponification, so it is only slightly alkaline. However, since cold process is made completely from scratch the pH levels are very high initially. Pigmented colors can withstand higher pH levels much better than dyes. The red and yellow soap dyes will not cause major color morphing, but we do recommend using our FUN Soap Colorants for cold process over our FD&C dyes. Please don’t hesitate to contact us here at Nature’s Garden if you have any thoughts, concerns, or questions! Make sure to check out all of our fantastic free recipes and classes, especially our soap classes! You can learn so many valuable things about the soap making process! Watch out for more Enlightened by Layla!