Monthly Archives: April 2014

Apr
30

Color Dispersion


This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, cold process soap, cold process soap colorant, cold process soap scents, Fragrance Oils, homemade soap, Natures Garden, soap colorants, Soap making supplies, soap oil properties, soaping terms and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

color dispersionColor Dispersion in Soap

This picture shows the same exact recipe using two different methods of color dispersion in soap. Once the soap was poured, we noticed that some of the colorant was still on the sides of the bowls instead of actually incorporated into the soap (as shown in the soap on the right).  In addition, we noticed concentrated pockets of colorant in this cut soap.   Mainly, it is the difference between hand stirring the colorants in verses stick blending the colorants in, and failure to scrape the sides of the bowls to incorporate all of the coloring.  Regardless of the method that you choose, there are distinct advantages and disadvantages. The key to knowing which method works best for you is knowing your soap recipe and the time that it allows you.

Color Dispersion in cold process soap making can be a tricky aspect. After you figure out your color scheme for your recipe and the technique as to how you are adding your color, it then comes down to the actual challenge.

Really there are three options to color dispersion in your soap. They are hand stirring the colorant into the batter with a spoon, stick blending the colorant in, or the combination of both. The correct decision relies on a few factors though. These factors are: your recipe, time, and the number of colorants you want to add.

Hand Stirring
The best advantage of hand stirring colorants into soap is that it does not speed up trace. This allows you the perfect fluid soap batter for accomplishing a multi color swirl in your soap. But, hand stirring the colorant into your soap batter is slightly more time consuming because you really have to stir for some time to get the colorant dispersed. So, this is where knowing your recipe and window of time, especially if you are using multiple colorants, comes into play.

You will also have to be ready to move. When hand stirring, you have to stir, and stir quickly to get the full color dispersion of the soap colorant. And, do not forget to have your spatula ready to clean the sides and rotate the soap from the bottom of the bowl to make sure all of the colorant is evenly dispersed.

However, not all colorants can be hand stirred. Some of the colorants do not disperse as well as others with this method. The examples of these types of colorants would be titanium dioxide and the ultramarines. Colorants like these often need to be stick blended in order to get the full color dispersion among all of the soap.

Stick Blending
Stick blending your colorants in soap batter is ideal for true color dispersion. But, with stick blending time is a major factor. Stick blending will speed up trace (or the saponification process) in your soap. If too much time elapses while stick blending your colorants into the batter; certain swirling techniques cannot be accomplished. This is because the soap batter will be too thick, especially if you are using more than two colors in your soap recipe.

Besides speeding up trace, there is another factor to consider. When using multiple soap colorants and stick blending you will have to quickly clean your stick blender in between colors. But, you do have a few options when it comes to this. Some soapers keep a small bowl of water by their coloring station to quickly clean their stick blender in between colors. And, some just stick blend their colors in the correct order, but gently tap the stick blender to remove as much colored batter as possible before moving on to the next color. For example if you are coloring your soap green and yellow; you would start by stick blending the yellow first. This is because the yellow color is the lightest, and then move to the green.

The Combo
For the situations where you want to use ultramarines which almost require a stick blend to get the best color dispersion, but you still want several other colors in your soap; you can combo the blend. You would start by stick blending the colorants that need it, and then move on to the hand stirred colorants. If the stick blended colorants become too thick, simply stir them by hand and the soap batter will thin out slightly (or enough to pour). Just remember, you must move quickly.

What this really all comes down to is testing. Through making various batches of soap, you will be able to find exactly which method of color dispersion is best for you and your soaping recipe. There really is no right or wrong answer as to which method to use. Each soap recipe will vary.

Natures Garden offers FUN Soap colorants for soap making.  We even carry multiple neon colors to really make your soap “come alive”.

Apr
29

Insulating Soap


This entry was posted in bath and body, bath and body fragrances, cold process soap, cold process soap scents, homemade soap, Natures Garden, soap ingredients, Soap making supplies, soap mold and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

insulating soap In an earlier blog post, we discussed how insulating soap to promote gel phase was a matter of personal choice. Whether you insulate or choose not to, your soap will still be soap.

When it comes to whether you choose to insulate or not, really there are only two factors that will change. The first is the amount of cure time. Due to the fact that the saponification process is slowed down by the prevention of gel phase, your soap may need extra cure time before use. On the other hand, promoting a full gel phase for your soap means an accelerated saponification process with a normal cure time. And, the second difference is an aesthetic one.

The finished look of your soap will differ slightly based upon whether you choose to prevent gel phase or encourage it. By preventing gel phase (sticking your molded soap in the fridge or freezer), your finished soap will have a matte look to it. By promoting gel phase, your finished soap will have a slight translucent, shiny look to it. Again, however, please remember regardless of which method you choose either method results with finished soap.

When making soap, it is important to remember that the gel phase occurs during the saponification process. While your soap is in the mold, the various soaping ingredients react with the lye mixture, and heat is used to help the acceleration of the whole saponification process. When choosing to promote gel phase during saponification, it can be accomplished through means of insulation.

Insulating your soap means wrapping the soap with various layers in an attempt to keep the heat within the soap. Because the saponification process is endothermic (meaning the process pulls heat from its surroundings), keeping the soap insulated is the best means to successfully promoting gel phase throughout your whole soap. It will also help to prevent a partial gel. If you remember, a partial gel is where the center of your soap achieves gel phase, but the outside areas do not. This typically occurs because the outside of the soap looses heat in a quicker fashion therefore inhibiting the ideal environment for a full gel phase to occur.

Through the means of insulation, you can provide your soap with its ideal environment (heat wise).  And, when it comes to insulation for your soap, there are many different items you can use.  These items would include: newspaper, cardboard, blankets, towels, etc.  Practically, you can use any layer type material that will keep the heat in the soap (but never aluminum foil).

Many soapers will use various items in combination such as: wrapping the soap with saran wrap (especially if the soap has a decorated top), then covering it with newspaper, surrounded by towels, and finally placed under a box. There really is no limit for insulation. And, many believe that over insulating can never be done. Remember the key to insulating, if you are choosing to promote the gel phase; is to keep as much heat in the soap as possible.

However, please note: If you are soaping a recipe that does contain sugar or dairy products, you may want to go a little on the lighter side of insulating due to the fact that these items in your recipe will increase heat during the saponification process. Extreme insulating in these examples may cause the ingredients to “burn”, possibly resulting in discoloration and an off smell in your finished soaps.  It can also cause your soap batter to begin to bubble out of your mold.  You do however have the choice of preventing the gel phase for these types of recipes, and sticking your molded soap in the fridge or freezer.

Apr
28

Happy Place Scent


This entry was posted in air freshening scents, aroma beads, candle fragrance oils, candle making supplies, candle scents, candle wax, candles, Fragrance Oils, homemade candles, hot scent throw, Natures Garden, scent throw, scented candles and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

happy place scentHome Sweet Home Fragrance Oil– Fragrance Oil Spotlight

Have you ever wondered where the phrase “home sweet home” originated? History has shown that in America during the 19th century there was a song titled no other then, Home Sweet Home. And, this phrase is also quite popular for many home décor items as well. So, no matter how far you travel, or how amazing your end destination is, there is always a piece of you that longs to be, home sweet home. This happy place scent is so soothing and inviting, you will want to kick those shoes off and sit in your favorite chair. This fragrance will not disappoint, but instead have you coming back for more. Home Sweet Home Fragrance Oil is a keeper!

What does Home Sweet Home smell like?

This fragrance oil by Natures Garden is a Yankee duplication. Spicy (cinnamon and clove) with rose and ylang ylang.

How do our customers use Home Sweet Home Fragrance Oil?

For those of you that are candle crafters or home scenters; our customers use this fragrance oil in their soy, palm, WOW, pillar of bliss, and Joy wax candles. This happy place scent has a very nice and strong throw in both hot and cold. As for other home scenting ideas; this Home Sweet Home fragrance has been used to make incense sticks and cones, aroma beads, smelly jellies, and potpourri. And, even more this fragrance oil can also be used in oil burners, reed diffusers, and odor refreshing sprays as well.

Unfortunately, on the bath and body end this happy place scent is not body safe so we DO NOT recommend this scent for body products.

Apr
28

Too Much Castor


This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, castor oil, cold process soap, cold process soap scents, Fragrance Oils, handmade soap, homemade soap, how to make cold process soap, Natures Garden, soap challenge, soap ingredients, Soap making supplies and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

too much castor

The following blog was written by a new employee of Natures Garden who is doing her best to learn the science and art of soap making.  Please take that into consideration before commenting on her experiences, successes, and yes…failures.

Hello everyone!

The other day I wrote a blog about how I figured out my own recipe and all the details of my soap. I was so very excited about this project. I did really well throughout the whole process and was happy with the outcome of my soap. My soap bars were gorgeous and I was  officially a successful soap maker!

Well, the following day, I was assigned a new project: to write another recipe from start to finish. This would include everything from ingredients, to scent, to color, whether or not to add sodium lactate or color stabilizer, the swirl technique (aka design), and the mold. We are talking about EVERYTHING! I said, OK, I can do that!

The only difference between this assignment and my last project was this time there was not going to be a double check. Yes, the last few times I embarked on this journey, my work was double checked. I am in training, and there are a lot of things you need to know about the soap making process and everything that comes along with it. With all of that being said, I felt confident I could do this…really! So off I went.

I figured out my recipe, gathered all of my ingredients, put on my safety gear, and prepped.

Once I melted all of my oils, put together my lye solution, emulsified and scented, I was ready to design. I placed my colors in their bowls, and I was ready for the in the pot swirl. If you have not noticed, I am fond of this technique! Everything was going smoothly!

I took the colored batter that I was using and plopped it into my main soap batter and began the swirling technique. And, let me just tell you, my soap looked beautiful. I couldn’t even get over how nicely it poured into the silicone loaf mold. I was excited!

Now this was on Friday so I had to play the waiting game all weekend. By Sunday night, I couldn’t wait to see my masterpiece. When Monday morning finally arrived, I was ready to unveil my homemade soap. I picked it up and started to the chopping block. Hmmm, this soap seemed a bit squishy. I thought this can’t be good.

Starting to work the soap out of the mold, I realized that now it seemed sticky. This was not at all what I was hoping for. Finally, I got the soap out of the mold, and proceeded to cut it. That was when the soap stuck to my knife…just great! Despite the fact that the colors were awesome and it smelled great, I had messed up somewhere.  My soap bars were tacky and very soft.

So, I checked my weights and percentages. Everything was good. Then, I had my recipe double checked by someone else. They pointed out their opinion of what the problem could be.  I had too much castor oil in my recipe. Oopsy! I had totally overlooked the frequently-held opinion that when making soap that contains  Castor Oil , you may want to stay at 8% or less castor oil in your formulation.   My addition was 20%.

In the end, I felt defeated, and was totally bummed! I did however, make a note to self: while Castor oil is good for the “bubbly” in your soap, my experience showed me that using too much castor oil may produce soap that is tacky and hard to remove from the mold.  In the future, if I want to produce a harder bar of soap, I may want to increase my percentages of oils that are known to produce harder bars of soap such as coconut oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil.

I predicted I was going to fail…and when I do, I do it right…lol.

So my epic failure is a lesson learned. And, even though I am hard on my little feelings, don’t be too hard on yourself for your mistakes. My advice to any new soapers: Turn setbacks into future achievements, and lessons to be taught to others so they don’t make the same boo boos.

Until next time, have a fabulous day!

Cindy

 

 

Apr
26

Angel Scent


This entry was posted in air freshening scents, bath and body, bath bombs, bath products, candle fragrance oils, candle making supplies, candle scents, cold process soap scents, Fragrance Oils, homemade candles, homemade soap, make candles, make your own soap, Natures Garden, Soap making supplies and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

angel scentAngel Wings Fragrance Oil– Fragrance Oil Spotlight

It is said that an angel is believed to be a guardian and protector for those of us here on Earth. They are what seems to be a mediator between Heaven and Earth with beautiful feathery wings, a golden halo, a gracious flowing robe, and a soft glow that surrounds them. Angelic and spiritually calming, Angel Wings Fragrance Oil is a scent that is sweet and heavenly. With notes of vanilla and the aroma of new born baby, this angel scent is simply otherworldly. This highly requested fragrance is a great addition to your product line.

What does Angel Wings Fragrance Oil smell like?
This fragrance oil by Natures Garden is a wonderful aroma embracing the softness of a new born baby and the creaminess of vanilla custard.

How do our customers use Angel Wings Fragrance Oil?

For candle makers and home scent crafters, this angel scent is divine. Angel Wings fragrance performed well in soy, palm, pillar, Joy, and WOW wax candles. This fragrance oils scent throw is wonderful in both the hot and cold throw. Some of our customers even use Angel Wings Fragrance Oil to scent their odor eliminator for the making of room sprays; absolutely loving the outcome. And, in additional many home scenters use this angel scent in their oil burners, reed diffusers, and aroma beads.

On the bath and body end, this graceful angel scent is used to make an array of body products. The usage rate for this scent oil is 5%, with a 3.4% vanillin content. So, therefore we highly recommend Vanilla White Color Stabilizer to help prevent soap discoloration in your finished products. This angel scent is used to make: body sprays, lotion sprays, melt and pour soaps, body butters, creamy lotions, shampoos, conditions, bath bombs, and roll-on perfumes. Finally, for those of you that are cold process soapers, this fragrance is AMAZING. Here are the official results: OMG! This fragrance is the most gorgeous baby powder scent. CP Phenomenal. Perfect Pour. No ricing, no acceleration. Discolors to a brown.

Apr
26

Gel Phase


This entry was posted in all natural, bath and body, bath products, cold process soap, cold process soap colorant, cold process soap scents, essential oil, fragrance and color, Fragrance Oils, homemade soap, Natures Garden, soap fragrances, soap ingredients, Soap making supplies, soap mold, soaping terms and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

inhibited gel phase soap In an earlier blog post, we briefly discussed insulation of cold process soap. Through insulating your soap, you are encouraging the best environment for the gel phase to occur during saponification. Keeping the soap evenly heated using insulation will prevent a partial gel from occurring. But, still there are no guarantees. Even with the best insulation, you may still end up with bars of soap that have partial gel evident.

So, what if you prevented the gel phase in your soap?

Although this is possible, it is still not guaranteed. It can be very tough to prevent the gel phase. But, there are some factors that need to be noted to help you in your quest to stop the gel phase. These factors are: the size of your mold, and the various ingredients in your recipe. The saponification process involves heat; it is the nature of the soaping beast. Choosing to eliminate the gel phase will change some elements to your soap and soaping process.

But, before we get to that information, let’s look at some specific reasons to prohibit the gel phase.

First, since you are decreasing the amount of heat that is in your soap, this will allow you to introduce certain soaping ingredients that normally would be finicky. Examples of these heat sensitive ingredients would be: dairy products, heat sensitive colorants; prone to morphing, and fragrances or essential oils with a low flashpoint.

Dairy Products
Soaping with ingredients such as creams, milks, and butters for example will provide your finished bars with rich, extra moisturizing elements. However, soaping with dairy products can be tricky. With the heat that is involved with the saponification process, there is a chance that dairy products will burn. This results in both discoloration and an off smell in your soap. By preventing the gel phase from occurring, you allow these ingredients a fighting chance in soap. And, you can even produce a creamier bar of finished soap.

Colorants
Whether you are deciding to go the natural route with herbs, or using colorants that you worry may morph; preventing gel phase allows the window of opportunity to stay open. Certain herbs discolor or darker from the saponification process. The same is true for some colorants that completely alter like deep purple to brown.

Now, for the colorants in the finished soap when the gel phase is eliminated: the bar colors are bolder and more vivid. Even if you choose not to color your soap batter, the elimination of the gel phase stops the darkening of the fats and oils in your recipe, allowing for a “whiter” finished bar.

Scenting Options
If you do not want to rebatch your soap recipe, preventing the gel phase in your cold process soap may allow you to scent your soap with low flashpoint oils without worrying that the saponification process will eliminate the scent. It is also possible for fragrance or essential oil scents to come through stronger in the soap because of the reduction of heat.

As for what preventing the gel phase means for your soaps, there are key points you should know. First, you must keep your molded soap chilled for the full 24 hours. Depending on your recipe, you may have to keep the soap chilled for an additional 24 hours as well.

Now, when you are ready to unmold your soap, it is crucial to let your molded soap reach room temperature before trying to slice it. Not allowing your soap to be at room temperature before cutting may result with your bars being brittle, and breaking apart as you slice them.

As for the saponification process, since you inhibit the gel phase, it will take your soaps longer to complete the saponification process. What this means is that the soap will need additional cure time before it will be ready to use.

So, whether you choose to insulate or prevent the gel phase, it is really up to personal discretion. Regardless of the method, the result is the same; a finished bar of soap. The only variables that change are the molding environment and the cure time.

Apr
25

Rose Fragrance


This entry was posted in air freshening scents, aroma beads, bath and body, bath and body fragrances, bath products, candle fragrance oils, candle making supplies, candle scents, cold process soap scents, Fragrance Oils, gel wax scents, homemade, melt and pour soap, Natures Garden, scent throw, Soap making supplies, Valentines Day and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

Rose FragranceFresh Cut Roses Fragrance Oil– Fragrance Oil Spotlight

Roses come in a variety of beautiful colors and sizes, but the rose scent always stays true.  Roses have always been a very popular gift to both give and receive too.  In fact, the top two holidays for roses are Mother’s Day and Valentine’s Day.  So, why not use this scent in your products. If you are looking for the perfect rose fragrance to scent in your homemade items, you have got to try Fresh Cut Roses. This true to life rose fragrance is incredible in bath products and candles.

What does Fresh Cut Roses Fragrance Oil smell like?

After searching many years for a true, fresh-cut rose scent, we have accomplished it!  Natures Garden’s Fresh cut roses fragrance oil is the truest fresh cut rose on the market! NG Original Fragrance and a Best Seller!

How do our customers use Fresh Cut Roses Fragrance Oil?

For candle crafters and home scenters; it is time to think and scent spring with this fragrance. Many of our customers use Rose fragrance oil in their soy, Palm, parasoy blends, Joy, Gel and Pillar of Bliss waxes. But, not only is this scent fresh and clean, customers attest that Fresh Cut Rose fragrance has phenomenal hot and cold scent throw! As for the home scenting realm, this aroma is just terrific, making your house smell so good. The performance is remarkable in aroma beads, diffusers, oil burners, and incense.

On the bath and body end of products, celebrate because this beautiful scent is one great seller! With a recommended usage rate of 5%, this fabulous fragrance is used to make: lotions, perfume oils, foaming body butters, melt and pour soaps, body scrubs, and body sprays. In fact, many of our customers state that their customers simply adore this fresh cut rose fragrance in the finished products. Finally, for those of you that are cold process soapers, this fragrance is very lovely. Here are the official results: Perfect Pour, no ricing, no acceleration, no discoloration, very strong scent retention. Soaped well.

Apr
24

Insulate Soap


This entry was posted in bath and body, bath products, cold process soap, homemade soap, make your own soap, Natures Garden, soap, soap ingredients, Soap making supplies, soap mold, wholesale supplies and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

insulate soap As soap crafters, there are hundreds of variances allotted to us that allow our soaps to be special. Maybe it is the combination of oils in your recipe, the process to which you soap, your unique scents, your particular decorating method, or really any number of things that makes your soap exclusive. Well, in this blog post, we are going to throw a new option into the mix.

To insulate or not to insulate that is the question.

As with many aspects of soap making; when it comes to insulation, it is really a personal preference.

Being new to soap making, a lot of research is involved. You read, read, and read some more in order to learn everything you can about soap making. Well, as many of us found, insulating is always advised.

The insulating step involves taking your freshly poured, molded soap, and surrounding it with layers. These layers help to keep the soap at an even heat while the batter goes through the saponification process. During the saponification process, as the lye reacts with the various soap making ingredients, soap (and glycerin) is produced. The process itself is an endothermic reaction, meaning that it absorbs heat from the surroundings.

This “heat stage” of soap making is commonly called the gel phase. During the gel phase, saponification works at an accelerated rate, hardening the fats of your recipe. This phase will also be the time where any discoloration of ingredients or colorants will occur from the heat.

Keeping the soap uniformly heated will prevent a partial gel from occurring. Not keeping the soap uniformly heated allows for the soap that is in the center of the mold to stay hot, while the soap on the outside loses heat rapidly. And, since the saponification process is endothermic, it needs to be able to draw heat from its surroundings. What this results in is an off colored look in the center of your soap, usually in an oval like shape. This shows that the center of the soap gelled, and the outside of the soap never reached gel phase.

Speaking in terms of soap, gel phase or not reaching gel phase does not harm the soap itself. The soap will still function after cure; it is only an aesthetic issue. So, it is for this reason that it is often believed that insulation is vital to an amazing looking bar of cold process soap. But, there is an alternative.

Lets look at the flip side.  If you do not want to insulate the heat in the soap, what would happen if you chilled the soap instead?

Chilling your molded soap would prevent the gel phase from occurring. This would be a handy trick of the trade for a few reasons. It should however, be noted though that in order for the gel phase prevention to occur, you need to be able to control the area. Operating out of a loaf mold for example, still allows enough soap in the middle for a partial gel to occur. You want to keep the size of the soap easily manageable for temperature reasons. Remember, because saponification deals with heat, while the lye and fats are reacting, heat will be present. To completely increase your chances of preventing the gel phase, you must minimize the area that needs chilled, aka use smaller molds.

Not insulating your soap, and instead placing your freshly molded soap into the fridge or freezer for 24 hours will help to prevent the gel phase from occurring. But, please note the size of your soap will directly determine whether the gel phase will occur or not.   This also rings true for the soaping ingredients that are in your recipe. Chilling your soap is not a guarantee, partial gelling can still transpire.

In closing, there is another option if you choose not to insulate your soap. There are benefits and drawbacks to chilling your soap. Stay tuned for a future blog posts discussing preventing gel phase and what the outcome will be.

 

Apr
23

Beach Fragrance


This entry was posted in air freshening scents, aroma beads, bath and body, bath bombs, bath products, body butter, candle fragrance oils, candle making supplies, candles, Fragrance Oils, gel wax scents, home scents, Natures Garden, Soap making supplies and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

beach fragranceMermaid Kisses Fragrance Oil Fragrance Oil Spotlight

Mermaids are something of a folklore.  And it is said that if a sailor saw one it meant they would never see land again.  This bittersweet story told of sailors so memorized and taken by the mermaid’s beauty, that they would jump ship just to meet her.  Well, this myth explains the mystery behind why men love this scent.  Mermaid Kisses Fragrance oil is very clean and ozonic scent with a hint of exotic floral.  The perfect beach fragrance for many homemade items, mermaid kisses is a sure winner!

What does Mermaid Kisses Fragrance Oil smell like?

When ocean mist, sea salt, and feminine florals combine; you’ll experience Mermaid Kisses Fragrance Oil by Natures Garden.  This fragrance begins with top notes of ocean mist, sea moss, and dewy cyclamen petals; followed by middle notes of geranium flower, water mint, and coriander seed; sitting on base notes of white cedarwood and earthy vetiver.  An NG Original Fragrance!

How do our customers use Mermaid Kisses Fragrance Oil?

For candle makers and home scenters; our customers use this beach fragrance in their soy, palm, gel, pillar of bliss, and WOW wax candles.  And, this scent has a very nice throw both hot and cold in candles.  As for home scenting ideas for products; this beach fragrance has been used to make incense sticks, cones, aroma beads, smelly jellies, and potpourri.  Mermaid Kisses fragrance oil can even be used in oil burners and as odor eliminator sprays as well.

On the bath and body end of things, the usage rate for this beach fragrance is 5%.  This fabulous scent is used to make:  melt and pour soaps, homemade lotions, bath bombs, sugar scrubs, body butters, perfumes, and body sprays.  And, for those of you that are cold process soapers, here are the official results: Slight acceleration, riced, no discoloration, do not discount water.

Apr
22

Rebatching Soap


This entry was posted in bath and body, bath and body fragrances, bath products, cold process soap, cold process soap colorant, cold process soap scents, Fragrance Oils, handmade soap, homemade, Natures Garden, soap ingredients, soap making recipes, Soap making supplies, soap mold and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

rebatching soap Whether you view rebatching as an art, a doorway for the addition of gentle ingredients, or a second chance for your soap, this method of soap making offers opportunity.

The term rebatching for soap simply means remaking soap.  This method would be very similar to melt and pour soap in that you are melting down soap that has already gone through the saponification process.  Rebatching is more intricate than melt and pour soap though.  Rebatching involves cold processed or hot processed soap bars that are melted down for specific reasons.

A common technique used in soap making, rebatching allows many soap making handcrafters the chance to rework their soap recipes, introduce delicate scents and herbs, as well as add ingredients or colors they may have missed the opportunity to add the first time.

Since rebatched soap has already gone through the saponification process, the rebatching steps do not involve lye.  This is why rebatching allows the opportunity to add those delicate soaping ingredients; without fear.  With the rebatching method, these ingredients; which normally would not survive the saponification process, now have the chance to add wonderful benefits to your finished bars of soap.

Although time consuming, the rebatch process is fairly easy to do.  To put it briefly, the rebatching process is finely grating the soap, then heating (sometimes with the addition of a liquid like water to help prevent burning).  There are a few different ways to introduce heat to the shredded soap.  These ways would include:  double boiler, microwave, and crock pot.  But, please advise: you must monitor the soap while it is heating because you never want to scorch the soap.  This may be slightly more difficult using the microwave approach.

Now, as the soap is heated and starts to liquefy; it will have a very thick gel like density.  Once the soap hits this consistency, any additives or scents are added and stirred in.  Once the soap is stirred well, it is then scooped into a mold, left to harden, and finally cut into slices.

So, now that you have an understanding as to what the method of rebatching is, we will shortly post a blog as to the various reasons to rebatch.  This post will also cover the benefits as well as the drawbacks of rebatching your soap.